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I didnt break it I was setting the time and went to put the pin out of the tensioner and the thing shot out like a 22. I cant help it was weak. give me a break tryna do the best i can.
 
I didnt break it I was setting the time and went to put the pin out of the tensioner and the thing shot out like a 22. I cant help it was weak. give me a break tryna do the best i can.

I feel that the issues you have been having with this car could have been solved for the price of a 30 pack and a trailer to a fellow DsMers garage for a check over. Of course, breaking and messing things up gives you a good learning process, I'm sure you won't make the same mistakes again.
 
I didnt break it I was setting the time and went to put the pin out of the tensioner and the thing shot out like a 22. I cant help it was weak. give me a break tryna do the best i can.

Nonononononono. I wasn't referring to you, bud. I was referring to this Talon and the previous owner. There are so many menial bolts broken everywhere it's ridiculous.
 
My bad bro, this is just my luck to hey if you happen to find a hydraulic tensioner it would be nice.
 
Nonononononono. I wasn't referring to you, bud. I was referring to this Talon and the previous owner. There are so many menial bolts broken everywhere it's ridiculous.

That was one of the reasons and pure JOY that I searched for a virgin DSM. While that I also means i have to deal with 180k of maintenance, the majority of prior work was done by a dealership which had a good crew as far as I can tell with the work actually done on the car. The the PO of your car snap bolts and just leave em? My last DSM had half the valve cover bolts stripped and simply missing while the exhaust manifold had half snapped and left in the head....
 
That was one of the reasons and pure JOY that I searched for a virgin DSM. While that I also means i have to deal with 180k of maintenance, the majority of prior work was done by a dealership which had a good crew as far as I can tell with the work actually done on the car. The the PO of your car snap bolts and just leave em? My last DSM had half the valve cover bolts stripped and simply missing while the exhaust manifold had half snapped and left in the head....

So far -

1 Rear Motor/Trans mount bolt to the Chassis
2 Top Headlight bolts
3 Bumper Bolts (Where they bolt to the fenders.)
1 Crank sprocket for the crank pulley. (No idea if I can extract that one.)
1 Exhaust manifold stud broken
1 Exhaust manifold stud missing entirely

THEN

1 Shifter cable bracket clip is missing
The starter harness is gone

-.-
 
So far -

1 Rear Motor/Trans mount bolt to the Chassis
2 Top Headlight bolts
3 Bumper Bolts (Where they bolt to the fenders.)
1 Crank sprocket for the crank pulley. (No idea if I can extract that one.)
1 Exhaust manifold stud broken
1 Exhaust manifold stud missing entirely

THEN

1 Shifter cable bracket clip is missing
The starter harness is gone

-.-

The only ones that sound "normal" would be the ones where the bumper mounts to the fenders. I'm assuming you mean the two on each side right above the turn signals. I had my passenger side rust and snap, would extract. I ended up drilling out an replacing with new nuts and bolts. I welded the nuts to where the original threaded holes were. Now I have SS bolts with antiseize to keep from having the future issue.
 
Anybody change a throw out bearing yet? Hard?

Seeing as how I just installed my trans - yes.

Trans has to come down. I have 2 spare TOB's you can have.
The only ones that sound "normal" would be the ones where the bumper mounts to the fenders. I'm assuming you mean the two on each side right above the turn signals. I had my passenger side rust and snap, would extract. I ended up drilling out an replacing with new nuts and bolts. I welded the nuts to where the original threaded holes were. Now I have SS bolts with antiseize to keep from having the future issue.

Those would be the ones. I don't know how I'll address them. Drill them out and simply use the bolt-nut method most likely. Don't have the patience to weld on new nuts. Hah.
 
Anybody change a throw out bearing yet? Hard?

It can be done in a weekend, easy... if you haven't changed the clutch and this os your dd I would consider replacing that while I was at it (or have one that can be returnednon hand just in case) but if the funds are available.

