Alternator Replacement Help

[Enigma_Man]

My Alt. died last night on the way home in the rain. The voltage on the logger remains steady at about 11.8 V, and doesn't increase with revs. The belt is fine, and spins the alt. just fine. I checked the fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay, and it is good as well.

Anybody have anything else I should check first? The VFAQ link for alternator removal is broken

Anybody have any tips for removal of the dog-turd alternator? I'm just going to go with an autozone one, I don't have a stereo, and don't have any high-powered electronics, so amperage isn't of a concern.

-Jesse

 

[crankbender]

Loosen the bolt on the exhaust side (it is down in there a bit) then loosen the locking bolt on the front side. At this point just pop the tensioner bolt out instead of screwing it around all day....much faster.

Only hints I have. You can get it off in a few minutes and have it tested. It doesn't matter which one you buy the same place pretty much rebuilds them all....just get one with a warranty cause it will probably go out again some time. (I have gone through like 3 in the past 1.5 years....damn power steering pump).

 

[Enigma_Man]

That is _awesome_ man, that's exactly what I wanted to hear that it comes off in a few minutes.

I had an oil filter back off on my previous engine, and the alternator has been covered in motor oil, and power steering fluid for a year and a half, but it rains last night, which kills it. Go figure.

If anybody else reading this has any more tips / tricks, please contribute still though. I don't want to miss out on any info

-Jesse

 

[1991TsiTurbo]

Sounds like the ALT to me. I have had to replace mine several times on two different DSM's, so here's some tips I picked up.

1. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal before you start. I forgot once and blew the 80 amp fuse on the positive battery terminal.

2. Remove the cooling fan. There's only 3 bolts holding it on and one plug to unhook. This makes the ALT more accessible.

If you remove the ALT before going to Autozone, they can test it for you while you are there, and you won't have to pay a core charge because you have the core to turn in at time of purchase.

Good luck with the replacement. It's a fairly easy, straight-forward job.

 

[fixxxer44312]

i had the same prob. autozone wanted $100 plus the old alt ($55 core fee if you don't turn in the old). i found a local automotive-electrical (wiring, startes, alts, etc) shop and bought a new front bearing (front meaning closest to pulley) and new brushes for under $20 (take at least the bearing and the brushes with you so they can find a replacement by example). the rebuild was tedious, but simple. the guys at the shop said they hardly ever replace the rear bearing unless it's the alt's second rebuild. i cleaned/polished the area of the rotor where the brushes make contact (i forget the word for it-- brain fart here) and cleaned all the other surfaces with brake cleaner and a tooth brush. after everything's dry, put it back together the way it came apart and you're good to go.