99 GST, Intro and Forum Advice

[jeffreywt]

So, here I am in the newbie forum and this post is going to be vague. I don't really have specific questions at the moment but I'm looking for any input and looking to get everything on my car sorted out.

Forgive me for the lengthy post but I'm just trying to lay out everything I know, start learning what I don't, and dive in head first no matter how deep it gets. I'm a professional geek (IT worker) so I have the desire to learn and want to get my hands dirty but honestly have no experience beyond bolt-on stuff. Perhaps this is the beginning of a build journal but seeing as I haven't built anything, I don't feel worthy of that section just yet.

I have a '99 GS-T with 126k on the clock. Here is a pic:

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Current Problems:

1. Overheating at idle. I have done the basic diagnosis (fuses, fan, coolant levels) and see no problems unless my radiator fan is intermittent. It certainly works when I am looking at it (sigh). No problems at highway speeds or while otherwise rolling. This problem seems to have stopped but I know shit doesn't fix itself so I'm still concerned.

2. Hesitation during acceleration. This seems to appear mostly when the car is cold. I'm suspecting a boost leak and will be digging into it.

3. Random and very infrequent puffs of bluish smoke. Happens maybe 1 out of 10 times when I let off the throttle. This just became noticeable in the past month.

4. A quiet but quite annoying tick sound that comes and goes. Not lifter tick. I'm suspecting an exhaust leak.

5. A/C hasnt been cold since summer of '03. I recharged it once but that lasted 2 weeks. I'm strongly considering just getting rid of it as I can live with 270 air.

Maintenance history:

Car was purchased new in July '99 with 42 miles on it.

Lots of oil changes early in it's life as I had access to a shop and nothing but time.
Less frequent oil changes while I was a dumbass college kid.
Proper oil change intervals over the past 4-5 years once I wised up.
Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 with OEM or K&N oil filters used.

I know it seems silly but, I mention that oil change history because well, I need to come clean and admit my mistakes if for some reason I might have a short block adventure in my future.

May '04 - 50k miles
Crankshaft pulley came apart causing other belts to come off
Replaced crankshaft pulley
AC, PS, and ALT belts.
Timing belt
Replaced plugs
Lower ball joints replaced under SR-01-007
Work done by Satan

June '09 - 95k miles
Timing Belt (OEM)
Tensioner
Tensioner Pulley
Idler Pulley
Balancer Pulley
Balance Shaft Belt
Water pump (new, OEM)
Work done by Satan

April '11 - 109k miles
Clutch replaced with ACT 2100 kit
Streetlite flywheel
Master and slave cylinders (new, OEM)
SS clutch line
Deleted clutch line accumulator
New axle assemblies
New wheel hub assemblies
Drive axle seals
Outer tie rod ends
Left inner tie rod end
2 wheel alignment
Hawk HPS pads
Powerslot rotors
SS brake lines
Radiator hoses
Radiator cap
Crankshaft end-play checked and measured .15mm with dial indicator
Work done by trustworthy local shop (ASE master tech)

Current mods:
Extreme PSI intake kit with K&N filter
SRS cat-back
1g BOV
RRE UICP
Hallman Pro MBC running ~13psi
Boost gauge
Brakes
Clutch/Flywheel
SSR Integral A2's that need refinish (rocking my chrome GST rims ATM)

Wish List
Lots of learning, you guys make it seem easy!
New turbo (thinking Evo 3 16g)
FMIC
ECMTuning/DSMLink
Wideband for A/F monitoring
EGT or Oil pressure gauge (or whatever is the most important)
Koni Yellows and GC sleeves with pro-kit springs with camber kit if needed
Paint/body refresh (few dents and dings and fading paint, never an accident)
300hp would be nice, not planning to race anyone or anywhere

Immediate Plans:
Boost leak testing/Fixes
Checking for turbo shaft play
Compression test
Leak down test
Prospecting for metals in my oil pan/filter
Losing sleep reading 'tuners and worrying about my car (quite successful so far)

Again, forgive me for the rambling, almost useless post. I'm a wannabe shade-tree mechanic and really just trying to get some clear goals and get some guidance so I don't screw things up or waste money. My budget for this car right now is about $4K and I want to do things right the first time. I'm in Eastern NC and travel around the state quite a bit if there are any gurus that want to mentor me. Any and all advice, criticisms, or suggestions are very welcomed. Thanks!

