A few nitrous questions

[mchustle]

Ok I have a nx efi wet kit I got at a steal and I am installing it today. My questions are:
1-is it best to tee into the fuel line going from the filter to the rail? Will this mess with my afpr under spray?
2- do I need to get the jets according to the nx jet chart since it only says one thing for all Mitsubishi?
3- what is the best way to install the wot switch? Locations?
4- seeing that I'm fwd I'm only planning to spray in 3rd, is it best to flip the arm switch when I shift to third, or just try to stay out of wot until I want to use it?

Thanks for the input.

 

[turboglenn]

1.) Yea, tee in before rail and after filter, or if u have an afpr, pull the fuel from DJ extra port on it. If your fuel pump is up to the job you'll be fine.

2.) Just use the jet they recommend, its the same for the amount of HP on all single nozzle systems.

3.) Just use imagination on the switch, on mine I had to bend the bracket all kinda weird to get it to work and not mess with the cable. Now my ECU controls it, but I'm stand alone controlled.

4.) Either ARM after third being the easiest or use foot control

 

[mchustle]

1.) Yea, tee in before rail and after filter, or if u have an afpr, pull the fuel from DJ extra port on it. If your fuel pump is up to the job you'll be fine.

2.) Just use the jet they recommend, its the same for the amount of HP on all single nozzle systems.

3.) Just use imagination on the switch, on mine I had to bend the bracket all kinda weird to get it to work and not mess with the cable. Now my ECU controls it, but I'm stand alone controlled.

4.) Either ARM after third being the easiest or use foot control

Thanks for the help man. I plan to upgrade my link v3 lite to full and use their nitrous control later on. Another quick question I'm running sd and my iat sensor is pretty close to the tb on the elbow, so if I place the "shark" nozzle after my iat it will be pretty close to the end of the tb elbow. Would this be a problem? I assume placing it before the iat would have some I'll effects on it.

 

[turboglenn]

NO problem at all,I keep mine after the IAT so it doesn't harm it with the wet fuel and n20 hitting it... anything wet isn't good for them, i found that out after toasting 2 of them the summer i ran the bottle with my 57 trim, I have the IAT about an inch behind the "shark", i've got a custom short pipe piece off the TB with the IAT, n20 and alky nozzles in it, but i have had themin the TB elbow before.. I did it this way when i redid the IC pipes just so i only had to undo a t-bolt instead of taking all of those loose to get to the TB .. now ihave an NT throttle boddy with a t-netics cast elbow welded on to it and there's nothing tapped intoi it...

Only thing to worry with killing iat's is anything not vaporized hitting it, it was wet fuel and or wet alky that killed mine,but DON't buy IAT's from racing stores online for 30 bucks, go buy one for an 87-88 chevy S10 v6, same thing but 14 bucks instead of buying the same one for a vette at 26 bucks at same store, and then 31 from AEM and other places, same with MAP sensors so much cheaper to ask for a part number

widebands for the AEM, are like 80+ online, go to oreillys and ask for bosch part number 01704 and you get the samething, plug is slightly different but still plugs end, just doesn't have the rouinded edge on one side and is only 50 bucks

 

[mchustle]

NO problem at all,I keep mine after the IAT so it doesn't harm it with the wet fuel and n20 hitting it... anything wet isn't good for them, i found that out after toasting 2 of them the summer i ran the bottle with my 57 trim, I have the IAT about an inch behind the "shark", i've got a custom short pipe piece off the TB with the IAT, n20 and alky nozzles in it, but i have had themin the TB elbow before.. I did it this way when i redid the IC pipes just so i only had to undo a t-bolt instead of taking all of those loose to get to the TB .. now ihave an NT throttle boddy with a t-netics cast elbow welded on to it and there's nothing tapped intoi it...

Only thing to worry with killing iat's is anything not vaporized hitting it, it was wet fuel and or wet alky that killed mine,but DON't buy IAT's from racing stores online for 30 bucks, go buy one for an 87-88 chevy S10 v6, same thing but 14 bucks instead of buying the same one for a vette at 26 bucks at same store, and then 31 from AEM and other places, same with MAP sensors so much cheaper to ask for a part number

widebands for the AEM, are like 80+ online, go to oreillys and ask for bosch part number 01704 and you get the samething, plug is slightly different but still plugs end, just doesn't have the rouinded edge on one side and is only 50 bucks

Awesome thanks again.
I also agree with the IATs and maps. I pieces together my sd setup for 35-40 all together. Found a brand new gm 3bar with new pig tail for 23 shipped and bout the iat, pigtail, an bung all separate for around 15 with shipping and all. Thanks for letting me know the exact car for the iat I couldn't find that info posted anywhere . Will come in handy if mine goes out.

 

[turboglenn]

Anytime, theonly info i have i don't share is what's told to me in confidence or something that cost me a ton of moeny to learn and some one wants it for free to take and bypass work i've already lined up

(comesfrom when i had a shop and would come up with ubhild plans for import kids who'd then buiy it on ebay, piece it together and broing it to me AFTER it was all screwed up with junk parts )

the best thing about the chevy s10 unit or that part number what ever it is, is that it's an open exposed element that changes temps readings fast, some GM units are like the water temps sensors and the element is not exposed so once it heat soaks it stays that way a while and sucks for good data logs or when you're pulling timing becayse of it being heat soaked as well as if you get super high IAT's and the ECU can't takesafety measures for your engine becyuse it doesn't know until its' too late