any suggestions?

[cheepyclipse]

I just bought a 93 1g 2.0 n/t from a kind of shady looking dealer out of town 2 weeks ago, "as is" ....supposedly it had a computer problem "it cranks but wont start". Being pretty experienced with ohc motors, I immediatly suspected the timing belt. well it looked intact and tensioned properly from the top cover. so i offered the guy 700 and came back with a dolly the next day. (how bad could it be?) unfortunatly when i got home with it 80 miles away, charged the battery and started it, it sounded like the crankcase was full of wrenches instead of oil. teardown = two valves missing, giant hole in number four cylinder,
timing belt remarkably new looking except for being completly stripped at the crank sprocket. damn.
so what the heck, i go out of town and buy a used motor since mine isnt even good for a core.
install motor - runs but dead cyl #4
so what the heck, i go out of town, convince the salvage yard operator that 0 compression on a cylinder cant be caused by a bad computer(finally), and get one that i have actually seen run (with starting fluid)
install motor -runs great!

except, idle surge when cold
burning a little oil (rings?)
oil pressure falls off at normal operating temp at idle

I plan on combustion chamber cleaning, oil flush, oil additive, use better oil, clean TB ISC etc

I HAVE: removed thermostat, (better Oil press resulted in cold eng and idle surge though)

cleaned, checked biss, and checked for vac leaks with carbcleanr

of course i did the timing belt when i put it in

oh yeah and the tranny was bad too i had to get 1 of those

I was wondering if the oil filter housing i have is the same as those equipped with an oil cooler (turbo) because i know that this high mileage motor could benefit from cooler oil

any suggestions, advice, flaming appreciated thanx

 

[cheepyclipse]

ttb

 

[cheepyclipse]

didnt know i wasnt supposed to bump..oops

well I did a little bit more reading and decided the oil pressure is probably normal to fair (midway between zero and first mark idling at operating temp) but will install another gauge tomorrow to be sure, and the oil filter housing does have plugs in it for a cooler but i dont know which to use for the supply/return, also If any body could suggest a particular aftermarket cooler and or hose/adapter setup that would be appreciated as well
thank you

P.S. 4G63 junkyard motor-$500

93 eclipse as is-$700

chop smashed muffler off and replace w/2" pipe-free

-proving to my wife that "it will run".........priceless

 

[igopoopy]

ouch
i paid 200 for mine but i had to rebuild the head

i had idle surge but changing the timeing fixed it

 

[cheepyclipse]

I was just looking up the proper procedure to set base timing and base idle and got side tracked. i did move my closed throttle switch a little out and that reduced the symtoms considerably though.

oh yeah, i cleaned the tb didnt completly disassemble though and i may have to block off the fiav b/c my car may not have any wax any more. ha

I think when i removed build up from the throttle plate it left room for air to get past until i unscrewed the stop a little
of course its supposed to have a little play built in isn't it? in other words the throttle plate closes on the switch, not the bore of the TB right, and the ISC accts for the difference?

now symtoms are

idle under normal temp: surge 12 to 15

at first line: rpm difference in surge minimizes

almost mid temp gauge: POOF idle drops to 1000,

middle of gauge: another obvious drop to 800ish

driveability is great, but i can overcool the motor on the highway and send it into idle surge again at a stop

so is this looking like a definate fast idle air valve problem or what?
i really need to get some gauges on this thing tomorrow
just wish i had a logger!