 

[Firsts tuner]

4k? You can do a lot with that. I would start off checking out the turbo. It is after all 14 years old. Overheating can be caused by so many things, but if it was fine all of the sudden I'd say a flush may be in order. The puff is likely from the turbo. The tick could a little piston slap, and also could cause some smoke. It's all just a guessing game really. The ac might be as simple as an o ring or something more. They have uv dye kits at the auto parts stores so you can save yourself some money by pinpointing the leak yourself. But of course the most cost efficient would be to delete the whole system, that boils down to personal preference though. Lastly might I add that is a beautiful car. Sounds like you have a few general but not critical problems. If you can even call them that. At least your motor isn't in 18,478 pieces in the garage.

 

[jayrec]

Don't forget to replace the 1g bov or have it crushed to hold more psi when you upgrade turbo. And also don't forget the injectors and fuel pump. 550cc and 190lph is what u want.
You don't need dsmlink if you still have the stock flashable 99 ecu. You do need to buy the cable though. Also add some 264-272 camshafts and your good to go.

 

[jeffreywt]

Don't forget to replace the 1g bov or have it crushed to hold more psi when you upgrade turbo. And also don't forget the injectors and fuel pump. 550cc and 190lph is what u want.
You don't need dsmlink if you still have the stock flashable 99 ecu. You do need to buy the cable though. Also add some 264-272 camshafts and your good to go.

That's a great tip on the ECU and tuning. I assumed I would be buying an EEPROM ECU or getting one socketed to use DSMLink. I was not aware of this alternative. I did some searching and it looks like I will want the following (please confirm as I am totally new to this):

Openport 2.0 with Mitsu reflash adapter
Innovate LC-1
ECUFlash software for saving tuning parameters
Evoscan software for realtime logging
Optionally, CeddyMods for adding more features to the ROM

I'm interested in getting started with this just for logging right now.

 

[dot45]

As your car is higher mileage, I suggest that you replace the timing belt and water pump if you do not know the last time it was done.

Run through all the faq's here, plenty of great info.

 

[jeffreywt]

As your car is higher mileage, I suggest that you replace the timing belt and water pump if you do not know the last time it was done.

Run through all the faq's here, plenty of great info.

Good advice. It was last done at 95K miles as I meticulously outlined in the OP.

 

[WES_393]

My thoughts in bold.

New turbo (thinking Evo 3 16g)
I would suggest also looking into the Small 16g. Cheaper, faster spool, 300hp+ capable.

FMIC
I'd suggest Punishment or VRSF. I'm partial to Punishment just because I've been using their kit for years, but VRSF has always gotten good reviews as well.

ECMTuning/DSMLink
You could go the Flash route for cheaper, but Link is more user friendly and has a huge amount of support behind it. So you can't go wrong either way really.

Wideband for A/F monitoring
Good idea. Go with an Innovate wideband.

EGT or Oil pressure gauge (or whatever is the most important)
And EGT gauge wouldn't be a bad idea, but they are considered an old-school alternative to a wideband. An oil pressure gauge would be a much better investment.

Koni Yellows and GC sleeves with pro-kit springs with camber kit if needed
You likely will need a camber kit for the rear.

Paint/body refresh (few dents and dings and fading paint, never an accident)
Whatever you do, keep it white . A good place for OEM matched paint is automotive touchup.com

300hp would be nice, not planning to race anyone or anywhere
For my recommendations, check out this post: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/465749-opinions-my-build-plan.html#post153288040

 

[RallyEclipse98]

Excellent post! I love the detail you put into your writing!

I vote the turbo is dying as well. And my A/C acted like yours awhile back and it was my compressor. Also, I would replace the thermostat and coolant. If it's been some time since you have changed the coolant I would use a coolant system cleaner but definitely not a flush on a car of this age. Remember to do it right by running the heater, etc.

Questions
1) As for the paint fade, you mean white side skirts are turning a milky yellow-white? That's very common with 2nd gen's but I've never seen white paint fade anywhere else on them.
2) You've owned the car since new then?

I say you do make a build thread! I would love to see more photos and read more well-written posts.

Welcome aboard.

 

[jeffreywt]

Excellent post! I love the detail you put into your writing!

I vote the turbo is dying as well. And my A/C acted like yours awhile back and it was my compressor. Also, I would replace the thermostat and coolant. If it's been some time since you have changed the coolant I would use a coolant system cleaner but definitely not a flush on a car of this age. Remember to do it right by running the heater, etc.

Questions
1) As for the paint fade, you mean white side skirts are turning a milky yellow-white? That's very common with 2nd gen's but I've never seen white paint fade anywhere else on them.
2) You've owned the car since new then?

