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Aluminum Flywheel

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SurrealDSM

15+ Year Contributor
141
1
Feb 21, 2005
La Habra, California
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My throwout bearing may be going out because when my car is cold and i turn it on i hear a very faint sound on the driver side where the tranny is and when i engage the clutch it goes away so i may be wrong but could someone maybe confirm this for me?...it also goes away when warm but on to the main subject ive been doing some reasearch on the fidanza aluminum flywheel but in order to do so you need the non modular set up and some of the blocks that ive been running into are that the flexplate may be an issue so far and that longer bolts may be a comfort to know its there for reinforcement. so is there anything else needed in order to do this swap? i also seen a mopar conversion kit on the howell automotive site that kinda left me drawing a blank look wondering why thats necessary or just a company trying to upsell me...anyone know if this would be useful?..heres the link
http://www.howellautomotive.com/inde...ROD&ProdID=312

i may be just making things way harder then they really are but i dont wanna go to a shop not knowing what im talking about and have them give me the shaft or say i cant do itbut so far ive come up with this

95 neon non modular clutch is needed
the flexplate may be an issue with the non modular clutch
longer bolts may be the best thing for suited comfort

thats so far what ive come up with...if there is anything missing

any help is greatly appreciated

thanks guys
 
That kit is actually to convert from a non-modular clutch to a modular one. As far as I know, there is no kit for going in the other direction.

I like the idea of a non-modular clutch because they're user-serviceable (kinda), and they're generally cheaper. You should only need the new non-modular clutch with flywheel, and the longer bolts from a '95 Neon. The longer bolts aren't just there for peace of mind... you need them for the clutch conversion to work. You can easily order those bolts through Satan. PN 6503464.

Oh, and it does sound like your TOB is possibly on the way out. Let's see what others think...
 
I will agree about the TOB, even though it is a vague description of the symptoms. These most often start shrieking or squealing when cold, then quieting down when warm. You may be the lucky owner to notice it before it gets real noisy.

I am always listening to music, thus have never heard one faintly making noise.
 
Agreed x2.

Except for the liking mod better. I like non mod BECAUSE I find it cheaper and more flexible in choices. The install is a bit more of a pain (getting the bellhousing around the installed flywheel), but it's not that bad.

And Locke makes a good point. I've fixed a few squeaks and rattles etc. by just turning up the volume :p

MB
 
yup, my My TOB is in the advanced stages of going out, and that was with the one supplied from southbend, so I think I'm gonna have to go OEM this time....but same symptoms
 
You can get non-modular clutches with aluminum flywheel's from SBC as well.
 
so im on the right track then?

95 neon clutch
and bolts and thats it?

sounds pretty complex :thumb:

but whats everyones opinion on sticking with the oem throw out bearing opposed to a companies aftermarket one and if i do the neon non modular set up is the throw out bearing from a neon need or can i just stick to my mitsu one ? :thumb:

thanks for everyones input i really appreciate it :)
 
yup, my My TOB is in the advanced stages of going out, and that was with the one supplied from southbend, so I think I'm gonna have to go OEM this time....but same symptoms

SBC should be using OE TOB's.

is the throw out bearing from a neon need or can i just stick to my mitsu one ?

They are the same TOB.
 
I would expect that if you have a modular Fidanza flywheel you could use it in conjunction with a modular clutch.

I have the OFE modular setup from SBC, no complaints here.

-Alex
:rocks:


im getting the non modular flywheel from cimotorsports im just trying to see what i need to buy so i can get this swap underway
 
Which non modular clutch are th big dogs running for the most part. I too am looking for a non modular clutch and long bolts(Paul what's sartan?) to go with this findanza flywheel I picked up in a package deal and I'm looking to be around 350whp and can't seem to find which clutch would be best without getting too crazy. How do people feel about the spec stage 3+ and is it a non modular style or only modular?
 
I don't like spec as many others don't (I would go into it, but I have been there too many times. You can search on here to find out why :D) I am currently running an Audi/Passat pressure plate, turbo dodge disc and a Neon flywheel. Pressure plate is stronger than the SRT pressure plate (2500lbs vs 2400lbs ?). I have absolutely no problem with it. A couple of neon guys used it on their turbo rides with success.

MB
 
I don't like spec as many others don't (I would go into it, but I have been there too many times. You can search on here to find out why :D) I am currently running an Audi/Passat pressure plate, turbo dodge disc and a Neon flywheel. Pressure plate is stronger than the SRT pressure plate (2500lbs vs 2400lbs ?). I have absolutely no problem with it. A couple of neon guys used it on their turbo rides with success.

MB

Yeah but I don't want to be doing this clutch swap again. By being lazy this will be my second and I have only owned the car for like 4 or 5 months LOL. The first was when I bought it but only put in a stock spec cluth. Well built motor top to bottom later and goals of 350whp and low 12's high 11's later OBVIOUSLY I need something better and if that setup you just said isn't holding like 400ft/lbs then it just won't cut it. I would get a SBC but they seem crazy expensive to mee but I mean I had a xtd clutch on my tsi that cost like 250 bucs shipped LOL.

I just talked to andy and he said that they really don't make a modular that will support the amount of hp and trq mainly that I will be making(hopefully). He also said the ASCO(spelling) lightweight flywheel and clutch setup is the only way I would really get what I was looking for . He suggested the OFE with custome street disk and pressure plate as a puck would wear out to fast because it wasn't meant to be slipped like a street disk. Anybody have any ideas on that? I don't want to spend $950 on a clutch if I don't have to but he def sounds like he knows what he's talking about.
 
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