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Another turbo conversion...

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thjones3

Probationary Member
20
0
Sep 1, 2006
Reidsville, North Carolina
I can't post in the turbo section because I'm a newb:cry: . So here it goes....:thumb:

I was going to wait until I started my turbo build-up on my 97 avenger before I started a thread on it. However, there are so many knowledgeble people on this site, I am hoping that your input will help me avoid buying crappy parts and making avoidable mistakes. My intention is to make this thread go from concept to "finished" product over a period of several months probably.

I started by reading as many articles as I could, including Maximum Boost. Like many DSMers, I am trying to follow along the lines of the <$1000 turbo setup. I am finding that as I go, I am going to spend more money upfront to prevent spending more money later. My goals are to run 7-8 psi on stock injectors initially, so that I can learn to tune my car properly (and to save $$$:shhh: ). Later down the road, I would like to step it up to 300+hp. Ok, enough of that. Here's the parts list so far...

PTE .50 trim Turbo - purchased
Turbo Oiling Kit - purchased
Turbo manifold
Gasket set
Tensioner
Timing Belt
AF/X Underdrive Pulley
SMIC - purchased
IC Piping
3" Exhaust
Walbro 225 lpm Fuel Pump
12:1 FMU
Zeitronix Wideband O2 - purchased
Oil Pressure Gauge
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Dash Mounting Bezel
Forged 8.8:1 Pistons
Forged Connecting Rods
1g BOV - purchased
ARP Headstuds
Water Pump
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
B&M Short Throw Shifter
K&N Filter
180* Thermostat
Fuel Cut Defender (FCD)
Silicon Vacuum Hose Kit

What do you think I should change/delete/or add?
 
Is this a avenger with a 4g63 going in it or not? If not you might get some flaming from being on the wrong board.
 
No, I have the 420a, which is the same motor as the N/A Eclipse. The main reason I posted it on this board was because of the volume of members/activity. Not to mention DSM was a joint venture between Mitsubishi AND Dodge;) Hopefully, no one will run me off because my car isn't the same model as most on this board, although they are mechanically the same.:cool:
 
Just out of curiosity why don't you go with a FMIC? You seem to have aspirations of going bigger later, and even wrote the forged pistions and rods. You will already be fabbing up the intercooler pipes for the smic and figure you can buy a intercooler core on ebay for about $200.

Just something to think about when it comes to spending money on gauges, short shifters. and underdrive pulley right off the bat.

P.S. Don't forget the boost guage
 
Well, you're off to a great start, because apparently you've done some research..

BUt my main question to you is: WHo is going to install all this for you? Are you mechanically inclined enough to rebuild a motor with forged units? How about swap the motor in? Instal the turbo kit?

Before you spend all the money on these items, make sure know it's not cakewalk for most these things. If you need someone else to do it, a professional at that, then thats even MORE money..

Good luck though.
 
Thanks for your input:thumb:

BigRand, I probably should have gone FMIC right off the bat, but I didn't to save $$$. I only have $25 in my SMIC and I can hopefully reuse some of the IC piping down the road. OTOH, I only have $25 in it, so I could sell it and go FMIC. I won't install the IC until I get the motor built, so I will wait till then to decide (based on how the budget looks;) ).

Blitzeclips, thankfully I do have the mechanical inclination and resources for this project, because there is no way I could afford to pay someone else to do it:p . I am a mechanical engineer by trade and my father is a ferrari/lambo mechanic if that tells you anything. I'm sure that I will run into snaffu's during my buildup, but that's why all you DSM experts hang around, right?;)
 
I would ditch the underdrive pulley, and shortshifter until the rebuild. and go with the fmic If I were you. the underdrive pulley will probably be easier to install once the motor is out of the car, and the shortshifter can be done at anytime.

Also I would go with a $20 mechanical fuel pressure gauge that goes in the engine bay.

I think it would cost u less in the long run. But its my .02.
 
I probably should clarify...the timing belt broke and bent all my intake valves. I also had a bad leak at the rear main seal, so I am just going to pull the motor and do all the work while it is out. You are right, the shortshifter is not a "must have" part, it's just on my wish list:D . I plan on putting the fuel pressure gauge in the dash so I could read it at WOT too. Do you think it would be better placed in the engine bay?

FMIC>UDP>shortshifter:thumb:
 
thjones3 said:
I probably should clarify...the timing belt broke and bent all my intake valves. I also had a bad leak at the rear main seal, so I am just going to pull the motor and do all the work while it is out. You are right, the shortshifter is not a "must have" part, it's just on my wish list:D . I plan on putting the fuel pressure gauge in the dash so I could read it at WOT too. Do you think it would be better placed in the engine bay?

FMIC>UDP>shortshifter:thumb:


Well for the fuel pressure gauge you dont' want a mechanical guage running anywhere in the cabin of the car.

So its either an electric gauge (which costs more), or a mechanical gauge in the engine bay.


Another thing, just remember this is your car so however you want to spend your money is your choice, so I just wanted to say that I wasn't right about your shortshifter, I was making a suggestion, I think we can all agree its about pesonal taste when it comes to modding cars, and when it comes right down to it your going to do what you want. So thanks for agreeing with me.
 
If you haven't done so recently, then while you've got the car apart and are changing the fuel pump, you might as well change the fuel filter too.

IMO if you are going to have the motor built before you boost it, but are planning on running higher boost later on, decide what you would like to use for fuel management now. I would say if you want to go with MSnS or the hahn portfueler, then stick with the 12:1 fmu for now. However, if you are planning on using the SFMU for when you raise the boost, I would pick it up now and completely forget about the fmu.

The downside to this is it will cost you about $400 for sfmu, fuel lines and fittings, as opposed to $100 or less for an fmu. If you would like to use the sfmu, there is a great diagram over on 2gnt.com that shows exactly how to set it up and lists part numbers of what you need.

Lastly if you do decide you want to use an sfmu, then use a -6an return line and not a -4an return line or you will have trouble lowering your fuel pressures once you upgrade injectors down the line.

Example I just installed 30 # accels, my ideal idle fuel pressure is around 20-22 psi but cannot get it below 28 with my -4an return line

Oh and I'm assuming setup of the fuel system is the same as in the eclipse, I believe it is but am not sure.
 
Good points regarding the FMU vs. SFMU:thumb: After looking a the price of megasquirt or portfuelerOMG , I think I had better pick up a SFMU for future fuel management. I will have to do some more research on it, but I think the SFMU and SAFC II is a popular combination; along with larger injectors of course. Thanks for the SFMU tuning tips:thumb:
 
thjones3 said:
Good points regarding the FMU vs. SFMU:thumb: After looking a the price of megasquirt or portfuelerOMG , I think I had better pick up a SFMU for future fuel management. I will have to do some more research on it, but I think the SFMU and SAFC II is a popular combination; along with larger injectors of course. Thanks for the SFMU tuning tips:thumb:

From what I have read, the SAFC isn't really useful on our cars except to adjust fp when in vaccuum, once in boost apparently you can't change anything. So until you upgrade injectors where you are having idle problems, then you won't need it. People have run up to 450cc injectors with just sfmu no safc, however, others have not been able to get their car to idle with 440 or 450cc injectors without an safc. The largest injectors I've seen anyone use with sfmu and safc is 550's.
 
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