A friend and a tranny jack is always a great help.

Packed with some good grease.
 
Nonononononono. I wasn't referring to you, bud. I was referring to this Talon and the previous owner. There are so many menial bolts broken everywhere it's ridiculous.

That wasnt me man I tried getting a screw extractor in there but it was worthless. Guy before he did all that mess
 
Seeing as how I just installed my trans - yes.

Trans has to come down. I have 2 spare TOB's you can have.


Those would be the ones. I don't know how I'll address them. Drill them out and simply use the bolt-nut method most likely. Don't have the patience to weld on new nuts. Hah.

The only bolt that I would recommend either welding or at least jbwelding I the front most bolt in the drives side. There is a big mess of electronics there that makes things a bi*** to get any tools or even you hand too on top. The passenger side I easy as it is just the side mount which may already be removed. I used my mig from HF for my quick welds, nobody will ever see them.
 
The only bolt that I would recommend either welding or at least jbwelding I the front most bolt in the drives side. There is a big mess of electronics there that makes things a bi*** to get any tools or even you hand too on top. The passenger side I easy as it is just the side mount which may already be removed. I used my mig from HF for my quick welds, nobody will ever see them.

Indeed. I haven't decided on my approach yet - then again I found them 10 minutes before I quit working on it. I'll decide today. Maybe look into some quick-release latches. Who knows. What I do know is that I get to do lots of drilling when I get home -facepalm-

Anyway, she's closer. At least the engine and trans are in.
 
I bought one off of here last night. Still cheaper than a new one.

The pin in it? I think alex knows a better way to tighten the tensioner down without a vise...... only way I know is to SLOWLY tighten. Tighten, wait, tighten, wait method...
 
Well finally got a chance to tinker on the car some more.

Built a new boost leak tester and started searching around. The PO was getting a CEL and some weird throttle response at higher rpms which he thought might be boost leaks but didn't know how to check them. Searching around it seems my BISS oring was bad a well as the injector seals which are hard as a rock (factory seals after 180k). Fixed the BISS screw with an oring from the upper gasket kit but looks like a trip to Home Depot Racing is in order to get some new injector seals.

It has become quite obvious that the car needs a solid run through for maintenance as the PO didn't follow up in as much detail as the first few owners did.

Also, a new thermostat and radiator cap solved my overheating problem which makes me much more comfortable. Also got the tie rod and bellows back on so it is down on all fours again. Just a few more little fixes and an alignment an hopefully I can finish the clutch breakin so I can put this thing through the ringer.
 
Well finally got a chance to tinker on the car some more.

Built a new boost leak tester and started searching around. The PO was getting a CEL and some weird throttle response at higher rpms which he thought might be boost leaks but didn't know how to check them. Searching around it seems my BISS oring was bad a well as the injector seals which are hard as a rock (factory seals after 180k). Fixed the BISS screw with an oring from the upper gasket kit but looks like a trip to Home Depot Racing is in order to get some new injector seals.

It has become quite obvious that the car needs a solid run through for maintenance as the PO didn't follow up in as much detail as the first few owners did.

Also, a new thermostat and radiator cap solved my overheating problem which makes me much more comfortable. Also got the tie rod and bellows back on so it is down on all fours again. Just a few more little fixes and an alignment an hopefully I can finish the clutch breakin so I can put this thing through the ringer.

Going with the Rubber Neoprene Grommet setup?
 
Going with the Rubber Neoprene Grommet setup?

That's what I'm rocking on my 880's currently, haven't had a problem at all. My FIC 1150's that'll be here monday will have good seals though. Still can't beat lower insulators for 6 bucks ;)
 
That's what I'm rocking on my 880's currently, haven't had a problem at all. My FIC 1150's that'll be here monday will have good seals though. Still can't beat lower insulators for 6 bucks ;)

Entirely agree. That's what I went and picked up yesterday. I personally feel that they seal better than the OE seals.
 
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