97 GSX Eclipse help, rough idle, and a strange noise.

[Zufelt]

Hi guys, I am a current owner of a 1997 GSX. I bought the car about 2 days ago wanting to learn more about mechanics and tuning. After buying the car 1/4th a mile later code p0300 comes on, random misfire. Unfortunately the guy told me "well you signed the papers" go figure. The idle is rough, and will sometimes bog and die. My other concern is when accelerating concider ably 4-5000rpm I hear a slight metal noise.. Unfortunately I can't explain in detail more than that. The mechanic here seems to think its the injectors. After an oil change today Mobil 1 Synthetic , i smelled something from the engine, but there is no overheating. Im unsure if the teo problems are related. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. The car mods are as listed.

ENGINE
Crowler 272 intake and cams
3" exhaust piping with Megan's racing muffler
Walbro 255L in tank fuel pump
Magnector wires and NGK plugs

Drivetrain
Rebuilt trans by shep racing. (60000 miles ago)
Act 2600 clutch with street disc
Aasco light weight aluminum fly wheel
Stainless steel clutch line

The car has 107k miles on it currently. My question is would aftermarket injectors be the next thing I would need? I don't believe any tuning has been done. I appoligiZe for asking a question my first post, I wasn't planning on having to work on the car till I furthered my knowledge.

 

[shakeandbake]

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

I'm not saying this is the answer but here is a list of things that could have gone bad. It could be a bad sensor or a burnt exhaust valve.

 

[undefined0000]

How much PSI are you pushing?

Boost and fuel injectors go 1 in 1.

15psi is about the MAX we 1g owners can push with our 450cc injectors. Hopefully someone with a 2g can come by with the flow-rate if it is different.

Is there an EEPROM computer with DSM link?

It seems like you're experiencing knock, if while you're accelerating hard at those high RPMs and you hear the noise and it should also feel like you're letting off the gas while you still actually are.

 

[Metal Health]

1. running a wally 255 without a fpr will cause you to run too rich.
2. find out what cc injectors you are running.
3. not to steer you away from mechanics, but most dont know our cars after mod have been made.
Try to get these few things down first and we can proceed to the next step.

 

[Zufelt]

How much PSI are you pushing?

Boost and fuel injectors go 1 in 1.

15psi is about the MAX we 1g owners can push with our 450cc injectors. Hopefully someone with a 2g can come by with the flow-rate if it is different.

Is there an EEPROM computer with DSM link?

It seems like you're experiencing knock, if while you're accelerating hard at those high RPMs and you hear the noise and it should also feel like you're letting off the gas while you still actually are.

It is the stock 12 psi. I can't for sure say its not a knock, but why would it not knock a idle? The sound is not audable from the passenger seat, only the driver.

1. running a wally 255 without a fpr will cause you to run too rich.
2. find out what cc injectors you are running.
3. not to steer you away from mechanics, but most dont know our cars after mod have been made.
Try to get these few things down first and we can proceed to the next step.

What fuel pump regulator would you suggest?
I can't seem to find what CC the stock injectors are for a 97 GSX
And also I understand that, it's just hard to find a turbo car in at least decent condition, that isn't beat to hell or rice out. I figure it can be my learning car.


Thanks for the replies guys! Hope I can get it resolved soon!

 

[undefined0000]

It is the stock 12 psi. I can't for sure say its not a knock, but why would it not knock a idle?

With boosted cars, knock will occur at higher RPMs because of fuel related issues. Crappy Octane ratings is an example. We use higher octane gas because it is actually less combustible. Compression and heat its self can cause combustion (diesel) and diesleing is bad for us. With boost leaks, the mixture can lean out and cause nasty issues as well. If you've got leftover money. grab a wideband. Is there an AFPR installed on the car along with that wally 255?

