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Any tips or hidden secrets on replacing a rack & pinion on a 1gB AWD?

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DROOPY209

15+ Year Contributor
493
4
Jun 23, 2004
NorCal, California
I already searched, I know I have to take off the wheels, take out the sway bar out completely, I have to drain the fluids out of the transfer case, drop the transfer case, drain the fluids out of the ps system, and take out the rack & pinion assembly out the drivers side of the car.

For those of you that have changed out the rack & pinion on a 1g AWD, are there any tips, hints, or secrets on how to do this?

Should the car be on a completely flat spot or can I do this on my driveway with an incline?

Do I have to drop the downpipe as well?

How long did it take you?

The VFAQ's said it would take between 6-8 hours, is this true?
 
I did this install last week and found it was rather quick and easy. First find a level ground, there is less of a chance that the car will roll. Loosen the lugs on the front wheels then raise the car and securely support on jack stands. Rember to block the rear wheels. Remover the wheels after the vehicle is safely secured on the jack stands. Now drain all the fluid from the power steering system. I strained some of my fluid through a coffee filter the see if there were metal flakes. I had none, if there where it is recomended to replace power steering pump. While the system is draining remove the outter tie rod ends from the steering knuckle. Drian the fluid from the transfer case. This is a good time to remove the downpipe. Once the transfer case is empty remove it carefully. Remove the the two hoses from the top of the steering gear and the bolt that hold the steering gear to the steering column. Remove the two brackets holding the steering gear to the subframe and lower the rack. The job should take between three and five hours.
Hope this helps.
 
Thank you for the advice. Thanx for clearing that up, I wasn't sure if I needed to remove the downpipe or not. I'm glad to hear that it didn't take you 8 hours like the VFAQ's says it would.

I'm pretty sure that I don't have any metal flakes in the system.

I guess I'm gunna have to change this out on the street, so that my car is on level ground and all.

Did you remove your sway bar through the drivers side or the passengers side of the car?

Did you also remove your rack & pinion assembly through your drivers side or passengers side?
 
you dont need to drain the transfer case to take it off. once it comes off slide it out of the driveshaft and keep that end higher so fluid will not come out, or you can keep the driveshaft in it and lay it on the ground. Either way just trying to save you a little bit of time and some money, not needing to fill the transfer case back up unless ofcoarse you havent ever changed the fluid in which case I would go ahead and do if you havent yet. good luck on your install. I removed my sway bar from the drivers side, once the DP and TC are out of the way its pretty easy to get it out of there, just some wiggling.
 
I replaced everything while I had mine apart. I tried not to dump my tc fluid but that wasn't happening. Just easier to drain it in my opinion. I also had my lower control arms off so I could just drop everything from the bottom, even the subframe came out for a coat of rustolium.

You should be able to remove the steering gear and sway bar from the driver's side.
 
Kool, I changed the TC fluid about 10k miles ago, so it should still be good. I'll try not to drain the fluid in the TC unless I really really have to.

Downpipe is only 2 nuts, so that will be fast.

How much fluid is there in the PS system?
 
just a verry inportant heads up before you put your new rack in pull on one of the inner tie rod ends to make it fully extended then push it all the way back tell it won't go back into the rack any more while do this. make sure to count how many full turns the out put shaft spins then devide that by two and pull the same inner tie rod and pull it out that number. that will help you center out your sterring wheel but you will have to take it to a Allinment shop to fine tune Your Toe spec on your car which centers your steering wheel. I know I am a Allinment specialist and If you don't center up the rack before you put it in There will not be enough adjustment in the outer-tie rods to ajust the Toe setting and your steering wheel will be off center and you will start to show toe whear on your tires.
 
91awd said:
just a verry inportant heads up before you put your new rack in pull on one of the inner tie rod ends to make it fully extended then push it all the way back tell it won't go back into the rack any more while do this. make sure to count how many full turns the out put shaft spins then devide that by two and pull the same inner tie rod and pull it out that number. that will help you center out your sterring wheel but you will have to take it to a Allinment shop to fine tune Your Toe spec on your car which centers your steering wheel. I know I am a Allinment specialist and If you don't center up the rack before you put it in There will not be enough adjustment in the outer-tie rods to ajust the Toe setting and your steering wheel will be off center and you will start to show toe whear on your tires.


So, basically, I just tighten up the tie rod ends and count the turns then loosen up the tie rod ends the same count of turns to make sure that the rack and pinion is centered correct?

What do you mean by the output shaft? Is that the part that hooks up to the steering wheel? Do I count the full amount of turns it makes while I pull on the tie rod end out, then devide by 2 and center it?

thank you for the advice, I never knew I had to do that.
 
yes the output shaft is the 1/2 inch round thing that as been cross cut up and down that the sterring nuckle goes to it. and do not install the outer tie rods untell you have the rack in or you will have to fight it to. the new rack should just come with the inner tie rod ends those are the long rods that stick out of the rack and the outers are the rods that screw on the inner tie rods
 
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