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A little advice please

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AWDtalonPt2

10+ Year Contributor
231
0
Jun 10, 2009
Carbondale, Pennsylvania
This is a run down of the parts that I have decided on so far.

-TRE stage 3 trans rebuild with 4 spider center and ripgrip front lsd and Evo 3 rear lsd. Rebuilt transfer case
-Stock 7-bolt bottom end (180 across the board and BS removal)
-6AN tank to rail and return with Fuel Lab filter and FPR
-950cc's (unsure on the brand)
-Walbro 255hp rewired
-Link v3

The things I am unsure of are the turbo, valve train/cams, and clutch set up.

As far as the turbo, I've been leaning towards the HTA68. Originally, I thought I decided on a MHI evo3.
Valve train will be decided on the cams. I'm leaning towards 272's or 264's.
For the clutch I am totally undecided. Too many options.

This is where I need advice. I'm shooting for 350 to 400 hp as reliable and streetable as possible. I want to get parts that will be stressed as little as possible at this level. I would like to do it right and only once. If anything maybe a bigger turbo when it starts to feel slow. I'm aiming for quick spool, good torque, and a decent top end. With what I have mentioned, I think I'm pretty close. If anyone has any advice, suggestions, opinions... feel free. I am totally lost on the clutch set up and cams. Remember, I'd like to keep it as streetable as possible. It may see a track 3 times a year(would be a lot). It definitely will be sideways on snow and ice:D. Thanks
 
dude, for 300-400 whp, you wont need most of those upgrades.. A E316G will suffice. You can get 350 whp on a 16g no problem.
 
If you want cams the HKS 262 intake and 272 exaust combo has great torque with the higher rpm power also, a 16g should be fine for your power goals and as for clutch, I would say an ACT 2600 with street disk would be good, but it was deemed as a "crankwalk" cause so if you don't want to risk it than and ACT 2100 would be ok.
 
He speaks the truth...

grab v3, a low pressure walbro, 950's and pick your poison with a E3-16g or 18g or 20g... you can use the stock manifold.. or go to an evo3 or FP cast manifold.

address the cooling (IC and Rad).. No need for a 4spider or huge trans build and evo diff. just a basic rebuild will hold fine at that power if you dont try to spin the tires everyday. I gues if your plan is to launch the crap out of it every weekend then you will need stronger. but still no need for the 4spider or evo rear. stock rear lsd will be fine if you have one. and the normal act2600 should hold that power back just fine.

you dont need anything but fuel, cooling and more boost for that power level.

and stock fuel lines will be fine and cams will be fine... i guess you could put bigger cams in if you wanted, but you dont need to to meet your goal.

all said you could do the whole build for well under 2k unless your trans is shot.
 
dude, for 300-400 whp, you wont need most of those upgrades.. A E316G will suffice. You can get 350 whp on a 16g no problem.

Agreed, if I would be satisfied at 350 for long. All of the extra and overkill things I have mentioned are in case I would like to go bigger in the future.
 
He wants parts that will not be performing @ their max for his goals so I think the E316G is off the list. A nice HX35 will satisfy your needs with room for more later on. As for Cams go straight to a set of 272's.
 
If you want cams the HKS 262 intake and 272 exaust combo has great torque with the higher rpm power also, a 16g should be fine for your power goals and as for clutch, I would say an ACT 2600 with street disk would be good, but it was deemed as a "crankwalk" cause so if you don't want to risk it than and ACT 2100 would be ok.

I have been looking into HKS amongst others. The 262 and 272 combo does seem to fit the bill. As for the 2600 and crankwalk, I've heard you either have it or won't. I have 71k on the stock engine and everything is smooth and withing spec. Act is proven but i've also been looking into spec and exedy. The 2100 and my habits give it a short life(from experience with the street disc). Perhaps with a better disc.
 
