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95gst real lean problem

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zachwilliams02

Proven Member
183
0
Dec 30, 2012
marietta, New York
hi I have a 95 eclipse gst. I got it from craigslist a week or two ago and I am continuously noticing things on it new. im not mad of the problems because I got it for 800 bucks. but anyways, it has an autometer af gauge which is I believe a narrowband, now I know that they are completely useless but this one may actually be reading right. I took out my plugs at school to find them white so that was a key sign. then I just blew a headgasket believe it or not doing 30mph in fith gear. so I took off the head to find a hole melted between the wall on cylinder one and two on the head. also the two valves on I think the intake side are white on every cylinder., they may be the exhaust id have to go look at it. anyways I just bought a used head for it and im getting a gasket set soon. what can I do so this doesn't happen again. little info, stock fuel system, 16lbs of boost, one day I accidently gave it to my father running at 23 lbs, but I don't think he beat on it so it prob didn't get higher than 16 or 18. still help!
 
ye im definitely going to get the arp head studs but the problem is that i'm 18, my first car, i'm paying 1600 a year for insurance with the help of my parents, and I just started a job as a dishwasher so i'm kinda strapped for cash. i'm definitely going to get a tuner but I think it may be something else. the cel is on for last time I checked three codes, one was coolant temp always to low, one was for a fuel trim code, the generic one where it doesn't tell you if it is lean or rich, and I cant remember the third one. I have the codes written down I just have to find them.
 
This just happened to a friend of mine. He melted his head in the same area from running super lean. I'd recommend finding a replacement head, clean off any liquid hot magma from the block, if any, go with ARP's, get a wideband, new plugs, and at least SAFC. I don't see a turbo upgrade or injectors listed in your mod list. What size injectors are you running?
 
i just checked them both actually they are the stock 450 injectors and a tdo5h turbo. I think it is a 14b

I got the codes just keep in mind these are from autozone..... my school lost the key to hook up to our snap on scan tool. p0170 fuel trim bank one, p0302 cylinder two misfire, p0125 coolant temp always to low
 
ok so I got a cylinder head off of craigslist and I was going to throw it on, before that I have to swap my cams. well, the intake cam has some scoring on the first place right by the timing gears. should I have it re surfaced or what im already going to take it to be machined flat. also any ideas about how much a machine shop would cost to do this. I know I could search for this and probably find an answer so if you don't know off of the top of your head, don't go out of your way to find out.
 
Are they stock cams? If they are stock I would just slap a diff set in. If they are upgraded cams have it polished. Have the head checked and surfaced if needed. If you have a stock turbo and stock injectors you should not need to tune it if your running stock boost. Boosting to 20psi on a 14b with stock injectors could very easily smoke your piston.
 
well the cylinder head that I bought is from a non turbo. from the hours of research ive done the only difference between the two is the cams. so, im taking the cams out of my head considering they are fine and putting them in the other head. I just want to figure out how to not burn another hole in it. im only running 15 to 17 pounds yet my narrowband reads lean all of the time.... ik they are crap but they are supposed to jump around. the only time mine jumps is when shifting other than that it is at a solid lean at the last two bars
 
Better check out the fuel system then.

Injectors
Fpr
Fuel filter
Fuel pump/sock

Also not to bash on you but are you sure the af gauge is hooked up correctly?
 
It's because it's a narrowband sensor it can only read to a certain point which isn't much. Take it out its useless and just a pretty light flashing while your driving LOL. This is why the first few mods recommended by all of us is a boost gauge and wideband. And as for the codes your coolant temp always being low isnt really a good thing I would check to see if the thermostat is even in place. For the fuel trim code sounds like one of your o2 sensors might be shot . You know you beat on this thing and you already mention boost levels above stock keep the boost stock till you have proper mods. I'm not hating on you but I got my first dsm when I was 19 and I know exactly how I drove it fast and like I stole it, think about it. :) And the best advise I can give you once you get it back together go over a extensive pm list leaving no stone unturned LOL. Also since you have the head off you better be replacing the timing belt, water pump and all pulleys, if you have balance shafts still then he the belt and pulley for that a well. New plugs and wires and fuel filter, make sure all vac lines are ok and connected.
 
You shouldn't be running anything over 14psi on the stock fuel system. No wonder you're running lean.
 
Everywhere I go tells me that I can run up to 18 on stock everything. And I have all of the turbo supporting mods. But a tune and injectors.now since I'm short on cash ill look into the o2 sensor and clean the Maf as well but I only have one o2 for the actual computer.... 95 no cat;)
 
Definetly not 18psi bro, I would say 16psi would be the max safe limit on stock fuel system. Sure you can run 18 heck you can run 30 if you want, you just won't be doing to long and its not a good idea without proper mods and a way to tune. Start reading here dsmtuners upgrade path it's proven so use it as a guide bro. Tech Guide - DSMtuners And you say you have all the turbo supporting mods but your missing the most important ones. A wideband, way to tune, and supporting fuel system for higher boost.
 
yea I know that ha just money now, well I have the car almost all back together from it blowing the first time. all that is left is to torque the head, torque the cams, that coolant line that connects to the head needs to be attached, fuel rail, wiring and to reset time, oh and to do an oil change..... right im like half way done:( but I had to swap cams and that was a pain one question tho, little ball that the rocker rest on has a hole drilled in it for oil passage, well on my old head those holes are much bigger than the one on the new head, also my oil light was allways on for low oil pressure, could that be why?

oh and it has a fuel pressure regulator on it but im not sure which one it is. i know it isnt adjustable, it is flat and blue anodized alumnium. it almost looks like a bov but it is over on the right and has fuel lines attached to it. could this be my cause, ill try to get pictures up of the engine and how everything is going with it
 
got it back together and running! but it runs like garbage. there seems to be some sort ok knock from the cylinder head any ideas?
 
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