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A good polisher / buffer & compounds for the apprentice

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cbarr0288

10+ Year Contributor
89
0
Dec 22, 2009
Rochester, New York
Since I got my car I have noticed the swirl marks & small dings all over in good lighting

Plus I'm getting my rusty strut tower fixed by a local place for an estimated $150. This is so cheap because I will be doing the painting myself. I'm also getting my rear hatch fixed which will add a little to the cost.

In the process, Id also like to paint the tail light center in black to match the paint. The spoiler has a few paint blemishes, and if all works out well enough I might try to tackle this too.

Finally here's the questions

(1) Where can I find a decent polisher for a good price? I'm talking around 50 bucks. What things should I be looking for in buying a polisher? What are the various pads I need? I'm really clueless.

(2) Compounds - Which ones to get for that new paint finish? How do you compare various compounds? Is there an associated grit with each? I have some experience with wet sanding, I did the yellow headlight thing, and for that the Meguiar's Plasic X and Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish worked just fine. However I don't think that will be the case with automotive paint.

(3)Paint - Is a good finish achievable with spray paint with wet sanding in between layers or is that just crazy? That being said if I will be needing a paint gun, help on that too please!

Here is a few of strut tower & hatch before pics for your viewing pleasure:



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Thanks guys
 

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Finally here's the questions

(1) Where can I find a decent polisher for a good price? I'm talking around 50 bucks. What things should I be looking for in buying a polisher? What are the various pads I need? I'm really clueless.

(2) Compounds - Which ones to get for that new paint finish? How do you compare various compounds? Is there an associated grit with each? I have some experience with wet sanding, I did the yellow headlight thing, and for that the Meguiar's Plasic X and Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish worked just fine. However I don't think that will be the case with automotive paint.

(3)Paint - Is a good finish achievable with spray paint with wet sanding in between layers or is that just crazy? That being said if I will be needing a paint gun, help on that too please!

1. I don't know where you can get a good buffing tool for that price, I would check harbor freight first.

For the pads, you should have a "rough" pad, like this:

http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r1200gs/paint/images/pad_1.jpg

Then a fine pad, like this:

http://images.tcpglobal.com/tcp/tcppp-5013_c.jpg

And an extra fine pad, like this:

http://images.tcpglobal.com/tcp/tcppp-5014_c.jpg

2. This is good for fresh paint:

http://www.aawsales.com/assets/images/11040.jpg

3. In my opinion, not at all. But some people will argue yes, I don't understand why, but they do.

My car was done with this compound and these pads if you want to see results.
 
Porter Cable 7424xp
Velcro adapter plate
Lake country pads (orange, white)

Meguiars ultra cut (105)
Meguairs ultra finishing (205)

Yes its more expensive than you said. You will not be disappointed. Buy quality.

I already bought this Chicago Electric 7" Variable Speed Polisher/Sander

Also this Meguiars Ultimate Compound and this Meguiars Swirl X Swirl Remover

Ill probably need something to finish it off right? Do I need both of those you suggested? Thats perfect too, cause I would like to keep it all one brand.
 
That buffer should work, just use low speeds to start off, just avoid corners, and keepthe machine moving or you'll burn through the paint.

Do yourself a favor, and get some of those foam buffing pads. They work wonders, and they don't burn through as easily. 9" Foam Buffing Pad 9" Black Foam Polishing Pad You should get a 9" backing pad too. There's a part # there for it, but it doesn't appear to be available at HF.

Ps. Fun fact: I guessed what state you were from just by looking at the pictures of your strut tower.
 
Be very careful with that machine. It is not orbital. If you a really a rookie, I HIGHLY suggest not starting on new paint with that machine. Do yourself a favor.

AutoGeek.com Automotive Super Site

go look in the forums. read read read.

Thanks for the heads up, I will be as careful as possible. Ive weight the orbital option and decided my exterior is beyond what an orbital can cure. I've also read all I can read on that website to help me.

And ill be practicing on the stone counter-top surrounding my bathroom sink upstairs. Its scratched to hell. I brought one side back to life by hand, and planning on doing the other when the polisher arrives. Then Ill be moving on to the unseen paint under the hood for practice on paint. Ill make sure my abilities are up to it before I attempt the exterior. But I think I have the knowledge to do it. All I need now is some good fortune.

That buffer should work, just use low speeds to start off, just avoid corners, and keepthe machine moving or you'll burn through the paint.

Do yourself a favor, and get some of those foam buffing pads. They work wonders, and they don't burn through as easily. 9" Foam Buffing Pad 9" Black Foam Polishing Pad You should get a 9" backing pad too. There's a part # there for it, but it doesn't appear to be available at HF.

Ps. Fun fact: I guessed what state you were from just by looking at the pictures of your strut tower.

9 inch is better than 7? Seems that 9 would be faster at the outer radius than the 7 and hence burn through faster.

I was going to try and work with what came with, plus maybe one or 2 softer foam 7 inch pads.

This post confuses me a little to be honest.
 
Here's the welding that's been done to the driver's side strut tower

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Seems a little silly, but just one bolt is holding me back right now. I had the intake, ecu, & battery out, then when taking off the fender, there was one bolt that wouldn't budge. It was completely rusted, so when I got the 10mm socket on there it would turn freely without moving the bolt. I had soaked it with WD-40 a few times, but since its upside down the lubricant cant really penetrate it very well. So I'm thinking if any shops are open tomorrow I'll bring it there and ask for some help with this stubborn piece of crap bolt.
 

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I work at a detail shop, and we only use 3m products for buffing. a good wash 1st, then a clay bar, then their machine buffing compound with their tan pad, then a swirl remover polish with their blue pad.

Buffing is quite fun, makes a huge difference!
 
Porter Cable 7424xp
Velcro adapter plate
Lake country pads (orange, white)

Meguiars ultra cut (105)
Meguairs ultra finishing (205)

Yes its more expensive than you said. You will not be disappointed. Buy quality.

I would recomend this also. I will be getting one myself in a month or so.
 
welding looks good.. coulda saved yourself some cash and done it yourself like i did =p not to hard.

I would've had to buy all the welding equipment and I've never welded before. I paid 165 for that and the rear hatch. How much could I have saved.. How much is peace of mind worth when your going 80 on the highway?

I work at a detail shop, and we only use 3m products for buffing. a good wash 1st, then a clay bar, then their machine buffing compound with their tan pad, then a swirl remover polish with their blue pad.

Buffing is quite fun, makes a huge difference!

Got all Meguiars products, heres my lineup
Meguiars Ultimate Compound
Meguiars Swirl X Swirl Remover
Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
Meguiars MEGM0716 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax
Meguiars Quik Detailer

I bought the rotary buffer from harbor freight.
 
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