Also I believe any FPR will do, it just comes down to what style you like. Reading your post more now that I'm on the computer. Bad timing can cause bogging and death, My plug wires were installed incorrectly when I got my car, swapped them in the right order and boom, great. Just hope you didn't jump teeth. You can check timing with a timing light from autozone or your place of preference. I know I've spilled antifreeze everywhere in my engine bay, and after a good drive, the antifreeze combined with oil will smell like vomit. Are you smelling cooked oily or maple syrup?

 

[Zufelt]

With boosted cars, knock will occur at higher RPMs because of fuel related issues. Crappy Octane ratings is an example. We use higher octane gas because it is actually less combustible. Compression and heat its self can cause combustion (diesel) and diesleing is bad for us. With boost leaks, the mixture can lean out and cause nasty issues as well. If you've got leftover money. grab a wideband. Is there an AFPR installed on the car along with that wally 255?

Also I believe any FPR will do, it just comes down to what style you like. Reading your post more now that I'm on the computer. Bad timing can cause bogging and death, My plug wires were installed incorrectly when I got my car, swapped them in the right order and boom, great. Just hope you didn't jump teeth. You can check timing with a timing light from autozone or your place of preference. I know I've spilled antifreeze everywhere in my engine bay, and after a good drive, the antifreeze combined with oil will smell like vomit. Are you smelling cooked oily or maple syrup?

Thanks for the useful info man, I really wish I knew someone local that knew more about performance. Smells more like oil, burnt something.. I have a report of the smog if that would help determine if the timing is off, it's being checked wensday for the plugs wires 02 sensor etc. Well, unfortunately I wasn't paying attention and my parents decided to put the low grade in after purchasing te car. I am assuming the "knock" might be my fault.. If this is the case, what would I be looking at replacing. The engine light was on prior to that. I was four hours from home at 10, no way to syfin, or get rid of the lower grade gas. We later put in 91 when the tank was lower, about half

 

[undefined0000]

Thanks for the useful info man, I really wish I knew someone local that knew more about performance. Smells more like oil, burnt something.. I have a report of the smog if that would help determine if the timing is off, it's being checked wensday for the plugs wires 02 sensor etc. Well, unfortunately I wasn't paying attention and my parents decided to put the low grade in after purchasing te car. I am assuming the "knock" might be my fault.. If this is the case, what would I be looking at replacing. The engine light was on prior to that. I was four hours from home at 10, no way to syfin, or get rid of the lower grade gas. We later put in 91 when the tank was lower, about half

87 gas will do that most def. That could be the problem there. You might want to try and find something higher than 91 to put in there. I go hunting around for 94 gas wherever I can find it. Never really had to fix this problem before because with ALL of my cars I used the highest grade gas, but maybe some octane booster will help? Not sure what that stuff is or what's in it, but if it really is octane, then it should do the job. I would honestly drain the nasty 87/91 mixture in there and put it in a N/A car or sell it to my roommates. While its getting checked. See if they can do a compression test for you, and I would suggest doing a boost leak test. Its hard to find a shop that will do that, the only place really would be a place that works on SEMIs because they deal with turbos all the time, but even then, they don't like to touch our little cars. Take a picture of your engine bay and post it here as well. If you have a 255 and NO AFPR, I will have to smack the guy you bought it from.

 

[Zufelt]

87 gas will do that most def. That could be the problem there. You might want to try and find something higher than 91 to put in there. I go hunting around for 94 gas wherever I can find it. Never really had to fix this problem before because with ALL of my cars I used the highest grade gas, but maybe some octane booster will help? Not sure what that stuff is or what's in it, but if it really is octane, then it should do the job. I would honestly drain the nasty 87/91 mixture in there and put it in a N/A car or sell it to my roommates. While its getting checked. See if they can do a compression test for you, and I would suggest doing a boost leak test. Its hard to find a shop that will do that, the only place really would be a place that works on SEMIs because they deal with turbos all the time, but even then, they don't like to touch our little cars. Take a picture of your engine bay and post it here as well. If you have a 255 and NO AFPR, I will have to smack the guy you bought it from.

