Clutch GSX
15+ Year Contributor
- 347
- 1
- Nov 28, 2006
-
Denver,
Colorado
Got another update. I replaced the fuel pump with the walbro. It was pretty easy. I cleaned and painted the fuel cover. It was in horrible shape. The rust must have been 1/8" thick. I just painted over it since you cant order just the cover from the dealer. I got a new rubber fuel outlet hose from the dealer since I destroyed the one on the car trying to get it off (That little rubber hose is $60!). One side attaches to the pump outlet and the other end hooks up to my new SS fuel line that runs the length of the car and hooks up to the fuel filter. I installed the new fuel filter and feed line. I had to route the SS fuel line around the cross member since it was too thick to go through the stock route. I think I've seen some people use the stock route but I have no idea how they managed to fit it through there.
I removed the old motor mounts and installed the new prothane ones, painted the mounts and some brackets.
I cleaned and painted the valve cover flat black. Looks pretty sick.
I cleaned, tapped the threads, painted and installed the AC bracket, AC compressor, alternator bracket, power steering bracket and the alternator. I installed the water pipe and oil dipstick tube.
I cleaned the transmission and installed the new pivot ball and clip. I reused the throw out beariung since the one that came with my clutch was not OEM and I was told that the tranny has only a few dyno miles on it. I cleaned the clutch system including the resevoir and slave cylinder. I ran my new SS clutch line from the master to the slave and found a grommet that worked perfectly in the original bracket (under the fuse box) to run the new SS line through.
I got my 1G Throttle body bored and rebuilt from throttlebodys.com. Looks awesome and turnaround time was fantastic.
I broke one of the nipples off of my brand new AFPR when I dropped my fuel rail. Stupid me! I was pissed. So I had to get a new one from sxperformance. Should be here by tues.
I removed my dash. It wasn't too hard getting out since my expectations were that is was going to be a real pita. I have a feeling putting it back in is going to be worse. I know I'm going to forget some connections and bolts. I'm not going to think about it right now.
I removed a lot of the sound deadening material in the floor of the car. Just have a little more to go then I get to scrub all the sticky shit off! Lucky me. I'm going to research a cheaper alternative to Dynamat. Anyone had any luck with anything? I've heard to go to the roofing section of lowes and buy some stuff that does the same sort of thing. Idk.
I put on the thermo housing with all the plugs. The bigger plugs are part number MS661162 and the plug for the small port on the back is MD014929. I put the water temp sensor in the wrong place with a bunch of thread sealant and that thing would NOT come off! I had to buy a new sensor and just leave the old one in there. The correct spot is at the bottom next to the gauge sender unit.
So I opened my STM battery relocation kit and had one hell of a time figuring out what the hell to do since it came with no directions or diagram and I haven't wired anything before. I spent 2 full days on tuners trying to figure everything out. I came to the conclusion that the STM kit is crap. They provide two 250A breakers (no fuses) to protect the 4ga wires and the starter. 4ga wire can only handle about 135A before it ignites so the 250A circuit breakers wont do crap and my car could easily start on fire! This is not only stupid but a serious safety problem. Another reason the breaker is a bad idea is that breakers take a longer time to trip than fuses and if there was a serious electrical surge the breaker wouldnt trip in time to save anything. Just dumb. So I'm going to try to return it or sell it and make my own kit. I still need to research more on what exactly to buy but I have the general idea.
I ordered all new bolts, washers, and nuts for my suspension since they are all rusted and corroded to hell. Should look real nice once they are on. I'm saving that until way later when I put on my new coilovers and suspension bushings. I'm focusing on the engine first.
I took the 7 bolt off the hoist. There wasn't much room to work with where I wanted to store it so I had to keep one of the leveraging legs up on the hoist while I was lowering the engine. NOT a good idea. I was standing on the opposite side to keep the hoist on the ground and I had my friend push the hoist into place. I didn't tell him to go slowly and he pushed real hard and the engine swung out and I wasn't heavy enough to keep it down. The hoist tipped and the engine came crashing down. Luckily the only damage was a pipe to my home's water softener on the side of the house broke and one of the transfer case bolts bent. I was expecting a lot more damage. I finally got it in place after spilling oil and coolant everywhere.
I had a broken off pcv nipple in my intake manifold that was extremely hard to get out. I took a bolt extractor to it with no luck. I used this freezing liquid stuff then took a torch to it and hammered the hell out of it. I attached the bolt extractor to a drill. Nothing. I then tried hammering a flat head screwdriver into it and I ended up taking a decent sized chunk out of the manifold, but I got it out! Now I'm looking for a welder to weld the new nipple in there and fill the hole I made.
It's taking a long time but I have never done any of this before and learning as I go so I think I'm making decent progress. All this in less than two weeks. And it's been just under 2 months since my car went up on the jack stands. Keep in mind I'm unemployed so that helps. It's crazy to think that less than three years ago I didn't even know how to change my oil!
Next is installing fuel rail/injectors, intake mani (after it's fixed), putting the new block on the hoist (legs down this time), installing the starter bracket, flywheel, clutch, PP, and tranny. I also need to run as much wiring as I can before the engine goes in. I'm a total newb with wiring so this might take a while. I have three gauges (EGT, Boost, and Oil pressure), Link V3, battery relocation kit, fuel pump rewire, Innovative LC-1, 1G CAS, and I hear you have to extend some wires with the swap. Should be fun.
