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95 engine in a 97 shell

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talonesi95t

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Sep 5, 2009
prosser, Washington
OK i just put a engine from my 95 talon into a 97 shell. I was planning on installing a 1g CAS but the wires coming out of it were old and brittle causing one to break off. So i put the stock 97 CAS on.
The problem im having is i get no spark on cylinders 2 and 3 using the 97 ecu, and when i switched to the 95 ecu i lose spark on cylinders 1 and 4.
I got code p0340 so i bought a new CAS and installed it, yet still have the same issue. Also tried a different PT. What should i check next?
 
Ive tired swapping the plug wires. But if im using the stock 97 ecu and CAS you would think it should work just as it did factory. I left the stock 95 Cam sensor on the engine, so i guess i can try to wire that up, but i am still going to try using the 97 CAS. Going to check for continuity for CAS to ECU. It has sensor has ground but got dark last night and didnt check for power, is the blue with red wire the trigger? Should i have constant power at the red wire?
 
1g
Your CAS has four wires going to it, a 12v signal and ground the other two are signal wires for the TDC and CAM inputs to the ECU. To test them you'll have to pull the CAS off the head and turn it by hand, this will allow you to test the signals with a multimeter as you spin it. Both the CAM and TDC signal wires should read up to 5v as you spin the CAS, the CAM signal wire pulses 4 times per revolution and the TDC pulses 2 times.

Heres a pin out of the CAS connector going to the ECU so you can check continuity of the wires and know which wires to test for the CAM & TDC pulses.

ECU Pins to CAS connector Pins -
  • CAM Signal wire (BRN/YEL): Pin 21 at the ECU to Pin 3 at the CAS (4 pulses per revolution)
  • TDC signal wire (BLK/BLU): Pin 22 at the ECU to Pin 4 at the CAS (2 pulses per revolution)

2g
CAS Testing:
  1. Disconnect the sensor and measure on the engine harness side with the key in the "ON" position.
    • BLK (Pin 1) - Ground (0 ohms to ground)
    • BLU/RED (Pin 2) - 4.8v to 5.2v
    • RED (Pin 3) - 12v
  2. If everything checks good with a multimeter plug the CAS connector back in and check voltages with the engine cranking.
    • BLU/RED (Pin 2) - 0.4v to 3.0v (If your reading 0v while cranking then the CAS is dead)

CPS Testing:
  1. Disconnect the sensor and measure on the engine harness side with the key in the "ON" position.
    • BLK (Pin 1) - Ground (0 ohms to ground)
    • BLU/WHT (Pin 2) - 4.8v to 5.2v
    • RED (Pin 3) - 12v
  2. If everything checks good with a multimeter plug the CAS connector back in and check voltages with the engine cranking.
    • BLU/WHT (Pin 2) - 0.4v to 4.0v (If your reading 0v while cranking then the CPS is dead)

To get to test the signal with the engine cranking your going to have to stab through the insulation on the wire, use really sharp multimeter leads or stab a needle into it and then touch the meter lead on the needle.

As far as spark plug wires go...
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Correct, 4g63t

Ok i just got back from working on the car.
my results on the CAS where
Blue/red wire while cranking was 180.20 mV not even a full volt.
Crank sensor checked out fine. I also checked for continuity from the CAS plug to the ecu connecter, and there was.
I tried a 95, 96, and the stock 97 ecu with all the same results still had the mV reading on all. I took off the cover of the CAS and saw what i would call a crown. Nothing else. Seemed to simple. I'm pretty sure something else go's in there.
I was about to come home when i just thought i would wire in the 95 cam sensor for kicks. And cranked it and what would you know, it started up.:D I currently have it running on the 95 ecu.
Pros- it fired up
Cons- I still dont know why i couldnt get it to work with the 97 CAS and 97 ecu
 
Last edited:
Updating
My bro calls me and says the car is acting up. I take a look and found a vac leak. but the engine runs rough, pulled the codes and i get the same P0340 as before.
I'm running the 95 cam sensor hard wired in to the 97 harness, with 95 ecu. I'm running out of ideas.
 
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