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A fix for boost creep!!! maybe..... *picture*

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99gst_racer

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Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
I recently came across a GReddy part that I found could be very useful. It is a relief valve that would be mounted between the BOV and the throttle body. You adjust the tension accordingly, so if you creep or spike, it opens releasing the unwanted pressure before it enters the motor. Would this work to control boost creep/spike? What do you guys think of this??
 

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because the air that relief valve will let off has already metered therefore creating a rich mixture
 
If you could route that bypassed air back into the intake, you should be all set. Now that I think about it, a perfect spot would be valve cover breather intake line on the post-MAF accordian. If you could route the two together, you'd be all set. Most people run a filter or run the valve cover breather line to the ground anyway.... This would be a cheap, effective boost creep solution. Of course, you could just port the divider between the wastegate passage and exhaust housing.

Matt.
 
Well, if your boost was set at say 15 psi via boost controller and you were creeping to say 20 psi, even though the extra boost doesn't enter the motor because of that valve, you'd still be getting the hotter air due to the extra heat from the added boost, correct? While it might work to control boost if set up properly, I don't think it'd be worth the extra heat from added psi that the turbo is still spooling. That make any sense?

Other than that, it looks like a good product for those absolutely desperate to fix their creeping issues ;)
 
Yes, there would be a little bit of extra heat. But for those guys running a big FMIC, that little bit of extra heat will have little to no affect. :thumb:


sleeper96 - What if you're running a GM maf translator and you mount this before the sensor..... That would work correctly, right?
 
This thing probably cost just as much as an external wastegate. Why not just use a tial 38mm and get rid of the creep the correct way.
 
CanadianTSi said:
Also you would be making the turbo work really hard, it would be a better Idea just to get rid of the creep altogther.
Yeah, I thought about that too. This idea is kinda like a bandaid for the problem. But for guys that are only creeping around 5 PSI too high, it wouldnt make much difference. But I do see you point.....
 
I am running 20 psi and my turbo will creep to 25 sometimes, If I used this the turbo would be pushing 25psi all the time while the motor only see's 20, I don't know about you but I think a 16g has to work pretty hard to make 25psi. It's not a good thing if you ask me.
 
HKS makes a BOV that does exactly this it has and adjustable upped threshold for boost pressure.
 
99gst_racer said:
Yes, there would be a little bit of extra heat. But for those guys running a big FMIC, that little bit of extra heat will have little to no affect. :thumb:


I was trying to say that the guys with 16g's and such (the ones that would be really considering this) might end up pushing the turbo past its effeciency range and creating a good bit more heat while little to no more amount of air will be entering the motor. For example, you have the boost controller set to 20 psi on your 16g, well intercooled, and you're running on pump gas. Let's say you creep to 25 psi, but your motor never sees more than 20 psi because of this little device. So you're only getting 20 psi of EXTRA hot air, when you consider the turbo is most likely past it's effeciency range especially on pump gas. End result - much more heat and more knock, less timing advance, less power.

I just really think there are much better ways of controlling boost creep. While the idea of this piece is pretty neat, it has too many faults to justify its use for the one fix. A good port job or a bullseyse turbine housing will fix the problem the right way, instead of putting a bandaid on it and causing other problems :thumb:
 
If you are having heatsoak probs a H20 sprayer hooked to a solenoid in turn wired to a thermostat would do the trick.
 
That would act just like a boost leak. I don't understand why you would want that, even with a MAP sensor.
 
basically you would use that as another saftey measure. its a pop-off valve they have used for a long time on champ cars to control boost.

the only way I would use this is if I had a race car that for road racing and you needed something incase the wastegate ever failed you wouldnt blow the engine and you could keep on racing.

its a band-aid to an easy fix.
 
Here is my boost creep fix:

Stop being a ####y and running low boost in the first place :rolleyes: :p
 
PieTSI said:
That would act just like a boost leak.
Yes, but it's a contolled boost leak. :thumb:


KGB Pilot125 said:
basically you would use that as another saftey measure. its a pop-off valve they have used for a long time on champ cars to control boost.
the only way I would use this is if I had a race car that for road racing and you needed something incase the wastegate ever failed you wouldnt blow the engine and you could keep on racing.
its a band-aid to an easy fix.
Yeah, I understand what you're saying. I just thought I'd throw the idea up in the air and see what you guys thought. I know a larger WG will fix boost creep, but I thought this was a kinda cool idea and I wanted to share. :thumb:


kobykris said:
Here is my boost creep fix:

Stop being a ####y and running low boost in the first place :rolleyes: :p
Spoken like a true moron..... J/P :p
I would love to run any boost I wanted, but the fact of the matter is, I dont have the internals or fuel mods needed for 25 PSI. My valve seals dont really seem to like high PSI either. These reasons convinced me to attempt to control the boost level.

Show me a stock internal/stock injector daily driver running 25 PSI..... Good luck. :thumb:
 
99gst_racer said:
Yes, but it's a contolled .

Show me a stock internal/stock injector daily driver running 25 PSI..... Good luck. :thumb:


me and a friend bought a car that had a bunch of work done to it and we ran 22 PSI on 94 pump gas stock internals. i'll admit that it was pig rich and we had justed started to get it sorted out when we had to sell it. but it went to another friend who wanted a summer project since he is a snowmobiler and he got it really well sorted ened up running a 12 something on like 18 psi and got it to where it got close to 30 MPG on the freeway and was right at 11.5 AF to 12.5 af when cruising. then he sold it since winter is getting here and the new guy put in maverick 85 and tried to run like 25 or so pis and blew it up. had it less than a week, 3rd DSM he blown up and 6th car this year


here is what it had.
272 cams
S-AFC2
MAF trans
HUGE fmic
huge injectors I think they were 550's

we sold not long ago
 
It really depends on how good your pump gas is in your area.

Either way spend the money in the right places and you won't need a pop off valve.
 
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