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air fuel gauge install [Merged 10-8] A/F AF ratio worthless blinky

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Accutally they read the correct O2 reading @ W.O.T. it is difficult to read and understand but is still correct.Anyone who used to tune by jumptronix digital O2 sensor gauge knows this.http://roadraceengineering.com/instructions/afmeterinstallinstructions.htm
Joe, there is simply too much variation between car to car making it inaccurate, tuning via A/F gauge alone is like throwing darts while blind folded, a good way to blow up your engine, not to mention WOT is only a part of tuning, I would like to know how would you go about idle and part throttle tune besides estimating.
 
I forgot the website... (www.gadgetseller.com)sorry, but they modify a/f gauges to full throttle. I have one that I'm not using. It flashes and does it's light show like norma, but when you get on it, it goes steady and gives a decent reading. Your still only looking at a narrow band signal though. I'm overall happy with my aem uego and you can get them on egay used for decent. I got mine for $200 shipped. It reads in digital with big o'l numbers and has a dial too. You can adjust it from lambda to afr, it also has the normal digital and analog outs for dataloggers.

I know I blew out too much info, but...oh well- If your gonna spend the money, might as well toss a little more in for what will actually help you.
 
I'm still trying to figure out why my car w/ it's array of new parts runs like crap. I know that "narrow band" air-fuel guages aren't a good tuning tool on our cars but I had one laying around so I thought I would hook it up to see what it says. When the car first starts the guage displays lean for a couple of seconds and then climbs over to 3 bars rich at idle. Shouldn't this thing dance back and forth at idle. Also at idle my logger displays a pretty consistent .95 volts.

New 6bolt long block
2 new sets of plugs and wires
new o2
new walbro 255
 
When you just start your car, its still in open loop, so its not going to be "dancing around".

Certain parameters have to be met (such as ECT) before the car will jump into closed loop.
 
I do have an afpr but its not hooked up. Is the walbro giving me too much fuel for the stock reg?
 
I do have an afpr but its not hooked up. Is the walbro giving me too much fuel for the stock reg?

They have a tendency to do that, yes. BUT when I ran my 255 in my 1g without a regulator, I didnt overrun. I dont know how or why, but when I installed it I didnt have to change my tune at all. I was really shocked. This may or may not be the case but I wouldnt rule it out. Also the ect will effect that too. Those gauges arent accurate at all, which im sure you know and if your logger is staying steady im sure your ok.
 
I drove to work today (about 20 miles) and the guage stayed pretty much the same. It hung about 2 to 3 bars rich while driving and dropped back very quick to stoich while shifting then back to 2 to 3 bars rich as soon as pressed the gas again. During decel while in gear the guage would very quickly drop back from rich to lean and then go black until I touched the gas again. Even after a 20 mile drive the guage still read 3 bars rich while sitting parked at work idling. Again shouldn't it dance at idle? My car runs like crap when you hit 4k rpms and there is a lot of black soot around my back bumper and my less than 200 mile exhaust.
 
The black stuff on your bumper is from the car running rich.
And one old man once told me "if you hook up your air to fuel gauge to your cigaret lighter it will give you the same reading", I believe that was defiant.
 
well i been doing some research but this is my question my o2 sensor has 4 wires and my air fuel gauge has 3. the o2 sensor has 2 white wires one gray and one black. the A/F gauge has one RED one GRAY and one BLACK. well I tried installing it but i cant it to work. I got 1 of the white wires from the o2 and conected it with the RED one from my gauge and then the gray wire from the gauge to the gray wire from the o2 sensor. then the black wire to the black wire from the o2 and it did not work so. any one that has done this simple installation help this unexperienced tuner out :( it will really help
 
Is this a narrow band or a wide band? What brand is it?

If it is narrow band don't bother installing it. The sensitivity of the narrow band is almost useless, unless you like the blinky light factor.
 
The red wire on the gauge should go to a switched +12V source, not necessarily any of the wires on the O2 sensor. The black wire should be grounded (either the gray wire on the O2 sensor or chassis ground) and the gray wire should go to the black wire on the O2 sensor. What kind of gauge is this for?
 
red is 12v black is neg and the other goes to the white with black stripe. Just hooked mine up and works great
 
Is this a narrow band or a wide band? What brand is it?

If it is narrow band don't bother installing it. The sensitivity of the narrow band is almost useless, unless you like the blinky light factor.

Oh yes. Thats what I'm talkin bout. Your sig PWNS all. M3 is a masterpiece. You are my hero. :thumb:
 
Is this a narrow band or a wide band? What brand is it?

If it is narrow band don't bother installing it. The sensitivity of the narrow band is almost useless, unless you like the blinky light factor.

the brand is AC

i just want to know where is the point in my car to cut and splice the wire because i was reading that u should never cut and splice the wire where the o2 sensor is at so :confused:
 
as long as its befor the o2 plug you should be fine. I actually tapeed in right at the ecu so i didnt have to run as long of a wire. I think it was on the top connector. There is only 1 white w/black stripe wire going into the ecu so you really cant screw it up
 
i recently installed my Faze Air/Fuel gauge and followed the instructions, and when i went to fire up the car the gauge wasnt working but then the car started to run very rich with the gauge still not working, i checkd all connections and all had power where they were supposed to, anyone have any suggestions on why its not working?
 
i recently installed my Faze Air/Fuel gauge and followed the instructions, and when i went to fire up the car the gauge wasnt working but then the car started to run very rich with the gauge still not working, i checkd all connections and all had power where they were supposed to, anyone have any suggestions on why its not working?

how do you know if the car started to run rich if it wasn't working?

Seriously though, are you sure you wired it to the correct wire coming off the ecu? How's about you tell us what you wired it to and then someone can tell you if that's right or not.


They work? WTF

bahahaha ROFLROFL
 
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