I do as well, as well as synthetics. It's got about a little less than 1/4th of a tank now. I will be putting 91 in there very soon. Would you still suggest draining the leftover? Also I had two other questions, one is is there ever to high of an octane, and second if 91 octane creates less combustion how come you don't go slower. Being that there's less combustion. I will take a picture, it's night time here so is there a certain area you'd like me to take a picture of?

 

[undefined0000]

I do as well, as well as synthetics. It's got about a little less than 1/4th of a tank now. I will be putting 91 in there very soon. Would you still suggest draining the leftover? Also I had two other questions, one is is there ever to high of an octane, and second if 91 octane creates less combustion how come you don't go slower. Being that there's less combustion. I will take a picture, it's night time here so is there a certain area you'd like me to take a picture of?

The whole octane thing is complicated. Basically all of the levels will ignite with a spark the same, but the lower octanes will also combust with high compression. I don't think there's ever too high of a octane. I think our cars will run on 110 octane if you want them to. If you can get a picture of the whole bay, that would be nice. You can take it whenever you want, depends on how fast you wanna fix the issue. I'll be up until 5 a.m. EST. but this site never sleeps. If you can get 93 or 94 octane in there to fill it up, that would be less work.

 

[Zufelt]

87 gas will do that most def. That could be the problem there. You might want to try and find something higher than 91 to put in there. I go hunting around for 94 gas wherever I can find it. Never really had to fix this problem before because with ALL of my cars I used the highest grade gas, but maybe some octane booster will help? Not sure what that stuff is or what's in it, but if it really is octane, then it should do the job. I would honestly drain the nasty 87/91 mixture in there and put it in a N/A car or sell it to my roommates. While its getting checked. See if they can do a compression test for you, and I would suggest doing a boost leak test. Its hard to find a shop that will do that, the only place really would be a place that works on SEMIs because they deal with turbos all the time, but even then, they don't like to touch our little cars. Take a picture of your engine bay and post it here as well. If you have a 255 and NO AFPR, I will have to smack the guy you bought it from.

The whole octane thing is complicated. Basically all of the levels will ignite with a spark the same, but the lower octanes will also combust with high compression. I don't think there's ever too high of a octane. I think our cars will run on 110 octane if you want them to. If you can get a picture of the whole bay, that would be nice. You can take it whenever you want, depends on how fast you wanna fix the issue. I'll be up until 5 a.m. EST. but this site never sleeps. If you can get 93 or 94 octane in there to fill it up, that would be less work.

There is ony 91 here, I will try to get it up ASAP thanks for being so helpful man.

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Hopefully this will help out, it's dark here took them at jack and the box haha. Thanks for any help in advance!

 

[undefined0000]

That looks really nice! I'm jealous. Your afpr would be in the circled area (usually), if you don't know what it looks like, its like a boost gauge, but just goes up to like 100psi (I'm not being condescending, just don't know your level of knowledge).

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Its possible to put it in another location, but with not having any line tucks or anything, there isn't room anywhere else.

 

[Zufelt]

That looks really nice! I'm jealous. Your afpr would be in the circled area (usually), if you don't know what it looks like, its like a boost gauge, but just goes up to like 100psi (I'm not being condescending, just don't know your level of knowledge).

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Its possible to put it in another location, but with not having any line tucks or anything, there isn't room anywhere else.

Hey thanks man! And no it's good you explain it just as you did, my car knowledge is lacking so it def helps. Being that there isn't one there I would assume that's apart of the rough idling? Since its most likely running rich? Tha ma for being helpful man, I TRUELY do appreciate it. Help a noobie learn that's what I'm here for!

 

[undefined0000]

Yup. I assume you looked? and yes, the fuel pressure is probably through the roof, get one ASAP.