He speaks the truth...

grab v3, a low pressure walbro, 950's and pick your poison with a E3-16g or 18g or 20g... you can use the stock manifold.. or go to an evo3 or FP cast manifold.

address the cooling (IC and Rad).. No need for a 4spider or huge trans build and evo diff. just a basic rebuild will hold fine at that power if you dont try to spin the tires everyday. I gues if your plan is to launch the crap out of it every weekend then you will need stronger. but still no need for the 4spider or evo rear. stock rear lsd will be fine if you have one. and the normal act2600 should hold that power back just fine.

you dont need anything but fuel, cooling and more boost for that power level.

and stock fuel lines will be fine and cams will be fine... i guess you could put bigger cams in if you wanted, but you dont need to to meet your goal.

all said you could do the whole build for well under 2k unless your trans is shot.

-V3. yes
-190lp. no. It would fall too short too soon. Why do it more than once.
-18g maybe. HTA68?
-Cooling is already taken care of. PR FMIC and rad.
-Trans. Badder is better. again, why do it more than once.
-Not alot of launches but will see some, more along the lines of snow and ice rally
-2600. Still a thought

The question is how long will your stock transmission hold those power levels. I would recommend a Stage II for your goals.

Stage 2 would suffice for most. I just want to have that extra comfort if I do drive spiritedly, so to speak. I am looking to do this only once.

He wants parts that will not be performing @ their max for his goals so I think the E316G is off the list. A nice HX35 will satisfy your needs with room for more later on. As for Cams go straight to a set of 272's.

Thanks for understanding. This is why I mentioned the HTA68, although the HX35 does seem very nice. How is spool up? The 272's is what I am thinking but which ones. Maybe FP2's?

You got to do some suspension work to put the power down and keep it there :D it seems like the parts lists never end :p

Full bushing replacement with urethane, strut and sway bars, and some coilovers. I'm looking into the D2's. My buddy runs them on his Evo 8 and they are quite impressive. Parts lists are infinite until you have to fab.
 
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Agreed with you, do it right the first time and you won't have to fix it later, an ACT 2600 with street disk would be the better choice for you, oh do you know what flywheel your going to use? prothane bushings is what I'll recomend
 
Agreed with you, do it right the first time and you won't have to fix it later, an ACT 2600 with street disk would be the better choice for you, oh do you know what flywheel your going to use? prothane bushings is what I'll recomend

Everyone seems to be saying the 2600. I have no idea on the flywheel. I was looking at ACT, Fidanza, and exedy. What about an Exedy stage 2 or a Spec stage 2+ for the clutch?
 
Extremepsi has an Act 2600 clutch with the Act streetlight flywheel kit(can't think of a better word) for a good price so I would personally go for it over the fadanza and the exedy. I havnt heard anything about the exedy clutch. Stick with what people recomend because usually it works :)
 
He wants parts that will not be performing @ their max for his goals so I think the E316G is off the list. A nice HX35 will satisfy your needs with room for more later on. As for Cams go straight to a set of 272's.

This.
At 350hp the E3 16G would be running quite hard, feasible but I'd go with a bit bigger.

Thanks for understanding. This is why I mentioned the HTA68, although the HX35 does seem very nice. How is spool up? The 272's is what I am thinking but which ones. Maybe FP2's?

Spool up is awesome with the HX35. :)
 
Extremepsi has an Act 2600 clutch with the Act streetlight flywheel kit(can't think of a better word) for a good price so I would personally go for it over the fadanza and the exedy. I havnt heard anything about the exedy clutch. Stick with what people recomend because usually it works :)

Checked it out, hella good price. Still up in the air though.

This.
At 350hp the E3 16G would be running quite hard, feasible but I'd go with a bit bigger.



Spool up is awesome with the HX35. :)

I saw an HX35 setup in the classifieds for $850. Good deal or what? When you say spool up is awesome, what rpm does boost start and what rpm is full boost expected(around 20psi, give or take)?


I think i've decided on 272's as far as cams go. Any advice on brands and valve train components for said brand?
 
Just like the clutch kit, extreme psi also has a good deal on brian crower cams, springs, and retainers, your choice of 272, 280, or 288. and if you only want to do it once, get a 6 bolt bottom end. 7 bolts are scary.
 
Just like the clutch kit, extreme psi also has a good deal on brian crower cams, springs, and retainers, your choice of 272, 280, or 288. and if you only want to do it once, get a 6 bolt bottom end. 7 bolts are scary.

