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'97 Eclipse Engine Removal from Transaxle

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crippledgimp

Probationary Member
8
0
Mar 23, 2011
Chicago, Illinois
Hi, I'm EXTREMELY new to working on cars, but I've done a lot of research (I learn best by just researching and trying) on swapping out an engine for a 2G Eclipse. I've read in a couple different threads and websites, that you can remove the engine without having to take out the transaxle.

This is the approach I took to swapping out my engine. I've removed all connections, hoses, etc. and I'm to the point of hoisting out my engine. I've unscrewed and removed the left roll mount for the engine, and also removed all the screws to the bell housing. The engine obviously pried apart from the bell housing, but now I'm having the difficulty of trying to get engine out (right now it's fully supported by the engine hoist). I've read that you can remove the engine without having to take off the crank pulley, but apparently it is easier to do it with it off. I haven't taken the crank pulley off yet, I figured I would ask before I start taking stuff apart.

So my question is does anyone have a recommendation/advice/tips on the easiest way to remove the engine at this point? The engine probably has about 1" of room to move left or right.
 
Have you tried removing the radiator and rear transmission roll stop mount? It also helps to unbolt the powersteering pump and move it to the side. Basically the more things you can get out of the way the better.

An engine balancer bar will be very helpful as well.
 
Have you tried removing the radiator and rear transmission roll stop mount? It also helps to unbolt the powersteering pump and move it to the side. Basically the more things you can get out of the way the better.

An engine balancer bar will be very helpful as well.


I've got the radiator and fans out, also threw the power steering pump and a/c pump over the side of the car so they're out of the way. I haven't tried the rear transmission roll stop mount, will this help move the tranny around a little more?

I also do have an engine leveler. Everything is disconnected I'm just trying to find a way to shimmy the engine away from the tranny.
 
loosen the transmission mounts and you will be good to go..!!
You can also use a jack to lift the transmission..make sure not to break anything..play with it..!!

Remember that Removing is always easier then putting it back..!!good luck..!!
 
personally i find it easier to pull engine and transmission out together. Split your upper ball joints pop the axles out and drop the t-case. Might just be me though.

Edit*** you have no t-case to drop.
 
Putting it back in is a PITA!!! That 2g tranny is a sob. My advice is get the one motor mount hand tightened and remove all mount brackets from the tranny except the top one. Line up the tranny with a jack and tighten up the top mount bolts and then put the other mounts on. It is very difficult to install the tranny with the mount brackets on!!
 
Any suggestions for when putting the new engine in then? Or is it just going to be tougher overall?

its tougher overall.!!
But remember that when you put it back that you play with it..move the transmission up and down...don't completely remove the mounts just loosen them..!
in my opinion is easier to pull the engine only..!!
 
personally i find it easier to pull engine and transmission out together. Split your upper ball joints pop the axles out and drop the t-case. Might just be me though.

Edit*** you have no t-case to drop.

+1... I pulled my engine in 3 parts, head, block then trans and I put it back in all assembled as one and it went in really easy. This was with a manual though I'm not sure if you have the auto or not.
 
I have had mine out 3 times now and the easiest way by far was using a car lift and dropping the engine and tranny out through the bottom of the car with the tranny bolted to the engine. but when i did pull it out of the top the first time the tranny stayed in and it makes it so much easier to have the radiator out and the engine stripped right down so you have more room to play with. i have always taken the crank pulley off just easier 1 bolt and you have another inch left to right. once its all unbolted push the engine to the passenger side and kinda slide the passenger side of the motor forward so it ccomes out at an angle.

that worked the best for me but jus make sure you have high grade bolts holding the lift supports on or you will have a very bad day! good luck! and take your time if it takes 2 days it takes 2 days easier to quit while you ahead and tired instead of pushing through and making a stupid costly mistake...
 
Lucky SOB :thumb: For those of us in the real world we have to pull it from the top. :D

hahaha wish it was mine its my boss's lift in his heated shop but im like a third son to him so i guess it is kinda mine LOL. but i def prefer that to a chain fall in the barn like i did the first 2 times
 
I pulled mine out threw the top engine and transmission together LOL. Probably wasn't the best way. Had to take the Hood off and actually getting the transmission to clear was kind of a pita. I sure hope its easier to get back in as a unit then it was to get out.
 
Okay this is where i sound like the complete new person who doesn't know what they are doing.

My cousin came down and we pulled off the crank pulley and got a bunch of clearance on the passenger side of the engine. (this is where you'll have to bear with me on technical terms) The fly wheel clears the transmission completely.


<a href="http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_20110328_210703.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/IMG_20110328_210703.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


But, I have this silver cylinder looking object inside of the bell housing that is moving WITH the flywheel. I feel like this is preventing us from getting it out. (Go ahead make fun of my awesome hole haha)

<a href="http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_20110328_210715.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/IMG_20110328_210715.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

The engine moves easily from side to side and back and forth, but as soon as we try to lift it out, a lot of weight is put on the transmission and we finally reach a point where it looks like something is about to bed or snap. I'm trying to figure out what it could possibly be stuck on. Any help would be amazing, this is the last obstacle we have...
 
hey dude support the transmission with a jack and completely unbolt it you can then pull the tranny over to the drivers side just enough!! hope this helps out! and that hole looks alot like mine did haha how many rods did you throw?

oh and take the support under the car off 4 bolts 2 in the front and 2 in the back and that will help moving the tranny over too.

oh and you dont have to remove the axles just get the tranny so you can move it over the axles will have enough side to side play to move over.
 
