Anatomy of an HKS SSQV

[DSMvroom]

For those that are curious, such as myself . . .

That's the best I could find on how it works. If anyone has more, please post! I know how most other BOVs work, but am particularly curious about the SSQV (maybe I'm thinking of buying one )

I'm sure most us know already about its push/pull type, etc. but can anyone provide a bigger/better diagram of its cut away? I'm surprised I wasn't able to find a thread on its anatomy.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

once youve taken it apart you realize its actually quite simple and not as complicated as people think.

 

[gsxAWDdsm692]

I think I'm gonna get one of them and get rid of my Greddy Type-RS.

Short route fmic piping with GM MAF woooooo!

 

[skipdownstairs]

I used to own one thought it was cool but the noise it makes after driving it for a while it got annoying so I took it off and put a Tial 50mm BOV on, much better and no squeaky noises just a loud whoosh of air when it releases. Don't fool around buy an American part go Tial all the way!

 

[JrCRXHF]

I have 2 of them.

One on my honda CRX

The other on my Laser RS


The wife likes the way the sound. So i was like ok sure we can get that BOV because they work good too.

 

[marcmsj]

Good thing about them is that they don't leak, the more boost you run, the tighter the seal is.

 

[gsxAWDdsm692]

Good thing about them is that they don't leak, the more boost you run, the tighter the seal is.

Yea, pull type are better against leaking then push type.

 

[Mr Peepers]

I took one apart recently, but sadly no pics and it is now on my friend's car.

As probably seen in the diagram, it's a pull type with a large plunger that can freely slide over a small one. The small one opens a certain amount, then starts pulling the larger one open with it. From my reasoning, it is similar to trying to get Garfield unstuck from your window.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You can either pull straight up on the suction cups, or lift up the edge and it will immediately let free. Much less force required when you create a small leak first.

The interesting thing IMO was the diaphragm itself. It has a valve in the center similar to the shock on a screen door; you can open it quickly one way, but the other way it slowly bleeds off air as it closes. This is the same type of valving inside a shock for a car. What this does is let both sides of the diaphragm quickly reach the same pressure, even when the nipple is only on one side, so no force acts against the plunger which is naturally forced closed by boost. Once the throttle plate closes it creates a a vacuum on the side with the nipple. The valving separating the two sides of the diaphragm keeps one side from letting out all the pressure right away, creating a pressure difference that quickly pulls the plunger open. The pressure will eventually equalize again and the plunger will close with the springs help.

The one in your diagram looks to be the old version with an adjustment screw. The new one (at least the one I had) has no adjustment screw since it will never leak anyway.


The pdf from their site:
http://www.hksusa.com/content/pdf3279.pdf