I'd like to see how far I could push the stock 7 bolt. I've heard that there are a lot of better options than the brian crower cams such as FP, Kellford........ Can anyone confirm this?
 
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I've decided to go with the ACT's 2600 with street disc and their flywheel. I'm still unsure about the turbo and cams. I'm was looking into FP's cams. FP1 int. FP2 ex. Anyone run this combo?
 
if ## only looking for around 400hp e316g will be fine but pretty well maxed. go with the 255 walbro its cheap and will allow more boost if u decide to go for more power. a set of 750 pte's will be plenty, act 2600 stage 2 will be good for streetability. (i have a 4 puck stage 3 and its not fun in heavy traffic and it dosent like to be under 2000 rpm) 7bolts are hit and miss i never had an issue with crankwalk on my 95 and i had 210k on the clock. 6 bolts were much stronger all around and 7 bolt rods are weaker than 6 bolt. as for cams check out the dsm graveyard website. they have a custom 274 cam and u can buy them with retainers etc....you should be fine on stock motor at 400hp if ## motor is well taken care of and u have a good tune. just be ready because things will break. good luck
 
Here is the original list that I started with and are definite.


-TRE stage 3 trans rebuild with 4 spider center and ripgrip front lsd and Evo 3 rear lsd. Rebuilt transfer case
-Stock 7-bolt bottom end (180 across the board and BS removal)
-6AN tank to rail and return with Fuel Lab filter and FPR
-950cc's (unsure on the brand)
-Walbro 255hp rewired
-Link v3

just added this

-ACT 2600 w/ street disc and flywheel (also OEM fork, fulcrum ball, TOB, extended slave)
-FP ex manifold
-PR 02 housing with Tial MVS open dump
Some of this is already on the way.

I still can't decide on the turbo and cams. As far as the turbo, I'm still leaning towards HTA68. I've been looking into the HX35 and it seems good. From what I can understand from researching is that the 68 will spool like a 16g but with more capability up top. The HX35 spools a bit slower but hits harder. What choice would be better. I think the 68 would be good for 380 to 400hp with out pushing it to it's limits. The HX35 seems like it would have no problem at all at that level with room for more. I'm going to be running 93. So, I'm stuck. I can't be definitive without more info on both turbo's. Also what would be ideal for cam selection. I've been looking into FP1 intake and FP2 exhaust. I'd like to retain as much bottom end as possible but I have been looking into matched 272's. I'm lost here. Anyone with experience HELP!!!! Thanks

Anyone?
 
I would go with Kelford 272 cams. They have been proven on a lot of setups to make the most power. The Fidanza 4.3 clutch kit is also nice, I have had great luck with it. The Evo3 16g would also be good for your setup.
 
I would go with Kelford 272 cams. They have been proven on a lot of setups to make the most power. The Fidanza 4.3 clutch kit is also nice, I have had great luck with it. The Evo3 16g would also be good for your setup.

I've been taking a good look at the Kelfords. I've heard Fidanza's customer service isn't so good. As for the E316g, No. Could it get me there, Yes. Maybe with E85 and I'd be pushing the turbo to it's limits. I'll be running pump (93). I don't want a turbo that I'm going to be pushing to it's threshold. This is why I'm looking into the HTA68 and the Holset HX 35. These are the two turbos I'm trying to find info on. Thanks anyway.

Please read posts 1 and 20. If there was something I was unclear on, just ask. Cams and Turbo?
 
Like I said befor, The HKS 272exaust/262intake combo works great as cams, also it will allow you to keep the low end power better than strait up 272s. I hear good things about both turbos but I never worked with them or drove a car with them so I don't want to say anything because I don't want to spred false info.
 
Like I said befor, The HKS 272exaust/262intake combo works great as cams, also it will allow you to keep the low end power better than strait up 272s. I hear good things about both turbos but I never worked with them or drove a car with them so I don't want to say anything because I don't want to spred false info.

I have to say that I would love to go with the HKS cams but they are a bit pricey. That combo fits the bill as far as what I'm trying to achieve. I haven't had a lot of luck finding info on the turbos either. Are there cams comparable to the 264 intake 272 exhaust from HKS that are more affordable?
 
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