Last edited:
HAHA That Hole Brings Back Memory's!!!!:D

P.S Drop the back end for the tranny.......And for gods sake unbolt the flywheel from the torque converter! :ohdamn:

HAHAHAHA, this is where you can clearly tell I'm still learning. I got everything out I appreciate the help, now that i'm putting the new engine in I've noticed a difference between the 2 fuel rails. The new one is from a '97 and the one I pulled out of my blown engine is from a '98 engine.

The difference between this one is it has a hose connection on the passenger side, (which my '98 does not have) and a what looks like a return line(?(which my '98 does not)) on the driver's side. This is the '97.


<a href="http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_20110329_193948.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/IMG_20110329_193948.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_20110329_194037.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/IMG_20110329_194037.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


On the '98 it has no return line(?) on the driver's side and no hose connection on the passenger side. This is the '98


<a href="http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_20110329_193813.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/IMG_20110329_193813.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_20110329_193930.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/jbrandner88/IMG_20110329_193930.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


So my question is, in theory, I should be able to just take off the fuel rail from the '98 engine and put it on the '97 with no problem?
 
yes replace the fuel rail..you will be ok..remember, when you have two different engines..always use the parts that you original one had...its the system that will work on you car..!!...you could have done that with the two engines out of the car..!!
 
I have had mine out 3 times now and the easiest way by far was using a car lift and dropping the engine and tranny out through the bottom of the car with the tranny bolted to the engine. but when i did pull it out of the top the first time the tranny stayed in and it makes it so much easier to have the radiator out and the engine stripped right down so you have more room to play with. i have always taken the crank pulley off just easier 1 bolt and you have another inch left to right. once its all unbolted push the engine to the passenger side and kinda slide the passenger side of the motor forward so it ccomes out at an angle.

that worked the best for me but jus make sure you have high grade bolts holding the lift supports on or you will have a very bad day! good luck! and take your time if it takes 2 days it takes 2 days easier to quit while you ahead and tired instead of pushing through and making a stupid costly mistake...

This is the best and easiest way to do it......
 
Okay... Hopefully this is the last time I have to post for this swap. I've got the engine lowered and in the vehicle, and I've bolted the 4 bolts from the flywheel to the torque converter. But now I cannot wiggle the engine to meet with the bell housing bolts. The engine is lined up perfectly for the bolts to fit into the bell housing, but there is about a 1/2 inch gap between the block and the tranny. No matter how much I push and shove or raise and lower both the tranny and the engine I cannot get them to meet exactly. Any ideas or advice?
 
Okay... Hopefully this is the last time I have to post for this swap.
Let me say first off, you are doing fine with the questions. You are asking specific questions without a lot of fanfare and fluff. Each time you do as much as you can and when you come across a sticking point, you then ask the question pertaining to the sticking point. Couldn't be any better :thumb:

I've got the engine lowered and in the vehicle, and I've bolted the 4 bolts from the flywheel to the torque converter. But now I cannot wiggle the engine to meet with the bell housing bolts. The engine is lined up perfectly for the bolts to fit into the bell housing, but there is about a 1/2 inch gap between the block and the tranny. No matter how much I push and shove or raise and lower both the tranny and the engine I cannot get them to meet exactly. Any ideas or advice?
Did you by any chance pull off the torque converter? If so, did you put it back on with two clicks?

If there is any chance that the torque converter is not all the way oN UNBOLT THE ENGINE AND BE SURE THAT SHE IS ON CORRECTLY! (See how I put that in big letters because its so important :p ). If the torque converter is not on properly, you will ruin it.

With that being said, even those that did not put them on all the way, were able to get their block to mate. So I would be curious to see that "that" would be the problem. If you are absolutely sure that there is nothing in the way of the two coming together (and the splines are engaged etc. just slightly wiggle the crank pulley bolt a little to be sure it is engaged.) check to be sure that you don't have an exta dowel pin in between. Oftentimes that is a problem when switching engines. You may be mating lower dowel pin to lower dowel pin.

MB
 
With that being said, even those that did not put them on all the way, were able to get their block to mate. So I would be curious to see that "that" would be the problem. If you are absolutely sure that there is nothing in the way of the two coming together (and the splines are engaged etc. just slightly wiggle the crank pulley bolt a little to be sure it is engaged.) check to be sure that you don't have an exta dowel pin in between. Oftentimes that is a problem when switching engines. You may be mating lower dowel pin to lower dowel pin.

MB


When you say wiggle the crank pulley a little, should the crank pulley not move at all once it is installed correctly? I finally got to my engine today and got everything flush and bolted on, I went in a star pattern around the bell housing. When the screws to the bell housing were about halfway out I could turn the crank pulley with ease. Now that I tightened everything down it won't budge, is this normal?
 
no, its not normal. Did you seat the torque converter correctly. Thats what my problem was did the same thing as you. Spacer plate is extremely iimportant as well. If that torque converter isnt in properly u can mess up the pump. I did cause i forced them together and didnt have the patience to figure it out the first time. Good luck and keep us updated.
 
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