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AEM UEGO Gauge...Melted?

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tighty

15+ Year Contributor
157
0
Nov 23, 2004
Sacramento, California
Hello everyone,

I bougth an AEM Uego wideband kit (model #30-4100) a month or so ago. I installed just gauge portion, ricer style, in the car until I could get the o2 sensor and bung welded into my exhaust. Had everything ready and finally got the o2 sensor all finished the other day. When I pulled the gauge out....it was all deformed! Its deformed to the point where I can't plug in the 2nd connection that goes to o2 harness, just the power/ground/etc. I never imaged anything would melt on a car...LOL. I'll try to post pics later. I was just wondering if anyone had heard of this before. I'll be calling up AEM to see if I can get it replaced or fixed since its brand spanking new almost. I guess the plastic backing can't stand up to the heat that builds up in the car during a hot day?

Oh well, at least my 40 dollar AC S7 Boost gauge is ok, they could afford to put a metal backing on it and still charge a couple hundred dollars less...:toobad:
 

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A normal 12v source from one of the switched lines inside the car. I think you had the wrong idea about what I mean't by melted...heh. The gauge isn't fried or anything, it still works, its just deformed, and I can't plug in the o2 harness now, unless I modify it by cutting a part of the plastic.
 
Alright, I called AEM up to see if they'd warranty it, and told them about what happened. The guy said that the gauge did that because I only hooked up the one harness...without hooking up the one for the O2. He said the power had no where else to go. Doesn't the electricity flow to the ground if it has nowhere else to go? I find it hard to believe that was the case also, because the gauge is still working and isn't "burned out," the casing is just deformed. I read through the instruciton manual also and it doesn't mention any warnings about hooking up one without the other. What do you guys think? Did he just come up with a good excuse not to warranty it?
 
Yea if he said that then the gauge would not work at all it would fry the computer in the gauge first then heat up the out side if it got to that point. Never seen anything like that good one!
 
Top gauge on a Lotek dual pillar. My Greddy Profec B Spec II is on top of the steering column and it didn't melt...LOL.
 
So I ended up just cutting some of the plastic away that had melted over the pins where the harness plugs into and hooked it all up and its working fine. The case is all distorted but I don't feel like calling up AEM who obviously doesn't give a crap and will just try to blame me right away (user install error?). If it melts some more, and the gauge falls out of the pod then I might have to. At this point, recommend staying away from the 30-4100 model, as its kinda cheap. I've heard some of the gauges have metal casings, try to find one of those if you can.
 
Install it back where it was & if it gets worse then I'd give them another call but what AEM is saying could defently happen depending on how the circuit is designed. IC's and transistors can produce more then enough heat to melt a case like that.
 
that happened to my buddies evo because he hooked it up to the 12v source going to the EMS, chances are u just had it to the wrong 12v source. only thing is AEM doesnt specify or suggest a 12v source that wont make the gauge melt like that. his melted but wouldnt work either, unlike your case.
 
Any 12 volt sorce is the same as another wether its a switched 12 source or constant 12 volt source. With that gauge it should be a switched 12 volt sorce so its not on all the time. Maybe the problem????
 
overdoseheroin said:
that happened to my buddies evo because he hooked it up to the 12v source going to the EMS, chances are u just had it to the wrong 12v source. only thing is AEM doesnt specify or suggest a 12v source that wont make the gauge melt like that. his melted but wouldnt work either, unlike your case.


Little confused how this happened? 12 volts is 12 volts, its current that will heat things up and cause damage. Current is a function of the circuit of the perticular connected device and not the source itself, unless of course the gauge was somehow wired in series with another high current device on the same line.
 
daren_p said:
Little confused how this happened? 12 volts is 12 volts, its current that will heat things up and cause damage. Current is a function of the circuit of the perticular connected device and not the source itself, unless of course the gauge was somehow wired in series with another high current device on the same line.

i thought the same thing but AEM said over the phone not to hook it up to the 12v source for the EMS, they dont say that in the directions though.
 
No no no nooooo. Its hooked up to a regular switched 12v so when you turn the key on, it comes on. Its not on all the time. The gauge cup more than likely melted because of the in car temp when it was sitting in the sun. My car is black. Its usually in a covered spot, but not always. It IS hooked up correctly. I've been using it now for a few weeks hooked up exaclty the same way, except now its wired into DSMLink to log there. Displaying A/F fine and it doesn't get hot.

Bottom line, they used crappy plastic for the cup that can't handle temps inside a car during the summer...
 
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