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AFPR question

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Yes you can, you can even retain the stock fuel pressure regulator and eliminate the fuel pressure regulator solenoid.

While at it you may want to consider removing the purge control valve solenoid also, but this will have some emissions related consequences.
 
The only reason I ask, is I did remove it, after installing the engine for a rebuild, and now the car does not start. Cranks fine but does not start, fuel pressure is set, timing is on. Just barely catches. Plugs have fuel on them, rotated the cam shaft position sensor. Any thoughts?
 
The only thing the fuel pressure solunoid does is cut vaccume to the FPR during hot starts which boost fuel pressure aiding in startup (anti-vapor lock).

With the stock pump I'd leave it hooked up, but if have an aftermarket HP pump, get rid of it as fuel pressure will come up much quicker so don't need it.

Regardless, your car should start with it removed with either pump if the pump (and all else) is working correctly.

BTW.. are you getting spark at all? :dsm:
 
Yes, I have spark, tip of plug has a slightlblack burn mark on it. Gas on plugs.



BTW it has a 255 Walbro init. Stock mass air flow, stock engine (freshened up) added a front mount when gonig back together.

I know I'm missing something stupid. CHeck engine light does light, tack does jump.
 
May want to start the basics like a compression test and intake leak test.

I know you said timing was good, but may want to try the screwdriver trick:
Place long screwdriver in #1 plug hole and rotate crank pully clockwise (MPI fuse pulled and not in gear of course) until the screwdriver is at the peak of travel on the compression stroke. At this point the camshaft timing marks s/b exactly lined up and the CS pulley timing mark should point to TDC on the lower timing cover scale.

Also is there a chance that your fuel is bad, not enough of it (i.e. tank empty), or the fuel filter is clogged? Did you recently install the Walbro? Did you make sure to oil the rubber o-ring when you installed it in the hood as it tends to "kink" and not seal if you dont.

BTW.. may want to update your profile with a mods list so can better help :dsm:
 
Sorry, busy working on this damn car, body work, etc. I'm sure you know.

Walbro been in there for 2 years, (w/stock reg) The fuel is good, w/ new filter. Cam and crank timing are right on, been there too many times on other cars. Ignition timing is close do to marking before I took it apart. I'm thinking major vacuum leak, somewhere. Is there a may to make sure the cam position sensor is in correct? Are there any markings? The only things I've changed during this is, new fuel injector plugs, afpr, front mount with welded mandrel bend piping, bov vented back into intake. New fuel filter stock replacement, every once and a while after letting it sit the engine cranks just a split second faster because it wants to start.
 
micahmr2 said:
Is there a may to make sure the cam position sensor is in correct? Are there any markings?
CAS PIC It's possible to install 180* off which would affect injector firing.

The only things I've changed during this is, new fuel injector plugs, afpr, front mount with welded mandrel bend piping, bov vented back into intake. New fuel filter stock replacement, every once and a while after letting it sit the engine cranks just a split second faster because it wants to start.
Unless you'v edone this already, pull the MPI fuse and cycle the engine to get rid of any excess fuel. Then remove the plugs / clean the electode and reinstall.

Also you noted you had spark. Did you check this by visually (i.e. electrode of plug energized) :confused: :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
The only thing the fuel pressure solunoid does is cut vaccume to the FPR during cold starts which boost fuel pressure aiding in startup.
Hot starts, to help prevent fuel from evaporating in the fuel rail. :p
 
Visually have spark at all cylinders, pulled plugs wet on top of cylinders, tipw spark plug has a black spot as if it's trying to fire. Removed intake tube ito turbo, place hand over it and crank, has good vacuum. Made sure CPS is set up correct.
 
Yes, checked #2, and #4 BOTH HAD 125 PSI, after a couple cranks. I think the cylinders are starting to wash down. I checked and had 12v at the injection, did not check pulse yet, wife went to bed.
 
Just the obvious, but the plug wires are on the coilpack in the right order, correct? Front of the car to back, should be 4 1 2 3. Ended up swapping mine after my rebuild. :b

CAS, there's a notch to align it to when the engine is at TDC. I normally don't bother, just put it on, and if the car doesn't start, pop it off and flip the little flange around. Takes all of thirty seconds to get it on right, if that's the only problem you have left. :)
 
Hey, got the car running after cleaning the fuel injector connections. Runs PRETTY BAD ON ACCEL. How easy or how stupid would I be to have installed the headgasket upside down.
I think it woul be pretty obvious if I would have? After trying to drive the plugs were black.
 
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