I say you do make a build thread! I would love to see more photos and read more well-written posts.

Welcome aboard.

Thanks for the kind words. I'll do my best to keep things up to date. Perhaps the post can get moved to the journal section if deemed appropriate.

My clear coat on my spoiler is gone on the top making it look matte white. There is egg stain on the back from someone's Halloween fun years ago. Some key marks on my hood from some hater. A small but nasty, dime size dent on my passenger door where a rock was thrown at the car. Of course the under side of my front bumper cover is chewed up.

My passenger window has a small chip in it from the same handful of rocks that hit my passenger door. I imagine someone was trying to break the window but the car was stronger! Finding that damage the next morning was a moment of proud disappointment, if such an emotion is possible.

Along with all of that, I have some paint cracking in areas where the rear and front bumper covers have flexed a bit. I am a certified door handle replacement technician and my current set has fading paint. Who would have though that a 5 minute rattle can job wouldn't be durable? Again no wrecks and from 10ft away, it's hard to see any of it. Even so, it will probably need sanded down and resprayed to be put back to mint.

It's had a tough life parked outside year round and I certainly could have taken better care of it over these past 14 years.

I would suggest also looking into the Small 16g. Cheaper, faster spool, 300hp+ capable.

Any tips on where to find one in new condition? I've been shopping around but have not seen a small 16g for sale. I'm kind of worried about eBay or rebuilt stuff.

Thanks for your comments and that goes for everyone that has chimed in.

 

[jeffreywt]

I successfully logged some data using Evoscan and my OpenPort 2.0 connector. Baby steps, I know but success nonetheless.

 

[jeffreywt]

I received a box today containing a Evo 3 16g, Evo 3 manifold and o2 housing. For an intercooler I ordered the ETS street kit. My current goals are mild and I like the fact that it installs with minimal modification and of course it is anodized black.

Wes: I didn't ignore your advice on the turbo but the brand new Evo 3 16G really sealed the deal for me. I don't want to dick around with rebuilt or used parts.

I'm going to stick with the internal wastegate and a 1G BOV, at least for now. If I get boost spike problems I might switch to a FP o2 housing and Tial WG and BOV. We'll see how it goes. I'm of course going to be running around 12psi (I'll set the MBC or might just run WG pressure) until I can get some injectors and ROM flash action. I have lots to learn before I make that leap.

Question: Running 12psi on the 16G, is it time for a bigger fuel pump or do I not need that until I replace injectors?

I also ordered up the full kit from GroundControl and a pair of Ingalls 1 deg rear camber kits. Hopefully 1 deg of adjustment will get it done. The springs are 430 in front and 300 in rear. Trevor @ GC said this should be a bit more agressive but not sacrifice daily ride quality. I'm not doing auto-X or running the 1/4 mile. My suspension goals are to eliminate some wheel gap and refresh the 14 year old stock setup. I'm strongly considering doing the black plasti-dip on my SSR's but at 32, I might be too old for black wheels ().

I realize I dropped a bunch of money on a near stock setup but it seemed like a good idea at the time. Maybe in a few years when this isn't a DD, I'll go with something bigger. Let me know if any of my plans aren't kosher or if I'm looking at problems. As always, thanks so much to everyone for entertaining questions from a newbie.

 

[Insane20]

just curious where did you get that turbo from?

 

[jeffreywt]

just curious where did you get that turbo from?

ExtremePSI

The turbo, manifold, and o2 housing are all brand new with Mitsu tags on the boxes.

I should really just setup direct deposit at the office to ExtremePSI's checking account.

 

[Insane20]

nice im planning on getting mine from there also. did you ever figure out your overheat problem?

 

[jeffreywt]

Yup, low coolant. What I learned is that checking the overflow and putting some in there in hopes it will suck it up just doesn't cut it. Over the long 4th weekend I was able to do some work while everything was cold. The radiator was about 4 pints low. How did I come up with 4 pints? I used a beer glass to refill it. I put in 50/50 Peak antifreeze, not pale ale.

 

[Insane20]

thatll do it, is there any visible leaks?

 

[jeffreywt]

thatll do it, is there any visible leaks?

Not that I have seen so far but I'm keeping my eye on it. It is nice to be able to go through the drive through at Taco Bell again! Now my blood pressure only goes up after I eat.

 

[Chrispy0530]

Not a useful tech post. But beautiful car man. Keep it clean!

 

[jeffreywt]

Not a useful tech post. But beautiful car man. Keep it clean!

