Am i on the right track???

[TTalon]

hey guys, i just recently got a tsi and have been researching and so far have come up with all this that i need to go out and get....
currently i have:
k&n with no air can
accel 8mm wires
ngk iridium

i want to make sure thati am not getting things that i dont need for the time being since i am on a tight budget.

I am going to be running the stock SMIC so that will put a cap on my psi @15-17psi i believe until i can get a surpa SMIC

this is the list that i have came up with:

IC hard piping 2.5inch
DP 2.5inch
O2 sensor housing
EVO III manifold/ported 2g
electric cutout from QTP
turbo xs BOV

for fuel and tuning:
fuel injectors??
DualStage Manual Boost Controller(i have FWD)
rewired stock fuel pump...or a walbro duno if 190 or 255 would be sufficient?
afc II
stage 3 chip from keydiver
EGT
Boostgauge

sorry about the long post but i layed everything out so i can try to avoid questions. thanks guys! btw im trying to go for in the 13secs??!!

 

[LandoAWD]

13s, huh?

Ditch the iridiums and go NGK, boost controller at 17psi, fuel pump rewire, free mods, drive.

 

[TTalon]

irdiums are NGK plugs...
or u mean different NGK model of plugs...
the mods above are not able to get me even high 13's?? even @ 17psi...

 

[LandoAWD]

Originally posted by TTalon
irdiums are NGK plugs...
or u mean different NGK model of plugs...
the mods above are not able to get me even high 13's?? even @ 17psi...

I was implying that they were excessive. 13s are not too hard. Look into BPR6ES plugs.

Edit: The boost gauge you mentioned is a must. Staying away from leaky aftermarket BOVs is also good. The 1g CBV is more than enough.

 

[DSMSpyder99]

easy 13's here is the list:
1. Clean out your SMIC w/ rubbing alcohol
2. full turbo-back exhaust
3. MBC @ 16-17psi
4. boost gauge
5. NGK BPR7ES with your wires
6. I/C piping
7. keep 1G BOV it can hold 20psi easily
8. intake
9. ported EVO/2G manifold & o2 housing
10. some good tires

17psi is moderate for a DSM because 1G have 7.8:1 compression ratio. This isnt a honda where it like 10:1 so you can only boost like 5-8 psi before you turn your internals to soup.

 

[TTalon]

Originally posted by DSMSpyder99
easy 13's here is the list:
1. Clean out your SMIC w/ rubbing alcohol
2. full turbo-back exhaust
3. MBC @ 16-17psi
4. boost gauge
5. NGK BPR7ES with your wires
6. I/C piping
7. keep 1G BOV it can hold 20psi easily
8. intake
9. ported EVO/2G manifold & o2 housing
10. some good tires

17psi is moderate for a DSM because 1G have 7.8:1 compression ratio. This isnt a honda where it like 10:1 so you can only boost like 5-8 psi before you turn your internals to soup.

what about any of the fuel mods?
fuel injectors?
DualStage Manual Boost Controller(i have FWD must get)
rewired stock fuel pump...or a walbro duno if 190 or 255?
afc II?
stage 3 chip from keydiver?
EGT(must get)
Boostgauge(must get)

 

[LandoAWD]

EGT gauge isn't a must get. A logger would be a good purchase for anyone in its place. A rewire on the stock pump should be fine for 13s.

 

[JessesTalon]

Originally posted by TTalon
hey guys, i just recently got a tsi and have been researching and so far have come up with all this that i need to go out and get....
currently i have:
k&n with no air can
accel 8mm wires
ngk iridium

i want to make sure thati am not getting things that i dont need for the time being since i am on a tight budget.

I am going to be running the stock SMIC so that will put a cap on my psi @15-17psi i believe until i can get a surpa SMIC

this is the list that i have came up with:

IC hard piping 2.5inch
DP 2.5inch
O2 sensor housing
EVO III manifold/ported 2g
electric cutout from QTP
turbo xs BOV

for fuel and tuning:
fuel injectors??
DualStage Manual Boost Controller(i have FWD)
rewired stock fuel pump...or a walbro duno if 190 or 255 would be sufficient?
afc II
stage 3 chip from keydiver
EGT
Boostgauge

sorry about the long post but i layed everything out so i can try to avoid questions. thanks guys! btw im trying to go for in the 13secs??!!

13 seconds?

ok here is what you do... get a cheaper 3" baffled muffler and piping all teh way, no cat. (press bent piping)

and then buy a boost controller... set it at 15 psi

so far you are at 350 bucks... go to the track and run a glorious 13.5
then buy a act 2100 clutch for yourself and you wont have to worry about your clutch slipping @ 15psi...

 

[TTalon]

Originally posted by JessesTalon


13 seconds?

ok here is what you do... get a cheaper 3" baffled muffler and piping all teh way, no cat. (press bent piping)

and then buy a boost controller... set it at 15 psi

so far you are at 350 bucks... go to the track and run a glorious 13.5
then buy a act 2100 clutch for yourself and you wont have to worry about your clutch slipping @ 15psi...

...ok i guess i should make it 12 secs not 13's!!
and for the other dude that said to rewire the fuel pump, where can i get a rewire for that? ?
or to make things easier is someone can tell me what fuel mods other than the rewire and a datalogger...

 

[talontsi01]

Originally posted by TTalon
...ok i guess i should make it 12 secs not 13's!!
and for the other dude that said to rewire the fuel pump, where can i get a rewire for that? ?
or to make things easier is someone can tell me what fuel mods other than the rewire and a datalogger...

You have fwd, so a 12 second time slip isn't going to happen with the mods that Jesse listed.

