90 tsi won't start

[Project Draven]

well just as the title says my car i just recently purchased won't start......its a 1990 talon tsi when i looked in the engine bay i noticed the fuel rail was loose....and the cas wires have been hacked and it was left loose .....i think i know what the little superchips boost graphic runs to now....but i am getting fuel and it appears i am getting spark....timing is dead on......my question is the way the cas is sitting on the head the wires are facing down i just wanna know if this is correct because my other 1g head i have in the garage has the wires facing up but it is a non turbo head ......are the non turbo and turbo head cas the same?.....because i am thinking my cas is way out of time and i am recieving spark at the wrong times because this car won't even start with starting fluid could someone please help me get my car running


thanks in advance

brandon

 

[Project Draven]

well i decided to try and get the car running last night but she won't even run for like 3 secs and when i was up looking at the wires i notieced that my negative terminal is getting hot? and the positive isn't...any ideas ???

 

[Project Draven]

also when i turn the key on i hear this funky sound like 8 clicks really really fast i was like WTF

 

[eclipsh]

Sounds like you have a short somewhere in your wiring harness. Check all the wires you've been messing with and see if anything looks screwy. Best of luck.

Oh, and disconnect the negative terminal of your battery while you're doing it. Wouldn't want to fry yourself.

 

[Project Draven]

haha yeah that wouldn't be good after i do all that i wanan know can i use a test light to see if i am getting power to the injector harness i don't have a noid light so i don't see any harm in using the test light on the connectors is this ok like i don't wanna fry anything that might already be fried......and if i have no power to them then where should i look next...............and the terminal i think is bad because i tightened it up and i can pull it off like nothing

 

[TALONTRAX]

Those rapid relay clicks usually indicate a failed ecu . . .

 

[Project Draven]

perhaps but its coming from under the hood i was thinking it was my tps or isc because it only does it when i turn the key on for the first time after having the battery disconnected afterwards never hear it again

 

[Project Draven]

i guess an ecu can go bad without any visable damage and no smell

 

[TALONTRAX]

I`ve seen it where a failed ecu. caused buzzing & clicking behind the console, near the ecu. If your noises are coming from under the hood, then it`s something else.
Before, you said the car would run on ether . . . Then it seems to be a fuel delivery problem of some kind. Did you ever check the fuel pressure?

 

[Project Draven]

first on my list of things to do today after lunch i got a few buddies coming over to lend a hand and possibly another ecu from my buddys friends 90 turbo fwd will that work at least to see if it starts it up and i am kinda strapped for a budget so what can i use to measure the fuel pressure like a water gauge etc.

 

[Project Draven]

and can u use a test light on the injector connectors so i can see if i am getting power and which side is the positive on the connectors? i just wanna know so i don't fry anything

 

[eclipsh]

Please be polite and use proper punctuation and grammar. It makes your posts so much easier to read and shows respect for other members.

The test light shouldn't hurt anything. Black should be ground on the wires.

*sigh* I already explained how to make a cheap fuel pressure gauge. Go reread my first post in this thread. I don't want to be rude but please, if you are going to ask for help, listen when it is offered.

 

[Project Draven]

sorry about that i must have overlooked that and thanks for the reply

 

[Project Draven]

well i have power to the injectors so next is the fuel pressure test

 

[eclipsh]

No problem, I was a little cranky earlier too At any rate, it is good to hear you are getting power to your injectors, that is one possible issue eliminated.

Let us know how the fuel pressure test goes. I won't be surprised if that is your short or dieing relay and is causing the starting issue. Does the clicking noise come from the passenger's side of the car?

Oh, and while you're buying that pressure gauge, go get the parts for a vacuum leak test. It should only cost a few bucks. I used a rubber pipe end cap and a threaded nipple I could add a nut and washers onto. It works like a charm

 

[Project Draven]

well i am going to go buy the gauge now and see where we are here ...........i swapped the bleeder banjo bolt that was on the fuel filter to the original .........no idea why the person had it on there in the first place.....but just to see i had my friend crank the car with the line off and fuel is shooting out the filter........ so at least that won't need replaced

 

[TALONTRAX]

Getting power to the injectors doesn`t necessarily mean that they`re firing. You have to put a noid light across the 2 injector pins, & check for ground signal (blinking) during cranking. I know you don`t have a noid light, but a test light will work for this. If you have a blinking light during cranking, the injectors are pulsing. Next step is to check fuel pressure.
Let us know . . .

 

[Project Draven]

well i couldn'ty get the gauge to work just made a lil bit of a mess so i am gonna try again later today.....but i tried something just for the heck of it i took the old cas apart and redid the broken wires to it and i plugged it in now my injectors are working but i still only have one coil firing yet again but with the 91 non turbo cas i had wired up i had the coils firing but i didn't get any pulse from the injectors so i am kinda stumped.....

 

[Project Draven]

well fuel pressure is good.....i somehow fried the ecu while i was testing the cam sensors it sounded like one of the cylinders fired then i had nothing .....no boost gauge to 0....... no check engine light ....no nothing.....so i opened it up and low and behold there was a tiny black mark on it by the silver bracket towards the connectors.......so i went down to the local scrap yard and found one ecu....it supposedly has 95,000 miles on it picked it up and plugged it in the gauge goes straight to zero now and check engine light goes on then goes out.....i am getting fuel..... but i am still just getting one coil pack to fire.......i've tried so far.......swapped coil packs......they both work with one of my cas sensors but i get no injector pulse.....swapped like at least 4 cas's......replaced the power transister....and just replaced the ecu yesterday........what should i look for next???? i am thinking i need to look at the wiring harness....but what am i looking to test on it i need some more help everyone i got till wednesday to get this car goin or i am screwed......all help is and will be greatly appreciated...


thanks in advance
brandon

 

[Project Draven]

i should also point out that when the key is on with this new ecu i keep hearing this constant clicking coming from near the throttle body area

 

[Project Draven]

well we tested every ignition component of mine on my buddys car and everything worked on his we also tested his ecu did the same thing as mine in my car because now all i am getting is this clicking sound coming from my coils but no spark so i am looking into wiring issue so someone please tell me where i should start in checking the engine harness

 

[eclipsh]

Well, you can either get out the shop manual and start testing each wire after tracing its connections, or replace the whole harness.

Either way it is a bummer. Wish we had more culprits to look at but at least you know what it is now.

 

[justink08]

Did you ever get your car running? Updates?

 

[Jonny]

Im having the same prob man I have a '95 Talon, I have no spark on 2 cylinders. (cylinders 4 &1). Both run off of one coil pack. So I went to Auto Zone, got a new coil pack, put it on and still have no spark. Then put on a new control module, and still no spark. I went through all the wiring and made sure all the connections were good and cleaned them up, and looked timming over about three times, and still no spark. Did a full compression test, and there is 120 psi on all four cylinders. The only thing I can think of that could be wrong, is the Cam Angle Sensor, not sure if it sends a multiple singal from one coil pack to the other, but the car will run on two cylinders and i have a new crank sensor the one senor i didnt try is the cam senor if that dont work im going to try my ecu if u find out whats up ### email

 

[Jonny]

Did you get it runing