Ebay FPR I've never really looked for them because I got my car with one, but I'm pretty sure this is exactly the one I have, I could be wrong though. Just plug the hoses in and tune for 43.5 psi. You tune by loosening the nut and using an allen wrench to rotate the adjuster, You can crank the engine once so the fuel pump shoves gas through to give you some initial pressure. They might ship it all the way backed down, that will let you know. There's probably a more efficient way to do it, but thats how I would. You just start the car, remove the vacuum line and tune. There will be a separate solenoid that controls the air going to the stock fpr, but you can bypass that by taking a line right from the intake manifold to the afpr.

 

[Zufelt]

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This hose like tube, that is circled is somewhat pinched, it's not fully circle. I put an X on where it is pinched, sorry for my lack of knowledge haha. I'm sure "a hose like tube" isn't very helpful.

Yup. I assume you looked? and yes, the fuel pressure is probably through the roof, get one ASAP.

Ebay FPR I've never really looked for them because I got my car with one, but I'm pretty sure this is exactly the one I have, I could be wrong though. Just plug the hoses in and tune for 43.5 psi. You tune by loosening the nut and using an allen wrench to rotate the adjuster, You can crank the engine once so the fuel pump shoves gas through to give you some initial pressure. They might ship it all the way backed down, that will let you know. There's probably a more efficient way to do it, but thats how I would. You just start the car, remove the vacuum line and tune. There will be a separate solenoid that controls the air going to the stock fpr, but you can bypass that by taking a line right from the intake manifold to the afpr.

I'll purchase one as soon as possible, I was also told the noise I was trying to describe was the misfiring. I wasn't aware you heard misfiring, rather than feel it. I will look up how to install the FPR so I can get a feel for it. Youtube here I come.

 

[undefined0000]

looks like cruise control. Not 100% sure, cause I've only worked on 1gs, but it runs to a box that then has a throttle line running out of it.

 

[Zufelt]

looks like cruise control. Not 100% sure, cause I've only worked on 1gs, but it runs to a box that then has a throttle line running out of it.

You sir, are a genious. I have to press the cruise control a few times to get it to activate. I will look into a FPR very soon, and youtube how to install it. I was told today by the mechanic the noise I was trying to explain was the misfiring, he's not to performance smart thought because he told me the shhhh sound during shifting between gears wasn't normal. I thought that was just normal blow off valve noise. So any FPR? There isn't some fancy 20,000 dollar one I have to get?

 

[undefined0000]

You sir, are a genious. I have to press the cruise control a few times to get it to activate. I will look into a FPR very soon, and youtube how to install it. I was told today by the mechanic the noise I was trying to explain was the misfiring, he's not to performance smart thought because he told me the shhhh sound during shifting between gears wasn't normal. I thought that was just normal blow off valve noise. So any FPR? There isn't some fancy 20,000 dollar one I have to get?

Lol, don't give me too much credit, someone else could come in here and it could be the wiper motor for all I know, the 2g is slightly different than the 1g. Between gears, you should hear pshhhhh or depending on the blow off valve (BOV more commonly seen here) KAPSHHH. That noise should cause a great deal of excitement within you . Just keep in mind with these cars, what you spend is really what you get. Cheap AFPR could go bad in a day or a few months. Getting one from an accredited manufacturer could prove a better lifetime.

 

[Zufelt]

Lol, don't give me too much credit, someone else could come in here and it could be the wiper motor for all I know, the 2g is slightly different than the 1g. Between gears, you should hear pshhhhh or depending on the blow off valve (BOV more commonly seen here) KAPSHHH. That noise should cause a great deal of excitement within you . Just keep in mind with these cars, what you spend is really what you get. Cheap AFPR could go bad in a day or a few months. Getting one from an accredited manufacturer could prove a better lifetime.

OH so my windsheild wipers, if I get aftermarket ones will gain me 50hp? Lol, kidding.. or am I .. No, but in all seriousness would you have a suggestion on one? I do like the BOV, makes me feel like a BA going through my small town of hondas.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Lol, don't give me too much credit, someone else could come in here and it could be the wiper motor for all I know, the 2g is slightly different than the 1g. Between gears, you should hear pshhhhh or depending on the blow off valve (BOV more commonly seen here) KAPSHHH. That noise should cause a great deal of excitement within you . Just keep in mind with these cars, what you spend is really what you get. Cheap AFPR could go bad in a day or a few months. Getting one from an accredited manufacturer could prove a better lifetime.