I also need to figure out how to do the water lines to my GT35R and maybe figure out a custom kit for it.
Check back in a week or so for a new update! Hopefully.
I removed the old motor mounts and installed the new prothane ones, painted the mounts and some brackets.
I cleaned and painted the valve cover flat black. Looks pretty sick.
I cleaned, tapped the threads, painted and installed the AC bracket, AC compressor, alternator bracket, power steering bracket and the alternator. I installed the water pipe and oil dipstick tube.
I cleaned the transmission and installed the new pivot ball and clip. I reused the throw out beariung since the one that came with my clutch was not OEM and I was told that the tranny has only a few dyno miles on it. I cleaned the clutch system including the resevoir and slave cylinder. I ran my new SS clutch line from the master to the slave and found a grommet that worked perfectly in the original bracket (under the fuse box) to run the new SS line through.
I got my 1G Throttle body bored and rebuilt from throttlebodys.com. Looks awesome and turnaround time was fantastic.
I broke one of the nipples off of my brand new AFPR when I dropped my fuel rail. Stupid me! I was pissed. So I had to get a new one from sxperformance. Should be here by tues.
I removed my dash. It wasn't too hard getting out since my expectations were that is was going to be a real pita. I have a feeling putting it back in is going to be worse. I know I'm going to forget some connections and bolts. I'm not going to think about it right now.
I removed a lot of the sound deadening material in the floor of the car. Just have a little more to go then I get to scrub all the sticky shit off! Lucky me. I'm going to research a cheaper alternative to Dynamat. Anyone had any luck with anything? I've heard to go to the roofing section of lowes and buy some stuff that does the same sort of thing. Idk.
I put on the thermo housing with all the plugs. The bigger plugs are part number MS661162 and the plug for the small port on the back is MD014929. I put the water temp sensor in the wrong place with a bunch of thread sealant and that thing would NOT come off! I had to buy a new sensor and just leave the old one in there. The correct spot is at the bottom next to the gauge sender unit.
So I opened my STM battery relocation kit and had one hell of a time figuring out what the hell to do since it came with no directions or diagram and I haven't wired anything before. I spent 2 full days on tuners trying to figure everything out. I came to the conclusion that the STM kit is crap. They provide two 250A breakers (no fuses) to protect the 4ga wires and the starter. 4ga wire can only handle about 135A before it ignites so the 250A circuit breakers wont do crap and my car could easily start on fire! This is not only stupid but a serious safety problem. Another reason the breaker is a bad idea is that breakers take a longer time to trip than fuses and if there was a serious electrical surge the breaker wouldnt trip in time to save anything. Just dumb. So I'm going to try to return it or sell it and make my own kit. I still need to research more on what exactly to buy but I have the general idea.
I ordered all new bolts, washers, and nuts for my suspension since they are all rusted and corroded to hell. Should look real nice once they are on. I'm saving that until way later when I put on my new coilovers and suspension bushings. I'm focusing on the engine first.
I took the 7 bolt off the hoist. There wasn't much room to work with where I wanted to store it so I had to keep one of the leveraging legs up on the hoist while I was lowering the engine. NOT a good idea. I was standing on the opposite side to keep the hoist on the ground and I had my friend push the hoist into place. I didn't tell him to go slowly and he pushed real hard and the engine swung out and I wasn't heavy enough to keep it down. The hoist tipped and the engine came crashing down. Luckily the only damage was a pipe to my home's water softener on the side of the house broke and one of the transfer case bolts bent. I was expecting a lot more damage. I finally got it in place after spilling oil and coolant everywhere.
I had a broken off pcv nipple in my intake manifold that was extremely hard to get out. I took a bolt extractor to it with no luck. I used this freezing liquid stuff then took a torch to it and hammered the hell out of it. I attached the bolt extractor to a drill. Nothing. I then tried hammering a flat head screwdriver into it and I ended up taking a decent sized chunk out of the manifold, but I got it out! Now I'm looking for a welder to weld the new nipple in there and fill the hole I made.
It's taking a long time but I have never done any of this before and learning as I go so I think I'm making decent progress. All this in less than two weeks. And it's been just under 2 months since my car went up on the jack stands. Keep in mind I'm unemployed so that helps. It's crazy to think that less than three years ago I didn't even know how to change my oil!
Next is installing fuel rail/injectors, intake mani (after it's fixed), putting the new block on the hoist (legs down this time), installing the starter bracket, flywheel, clutch, PP, and tranny. I also need to run as much wiring as I can before the engine goes in. I'm a total newb with wiring so this might take a while. I have three gauges (EGT, Boost, and Oil pressure), Link V3, battery relocation kit, fuel pump rewire, Innovative LC-1, 1G CAS, and I hear you have to extend some wires with the swap. Should be fun.
I also need to figure out how to do the water lines to my GT35R and maybe figure out a custom kit for it.
Check back in a week or so for a new update! Hopefully.
I want to cruise like I'm in a Lexus. 