That's why this thread is in the newbie forum and I have contained all my babble to a single thread. I hope it's clear I'm not just trying to up my tech post count. I would donate but the forum tells me "DSM Forums does not have any paid subscriptions available to which you can subscribe."

Thanks for the compliment! The car has treated me good for 14 years and I feel obligated to return the favor.

 

[95_gsx_2g]

I received a box today containing a Evo 3 16g, Evo 3 manifold and o2 housing. For an intercooler I ordered the ETS street kit. My current goals are mild and I like the fact that it installs with minimal modification and of course it is anodized black.

Wes: I didn't ignore your advice on the turbo but the brand new Evo 3 16G really sealed the deal for me. I don't want to dick around with rebuilt or used parts.

I'm going to stick with the internal wastegate and a 1G BOV, at least for now. If I get boost spike problems I might switch to a FP o2 housing and Tial WG and BOV. We'll see how it goes. I'm of course going to be running around 12psi (I'll set the MBC or might just run WG pressure) until I can get some injectors and ROM flash action. I have lots to learn before I make that leap.

Question: Running 12psi on the 16G, is it time for a bigger fuel pump or do I not need that until I replace injectors?

I also ordered up the full kit from GroundControl and a pair of Ingalls 1 deg rear camber kits. Hopefully 1 deg of adjustment will get it done. The springs are 430 in front and 300 in rear. Trevor @ GC said this should be a bit more agressive but not sacrifice daily ride quality. I'm not doing auto-X or running the 1/4 mile. My suspension goals are to eliminate some wheel gap and refresh the 14 year old stock setup. I'm strongly considering doing the black plasti-dip on my SSR's but at 32, I might be too old for black wheels ().

I realize I dropped a bunch of money on a near stock setup but it seemed like a good idea at the time. Maybe in a few years when this isn't a DD, I'll go with something bigger. Let me know if any of my plans aren't kosher or if I'm looking at problems. As always, thanks so much to everyone for entertaining questions from a newbie.

The mhi evo3 16g is a great turbo made very good power. I actually got a low mile one that I'm selling with no shaft play etc. being I went to a forced performance billet turbo. You can do the pump then injectors but I highly suggest to just do both at the same time so your not beating up your stock injectors. Then if ya want, even a aftermarket a.f.p.r if going bigger then a 190 fuel pump I got a wal bro 255hp which was overrunning my stock fuel pressure regulator when I had it. I now got a fuel lab one. Your plans are totally fine if it's on a strong engine! Crush the blow off valve if going for high boost and you shouldn't creep. Do you got an aftermarket exhaust? And I also highly recommend a hallman pro rx manual boost controller it's a sweet controller and easy to use!

 

[jeffreywt]

The mhi evo3 16g is a great turbo made very good power. I actually got a low mile one that I'm selling with no shaft play etc. being I went to a forced performance billet turbo. You can do the pump then injectors but I highly suggest to just do both at the same time so your not beating up your stock injectors. Then if ya want, even a aftermarket a.f.p.r if going bigger then a 190 fuel pump I got a wal bro 255hp which was overrunning my stock fuel pressure regulator when I had it. I now got a fuel lab one. Your plans are totally fine if it's on a strong engine! Crush the blow off valve if going for high boost and you shouldn't creep. Do you got an aftermarket exhaust? And I also highly recommend a hallman pro rx manual boost controller it's a sweet controller and easy to use!

I'm running a regular Hallman Pro (non RX) at the moment.

Exhaust is currently 3" cat-back but I'll be changing the down-pipe soon to accomodate a wideband o2 sensor.

My question about the fuel system really answers itself I think. I'm assuming that if I am running similar boost to stock (12psi, which I will be until I can tune), then stock fuel system should suffice. Good tip on the FPR, I will probably do injectors, FPR, and fuel pump as a package once I am ready to go beyond stockish boost levels.

 

[95_gsx_2g]

I'm running a regular Hallman Pro (non RX) at the moment.

Exhaust is currently 3" cat-back but I'll be changing the down-pipe soon to accomodate a wideband o2 sensor.

My question about the fuel system really answers itself I think. I'm assuming that if I am running similar boost to stock (12psi, which I will be until I can tune), then stock fuel system should suffice. Good tip on the FPR, I will probably do injectors, FPR, and fuel pump as a package once I am ready to go beyond stockish boost levels.

That's fine only difference in the regular and rx is the ceramic ball. I think it just reacts a bit faster. Yes stock fuel system (pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator will be totally fine at that boost level. And yep it's best to do all at once so your not doing double work and they kind of all go together like cams better valve train porting and sheet metal intake manifold for instance