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AWDphantomTSI

15+ Year Contributor
54
0
Apr 5, 2004
Allentown, Pennsylvania
I still havent fixed the 97 eclipse i was talkin about in my other thread....thought the CPS fixed it then 2 days later the same thing. I Have replaced:

ECU
CPS ( Crank Position Sensor)
Battery Terminals
CTS ( Coolant temp Sensor)
MAP Sensor

Car is now hard to start.....when it starts up finally it will sputter badly and die out if i try to give it gas. If I let the car sit for a few minutes then give it gas it acts fine. The car no longer shuts off while driving though. Any suggestions???? I have an extra TPS and IAC that i will be throwning on the car in a day or so.
Ed
 
I still havent fixed the 97 eclipse i was talkin about in my other thread....thought the CPS fixed it then 2 days later the same thing. I Have replaced:

ECU
CPS ( Crank Position Sensor)
Battery Terminals
CTS ( Coolant temp Sensor)
MAP Sensor

Car is now hard to start.....when it starts up finally it will sputter badly and die out if i try to give it gas. If I let the car sit for a few minutes then give it gas it acts fine. The car no longer shuts off while driving though. Any suggestions???? I have an extra TPS and IAC that i will be throwning on the car in a day or so.
Ed


Check your feul pump/ filter.
 
how cold is it???? that can effect alot. Fuel lines can get frozen or oven your oil can bog the car down. happened to me on a cold day. I'm just giving you some extra options some you don't spend so much money.
 
how cold is it???? that can effect alot. Fuel lines can get frozen or oven your oil can bog the car down. happened to me on a cold day. I'm just giving you some extra options some you don't spend so much money.

Are you saying that his gas will freeze? WTF
 
Are you saying that his gas will freeze? WTF

No... fuel or oil cannot freeze inside a car. The melting points for each is far below even the lowest temperatures found naturally on this planet. Oil does, however, thicken to a degree; although there aren't any noticeable effects unless you're using something other than 10W-30 or 5W-30. Gasoline may lose its volatility in extremely low temperatures, which can cause a no-start condition.
 
Have you had your battery/charging system tested? I'm not saying this is the answer to your imediate problem, but I would suggest going to an autozone, nappa, shucks or whatever and asking them to run the test on it whenever you get a chance.
 
Are there any electrical mods to the car? I had an SAFC2 hooked up to my car at one point and the harness made its way to the EGR pipe and the MAP sensor wire was shorted out on the metal tube. You issue sounds very similar to that I was having.

Check your MAP.
 
does it smoke at all when you first start it? then the as you said after it runs for a minute its fine, does it then stop smoking? just curious because if you had leaky valve seals, or a leaky spark plug gasket in the valve cover you might be gettin some excess oil in there making it difficult for the spark plugs to fire efficiently then after it burns it off it levels out.
just an idea if you exhaust the rest of your resources.

how old are your plugs. very cheap piece, just buy some new ones for like 5 bucks and pull the old ones after the car has been sitting to see if there is oil on the plugs at all. Then just to rule that out put the new ones in.

i would say go ahead and test the cam sensor but it is a hall effect sensor and requires the snap on vantage or equivelant graphing meter to test.

i hope that TPS or IAC fixes the problem though, if not i have more 2 more ideas but lets rule out the easy stuff becuase it seems you have spent a lot of money and time already.


edit: ohh your turbo LOL your plugs are 1 step colder so it will cost about 8.50 LOL.
 
No no this is my wifes 97 RS LOL sorry i had another post about this a few weeks ago. The car has a freshly rebuilt head that doesnt even have 1k on it yet. Car only has an intake and header. No afc or electrical...i already went over the wiring harness for the EGR burn problem and found nothing. I had put another MAP from the old motor and cleaned it up and that didnt help either. I am not so sure if a bad fuel filter would cause the car to act this way...if the idle was bad all the time maybe but as it warms up it gets better. I was even thinking maybe Intake air temp sensor?? But i forgot i do not have an extra one of those....i unplugged it last night when the car was running and it didnt change the idle or anything at all....which i thought was strange cause i would image it must have something to do with the Air/Fuel mixture? I am probably gonna replace the TPS tonight for the hell of it but im not sure it will change anything.
Ed
 
No no this is my wifes 97 RS LOL sorry i had another post about this a few weeks ago. The car has a freshly rebuilt head that doesnt even have 1k on it yet. Car only has an intake and header. No afc or electrical...i already went over the wiring harness for the EGR burn problem and found nothing. I had put another MAP from the old motor and cleaned it up and that didnt help either. I am not so sure if a bad fuel filter would cause the car to act this way...if the idle was bad all the time maybe but as it warms up it gets better. I was even thinking maybe Intake air temp sensor?? But i forgot i do not have an extra one of those....i unplugged it last night when the car was running and it didnt change the idle or anything at all....which i thought was strange cause i would image it must have something to do with the Air/Fuel mixture? I am probably gonna replace the TPS tonight for the hell of it but im not sure it will change anything.
Ed

Check your feul pump/filter. Seriously.
 
You guys caught me again. Sorry for the fuel mispelling. I dont care what you guys say, you ALL know what I meen! :thumb:
 
Did you check your camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? When I first got my RS, it had a bad camshaft pos. sensor and the symptoms were very similar. So test both of those and go from there if it wasn't the fuel related problem. Good luck
 
Well I replaced the Cam position sensor and it didnt change anything. I took the plugs out and they are fouled....so i am ruling the fuel filter and pump out ...but im still changing the filter tomorrow looks like its gonna be fun i bet the lines are rusted to it knowing my luck LOL . I am also gonna change the TPS tomorrow too...but there is something electrical that messes with the air/ fuel mix that is not working right ....how else would the plugs get fouled?????
Ed
 
Well I replaced the Cam position sensor and it didnt change anything. I took the plugs out and they are fouled....so i am ruling the fuel filter and pump out ...but im still changing the filter tomorrow looks like its gonna be fun i bet the lines are rusted to it knowing my luck LOL . I am also gonna change the TPS tomorrow too...but there is something electrical that messes with the air/ fuel mix that is not working right ....how else would the plugs get fouled?????
Ed

your plugs could get fouled out from running rich, they will get loaded up with deposits.

a/f mixture related parts that are sensor oriented and not the obvious:

MAP
upstream o2
minor TB vacuum leak will cause the ECU to try and make its own adjustments therefore adding fuel.

You must understand that since you have replaced most of your primary sensors and you never even threw a code "which is usually sensor failing related" then you need to look at the other side of things. test things 1st you dont have to replace everything.......injectors,fuel pump,fuel filter,injector clips ect ect.
 
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