AN fittings In Valve Covers

[All_Boost16G]

I know that people use these in their valve cover to route the PCV system, but ive seen them in abunch of different places, some on top, Some where the stock PCV outlet is at. And my question is wheres the best place to put them and how. I can guess you can thread them in or weld them in, but if you use the stock oulets, how do you get them there. Any Help would be great.

 

[BoostedTT91]

i had JNZ tuning weld my fittings in and they did a amazing job

 

[selmerguy]

I have a an fitting for my catch can on the left side of the VC. I just pulled the stock nipple out and taped the hole to 1/8 npt. Then used the right fitting in the hole.

 

[beyondspexj]

i would love to know this as well. how are some of you doing your setups? is there a write up on this?

 

[turboglenn]

EDIT: when welding fittings in, find some way to cover the threads up!!! ( i use old fittings that are scratchd and ugly and thread them on before welding.. it's agrivating to weld in a fitting only to notice a thread got ruined due to heat or a poping piece of aluminum from the impurities that can be in cast material

Well, the ultimate place is to put them above the baffling system in the cover. BUT... when you do this you have no way to make sure all the metal shavins are gone. I washed mine out three times with parts cleaner and brake-kleen. I was still vervous about shavings in a brand new built shortblock so i dremeled away the tabs holding the baffles in and found tons more shavings.. I'm so glad i never put it on a car.

Now...while pulling the baffles is less than ideal, it beats metal in your bearings.. I would say the safest place is to put them below the baffles and pick places where not too much spraying oil can reach them (to avoid them filling too fast)

I"ll post pics of my VC real fast.. One is -8 AN for the main "vent" and it's near the stock regular vent. then behind the exhaust cam which should not see much oil. i've located a -6

From the -6 i have a -6 line that has been spilt and an OEM PCV valve installed since both cans for the 2 opening will get vacume from differnt sources (the pcv from the intake behind the TB) and the big -8 will be pulled from the inlet between turbo and air cleaner.. The second way has less total vacum than a motor has in it's intake during deell and idle so that's why it's an -8 instead of a 6 to match the other. i want this effective as possible.

I will add i haven't nlown a dipstick out since the rebuild though

YOur goal is to get the largest, most fre flowing setup you can. Use a "Uni-bit" to drill the holes the size you need, then either use a tap to thread the fittings or weld them.

I caution you from threading them because of the extra mass that will stick out inside the valve cover, and it maybe interfering with something rotating, thus making more metal shavings. I cut mine off leaving about 2mm's of material to center them up nice. The -8 points upwards for a reason (clerance on the water neck )



IN order:
first pic is of the ouside showing the 2 AN fittings.. YOu can also see the patch where i put one on top once, well the 2g hood wont' close with one there so i had to patch ti and move the fitting
. - I would have just went with a new/different VC but this one having "mitsubishi'" on it i guess is kinda rare because i've had offers on it for that reason alone. I will paint it red again and make it look nice nad new

#2.) the inside view showing how they won't obstruct anything and that they are "outiside" of what would have been baffled

#3.) Overall view of the inside with nobaffles

and the fourth pic shows the little tabs where you could weld the baffles back in... cast can be tricky, but with some patience any TIG weldor can put new tabs back on that will hold the baffles in place.. Your issue becomes finding the "baffle gasket" i haven't been able to track one down yet as they aren't suppoed to be serviced.. ahaha Go figure! And since steel melts at a higher temp than aluminum you CAN succesfully weld the baffles back in with them sitting in place.. just use enough amps to get the ob done ( i use about 90- 100 on AN to VC welds, so about 80 should do to build tabs up...then hammer/peen them to ensure they are solid and won't just pop off later)

I hope this helps
)

 

[beyondspexj]

thanks for the writeup.

 

[All_Boost16G]

Anyone else with any ideas, Im getting ready to try this hopefully this week.