Nah, it's the cruise control. I just took mine out the other day. Definitely the cruise.

 

[Zufelt]

Nah, it's the cruise control. I just took mine out the other day. Definitely the cruise.

Thanks for the verification, did you replace it? If so where were you able to get one? Figure I might as well fix it before I forget what it's for.

 

[Funfettie]

i think what your circling and x'ing in the pics is the upper intercooler piping. should be about 2.5" large rubber wapped hose between the blow off valve and the throttle body elbow. as long as its not super kinked, you should be alright for now. down the road you should replace it with aluminum or stainless piping. but that comes later. this hose if used to guide compressed air from the turbo to the engine after it passes through the intercooler.

As for the AFPR, i have a fuel lab unit that has worked quite nicely for several years. there pretty much all the same design from what i know. check out the classifides here too as well as ebay.

you should also replace your spark plugs, just to eliminate that possibility of that being an issue. i never thought plugs could make a car run worse, but man, can they ever. I used these $25 diamond fire E3 things years ago, and my 2g ran like complete crap. Swapped in NGK's and it ran perfect. a LOT of dsm'ers use NGK BPR iridium series plugs. just go to any parts store and ask for NGK BPR 6es plugs. gap them to around .025-.027. hope this helps

 

[AngelOfPassion]

i think what your circling and x'ing in the pics is the upper intercooler piping. should be about 2.5" large rubber wapped hose between the blow off valve and the throttle body elbow. as long as its not super kinked, you should be alright for now. down the road you should replace it with aluminum or stainless piping. but that comes later. this hose if used to guide compressed air from the turbo to the engine after it passes through the intercooler.

Yeah, that huge hose looking thing is for air from your intercooler. But right where your "x" is, that is the cruise control cable. It's smaller and goes to the black box on the firewall next to your throttle body.

 

[Zufelt]

i think what your circling and x'ing in the pics is the upper intercooler piping. should be about 2.5" large rubber wapped hose between the blow off valve and the throttle body elbow. as long as its not super kinked, you should be alright for now. down the road you should replace it with aluminum or stainless piping. but that comes later. this hose if used to guide compressed air from the turbo to the engine after it passes through the intercooler.

As for the AFPR, i have a fuel lab unit that has worked quite nicely for several years. there pretty much all the same design from what i know. check out the classifides here too as well as ebay.

you should also replace your spark plugs, just to eliminate that possibility of that being an issue. i never thought plugs could make a car run worse, but man, can they ever. I used these $25 diamond fire E3 things years ago, and my 2g ran like complete crap. Swapped in NGK's and it ran perfect. a LOT of dsm'ers use NGK BPR iridium series plugs. just go to any parts store and ask for NGK BPR 6es plugs. gap them to around .025-.027. hope this helps

Assuming your refuring to the bottom one? That's rather large, the X is to just mark the kink. If possible I'd like to know where to replace it if that's the case, would help things run smoother I'm sure. I haven't pulled the spark plugs YET because I don't have a torque wrench and I don't wanna tighten them to much, assuming the .025-.027 is the amount of pressure I should put on it. I'll look into buying one I'm sure it will come in handy. Lots of things to buy when i get paid haha. I will also try to find a fuel lab unit AFPR to put into the car. I just want to make sure, if it's modded that it's modded to correctly. No shortcuts for me.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Thanks for the verification, did you replace it? If so where were you able to get one? Figure I might as well fix it before I forget what it's for.

No, I just took it out and put in a non cruise throttle cable. Really easy. Our cruise controls tend to break easy and cause stuck throttles. While they are easy to fix, I preferred to delete mine completely. If it's not giving you any issues, just leave it alone. You have bigger things to worry about at the moment. Just put it on your list.