Actuator

[fwdturbobov1996]

Ok so I bought a 14b today. Was putting the actuator on, then tightened a little to tight and SNAP went the bolt. So now I have one bolt holding the actuator down, it doesnt budge at all but is it going to affect my boost at all?

 

[RoasT BeeF]

I would try to get the other bolt out if at all possible. You dont want that thing binding up.

 

[mr95gst]

No as long as it does not move. But it will get loose over time so you will want to get it fixed eventually.

 

[fwdturbobov1996]

No as long as it does not move. But it will get loose over time so you will want to get it fixed eventually.

Psh another excuse for a 20g or such.

 

[mr95gst]

Psh another excuse for a 20g or such.

Or a T67-T3 from Full-Race

 

[MrBoxx]

Sears sells EZ-Outs which should be able to extract the bolt. It should be pretty easy to get out, since there should be any rust getting in the way. I've never used them, though my uncle has. The way I understand it, you drill a hole in the bolt, then insert this EZ-Out in the drill chuck and drill it in. Somehow it grabs onto the bolt and it just screws out.

Here is an example.

Anything like this should take the bolt out, then you can just go to the dealership and order a new one, get one at a junkyard, buy one at a hardware store, etc. And you'll be learning a new skill too!

Edit: You know what? I should have asked my parents for one of these. I broke a bunch of bolts trying to get my bumper off and could use these to get the stubs out and replace them. Thanks for reminding me.

 

[fwdturbobov1996]

Going to attempt to use some ez out on it, if that doesnt work, looks like its going in the car with one bolt. Also on this 14b my water lines are going to have to be really bent. On the front water/coolant line should I have it going down and to the left or up and to the left.

 

[MrBoxx]

I just looked on my 14b and my front line goes down and to the left, but I bought the RRE complete install kit, which came with new lines. To avoid pinching or kinking the metal lines, I would insert a thick gauge wire in the pipe before you bend it. This might help the pipe keep its shape as you bend it.

Edit: On the RRE site for their hacker/tweaker kit, it says you can just swap the front and rear lines and that should work with a little tweaking. You might try that first to see if it's better than bending them first.

Edit (again): Reading further down that page, here's what they say about the water lines: "Re-use both of the water pipes. They just get bent a little. Put the front pipe on the rear and the rear pipe on the front. This is the way we do it here in the shop. The lower front water hose may need to be extended a little, 3/8" fuel line works well. The pipes will bend more than you would think possible. We bolt them to the turbo and insert a rod into the pipe to the end of the pipe and bend a little at a time. Nice and slow. "