2G Alignment is wonky

[AZmocoLoco]

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My 97 gst has just been newly equipped with koni shocks on eibach pro kits. Here’s the twist, I have installed the rear subframe of a 3g V6 GTS. The measures are the same, the big focus is the larger rear sway bar, tubular control arms, and spherical bearing rear trailing arms. Well, the toe is obviously off, and I have ordered a set of volk racing rear toe arms, so that will fix the toe issue. I really am looking for suggestions on camber on both front and rear. For the rear, I have installed washers and bigger bolts to the upper control arms... (7/8” I believe) Not much has been done to the front other than replacing all suspension parts and installing energy suspension control arm bushings. Is the fact that my tires state 16” on the sheet making a difference? I currently have my Evo 8 wheels, which are 17”. I have Unlimited alignments for a year, and this was my second alignment post shock/ subframe install. Thanks!

 

[asexton6969]

Alignments are based on ride height. Ageing of coil springs and suspension as well as lowering or raising the height of a car vastly change camber and toe.

The car 16" option is just how the car was sold from the factory, won't change much on the alignment.

As far as your rear camber, you actually need to take some of your washers out to achieve more rear camber, you actually over compensated.

Your rear toe, the adjusters are often frozen (rusted) so getting toe arms in would be fantastic and allow for adjustment. Having said that, when you adjust the rear camber to where it needs to be, rear toe will drastically change. So get your camber set and then set toe.

Front camber, we 2G guys can get a bit limited. Ingalls makes an anchor bolt kit. https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=18782&cat=262&page=1 or https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=18780&cat=262&page=1 There are adjustable upper ball joints that swivel out. I must say, professionally I hate this design as it weakens the ball joint. http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/spc_camber_kit_adjustable_ball_joint.htm

See this post for upper control arms from ec17pse. It is closed as far as ordering them but you may get him to start another list at some point. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-front-upper-tubular-wishbones-arms-now-closed.514097/

Honestly the front camber I wouldn't worry about too much. Yes it is negative but toe is what causes the most wear on tires. Keep them rotated often and you should still receive good treadwear once your car is fully aligned. If you are going to be using a very soft compound tire then you will definitely need to fix the camber though.

Any questions?

 

[Brembo]

Just to add to the above. Which I completely agree with. Front camber is not very bad but it would be better if you would have -1degree on the right instead of the left. Reason being is that when you sit in the car your left front camber is going more positive and your right front going more negative. And that could make the car pull. I would say that you raise right front camber and lower left front so that when you sit in it the camber is more even from left to right. Sometime it is a lot harder to do then one might think. If you are willing to go the extra mile. Other wise drop rear camber and toe the thing in. Post results when your done so that we have some closer. Good luck.

 

[AZmocoLoco]

Alignments are based on ride height. Ageing of coil springs and suspension as well as lowering or raising the height of a car vastly change camber and toe.

The car 16" option is just how the car was sold from the factory, won't change much on the alignment. ok cool!

As far as your rear camber, you actually need to take some of your washers out to achieve more rear camber, you actually over compensated. i believe i am set at a 3/4" gap between wall & control arms. shall i attempt 7/8" instead or just start from scratch?

Your rear toe, the adjusters are often frozen (rusted) so getting toe arms in would be fantastic and allow for adjustment. Having said that, when you adjust the rear camber to where it needs to be, rear toe will drastically change. So get your camber set and then set toe. the bolts are not seized, as i recently installed the entire rear subframe, inspecting each part prior to install.

Front camber, we 2G guys can get a bit limited. Ingalls makes an anchor bolt kit. https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=18782&cat=262&page=1 or https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=18780&cat=262&page=1 There are adjustable upper ball joints that swivel out. I must say, professionally I hate this design as it weakens the ball joint. http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/spc_camber_kit_adjustable_ball_joint.htm im also looking at RRE's anchor bolt cams.

See this post for upper control arms from ec17pse. It is closed as far as ordering them but you may get him to start another list at some point. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-front-upper-tubular-wishbones-arms-now-closed.514097/ would be really nice!

Honestly the front camber I wouldn't worry about too much. Yes it is negative but toe is what causes the most wear on tires. Keep them rotated often and you should still receive good treadwear once your car is fully aligned. If you are going to be using a very soft compound tire then you will definitely need to fix the camber though. going to address this all in the next couple days. thank you for your time!

Any questions?

 

[AZmocoLoco]

Just to add to the above. Which I completely agree with. Front camber is not very bad but it would be better if you would have -1degree on the right instead of the left. Reason being is that when you sit in the car your left front camber is going more positive and your right front going more negative. And that could make the car pull. I would say that you raise right front camber and lower left front so that when you sit in it the camber is more even from left to right. Sometime it is a lot harder to do then one might think. If you are willing to go the extra mile. Other wise drop rear camber and toe the thing in. Post results when your done so that we have some closer. Good luck.

i will keep that in mind, good idea! maybe i should lose some weight on top of that too!! i will keep you guys updated and posted next time its on the rack. should be the end of this week.

 

[luv2rallye]

For front camber I ended up using the Ingalls anchor bolt kit which solved my pulling issue. I tryed other things which didn't work: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bad-pull-to-the-left.504339/#post-153639189

 

[AZmocoLoco]

For front camber I ended up using the Ingalls anchor bolt kit which solved my pulling issue. I tryed other things which didn't work: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bad-pull-to-the-left.504339/#post-153639189

I will give those a shot, thank you for your feedback!

 

[AZmocoLoco]

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Original measurement was 3/4” spacers.

 

[AZmocoLoco]

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New spacers gapped at 1/2”... hope this works!

 

[asexton6969]

Post up a picture of the new print out. May take some time to get it exactly where you want. Only drawback of using washers under the bolts but hey it does work!

 

[AZmocoLoco]

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Just got them in the mail, cars going on the rack this weekend for hopefully a green alignment in the rear. The front I will wait for a bit to get the ignals, due to school shopping coming up later this month..!