The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Advise on build: Regular vs. Billet vs. Gridle Mains

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

alansupra94

15+ Year Contributor
262
1
Jan 21, 2009
Wayne, New Jersey
So after finishing my 2G/1G engine, I got an excellent deal on some forged parts and decided to start a second engine build on the side. I plan to do a semi-daily driver (maybe like 2 days a week) and shooting for around 650awhp (750hp at the crank) through a Holset VGT turbo.

Here is what I think the build will look like

Bottom End: (1G NA block)
9:1 JE Pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL Race Bearings
Stock Mains (not sure)
ARP main/headstuds

Head: (1G NA head)
1mm oversized valves (5 angle valve job)
Ported and Polished intake and exhaust side (I will definitely check to make sure it is port matched with my Mangus Intake and Exhaust manifold).
Manley valvetrain (have to double check what is there but sure its all aftermarket)
MLS headgasket (should I?)
Camshafts (not 100% sure which ones to use)

So the question is for my goals should I:
A. Go with stock mains and arp mains? JayRacing Mains? Girdle?
B. MLS headgasket? O-ring the head/block? Copper Head Gasket?
C. Clearances? Recommended? What do you guys run?
D. Any other suggestions?
E. What clutch would you guys recommend? PPT Twin Disc? Exedy?

I have read conflicting things all around so I would like to see what you guys think.

Thanks,
Alan
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You will be just fine using stock mains. If its a 7 bolt just do studs. If its a 6 bolt it is wise to get a Kiggly Main girdle but NOT 100% needed. But remember any time you put a stud somewhere you should really get it align honed!
 
You will be just fine using stock mains. If its a 7 bolt just do studs. If its a 6 bolt it is wise to get a Kiggly Main girdle but NOT 100% needed. But remember any time you put a stud somewhere you should really get it align honed!

The block hasn't been machined yet but I will be doing everything as well as blueprinting everything like I did for my 2G/1G build.

Reason I would say meh to the girdle is because it is $120 when I can just spend another $180 and get serious business billet steel mains.

Billet Main Caps : Jay Racing

Does the girdle add things that the mains don't that should be considered?

I would highly recommend the kiggly girdle for longevity at that power level.

I do want longevity.

I mean for the most part, during daily activites, the car would probably be limited to low boost (350hp at most). I would only make a few fast passes here and there.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would rather use the stock mains than those billet ones. The stock ones are at least somewhat connect together. The main purpose of the girdle is to keep the mains from moving around too much at higher power levels. That's why kiggly and stock 7 bolt mains are all connected.
 
Why are you getting over sized valves for?

No idea ROFL

That is just the way the head I got came with.

I would rather use the stock mains than those billet ones. The stock ones are at least somewhat connect together. The main purpose of the girdle is to keep the mains from moving around too much at higher power levels. That's why kiggly and stock 7 bolt mains are all connected.

I was under the impression that the girdle's purpose was to stop fretting?
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top