Here is my recipe:

port the 14b
2g manifold
upgraded smic
turbo back (catback if money is really tight) remove cat if at all possible
boostcontroller/gauge set at 15 or 16
free mods
some decent tires accompanied with good driving


Thats similar to my setup right now. I have fuel cut and bad struts. So, once those get taken care of, I think a 13 sec time slip should be obtainable.

Good luck

 

[TTalon]

what are you going to do with your fuel cut probs?

 

[TTalon]

i read up that i would need a logger of some sort, afc I or II and 190 rewired to stay away from fuel cut @ 17psi w/stock SMIC on ultra 94 from sunoc...
that should be good correcT?

 

[gigahz95]

basically you replace the wire from the battery to ur stock fuel pump. theres a vfaq on it. I'm also under the impression that fuel tuning is good at any psi...so knock urself out.

 

[talontsi01]

Originally posted by TTalon
what are you going to do with your fuel cut probs?

I plan on getting a walbro 190 or a 300gt fuel pump with a chip from dsmchips.com. then ill see from there weather or not i will need to upgrade injectors.

 

[EclipseGST-95]

i just got iridium...why are they looked at as bad plugs?

 

[TTalon]

i have them bro..they havent given me a prb but i heard theres another type of NGK that us DSMer;s are supposed to use...not sure waht kind tho..

 

[GForce]

Originally posted by TTalon
i have them bro..they havent given me a prb but i heard theres another type of NGK that us DSMer;s are supposed to use...not sure waht kind tho..

BPR7ES I think they're called.

 

[EclipseGST-95]

gforce...whats so bad with the ididiums?

 

[TTalon]

on the extreme motorsport website they recommend the ngk iriduims as the best plugs to use as a part of their staged upgrades...

 

[out there]

i've heard that iridium and platinum plugs are the things to use for n/a's with upgraded ignition systems... so i don't really understand why we should see benefit from using cheaper plugs logically, it just makes sense that gold plugs would be best because they conduct electricity better than copper. i'll have to do some research to see if iridium conducts better than gold or silver... but that's getting away from the point at hand.
if something conducts better, and creates a better spark, than it should be a better plug for any engine, not just n/a. of course, this is just theory... science is usually right

 

[EclipseGST-95]

iridium-A very hard and brittle, exceptionally corrosion-resistant, whitish-yellow metallic element occurring in platinum ores and used principally to harden platinum and in high-temperature materials, electrical contacts, and wear-resistant bearings. Atomic number 77; atomic weight 192.2; melting point 2,410°C; boiling point 4,130°C; specific gravity 22.42 (at 17°C); valence 3, 4
sounds good to me...

 

[TTalon]

damnnnnnnnnn!!!!!!!!!

 

[BrokenTsi]

If you just bought the talon, dont go ripping on it just yet. Do maintenance first. Not sure if you're awd of fwd, but if you're awd, how's the transfer case? how's the tranmission fluid? I think the first mod on a dsm should be the clutch. Get it done and out of the way. act2600 is perfect. act2100 is a waste of money. Yeah I know, stock clutch can hold 13's or maybe 250 or so wheel horsepower, but eventually ripping on your car at 17 psi will smoke the clutch. Dont even think about running 17 psi on a stock exhaust. The next mod should be at least a catback. You need to expel those exhaust gases quickly. I think rewiring the pump isn't all that important. I've never done it and ive hit 11.80's at the track. Now you need a boost gauge. You still might hit fuel cut so look into hacking the mass air sensor or throw in some race gas with 17psi. If you're tight on cash, a kn filter on stock intake will do fine. Aftermarket doesn't really do much, just bling bling for big bucks. Make a home depot intake. Its cheap. For boost control, go Joe P MBC. 40 bucks lifetime warranty. This should get you into a 13 if you can drive. You'll never see a 12 on a stock turbo. People have done it, but that was with ungodly tuning, 20+ psi and race gas, maybe open downpipe, but dont even think about it, you'll blow something up.

With these mods, a 13.9 or so should be in order.

 

[BrokenTsi]

plug wires dont make you go fast. I use ngk 7mm wires. They are pretty much stock replacements. I also use ngk iridium gapped to .028. I hope you have a huge wallet. Your car will nickel and dime you to death. You other DSM'ers know what im talking about. Oem parts such as slave, master cylinders, gaskets and hardware, etc....

When i first started, i put my car up for the winter and only had plans to change out the clutch.

act2600 about 400 bucks
new oem clutch fork 65
pivot ball 20 bucks i think
bg synchroshift 11 bucks a quart
ss clutch line
slave cylinder 60
master cylinder 60
resurfaced flywheel 50

and while i did this job and had the tranny out, i found out i needed new axles, i broke a transmisison mount, i ended up doing full exhaust, evo manifold (30 bucks for helicoils to replace stripped studs in head) o2 housing, downpipe, catback, turbo (pte50trim....go big or go home....) injectors, pump, SAFC, front mount, GM maf and translator, 3" dejon tool intake, and not to mention all the crap i broke and things that needed to be fixed (oil pan, timing belt, accessorie belts, harmonic balancer, valve cover gasket).......

i have so much things to list that I did, im just going to stop cuz its depressing how much work these cars are and you all know it too.....

DSM'S
MAKING ORDINARY EVERYDAY PEOPLE INTO MECHANICS SINCE 1990

 

[BrokenTsi]

oh yeah, my clutch job turned into a 'might as well make my car fast while i got it apart' job. I estimate about 4000bucks worth of parts and about 100 hours of labor thru the course of 5 months. I am a maintenance freak and a DIY freak. I couldn't just put on old stock poopy parts back on and reuse alot of parts.

well, enough of my two sense.

Have fun with your talon and dont get discouraged. You'll be able to fix anything in about a year.