90 tsi won't start

[Project Draven]

well just as the title says my car i just recently purchased won't start......its a 1990 talon tsi when i looked in the engine bay i noticed the fuel rail was loose....and the cas wires have been hacked and it was left loose .....i think i know what the little superchips boost graphic runs to now....but i am getting fuel and it appears i am getting spark....timing is dead on......my question is the way the cas is sitting on the head the wires are facing down i just wanna know if this is correct because my other 1g head i have in the garage has the wires facing up but it is a non turbo head ......are the non turbo and turbo head cas the same?.....because i am thinking my cas is way out of time and i am recieving spark at the wrong times because this car won't even start with starting fluid could someone please help me get my car running


thanks in advance

brandon

 

[TALONTRAX]

It`s possible. You also might have in installed 180 out, inverting the injector signals from1,4 to 2,3. To set it right, you have to line up ALL the timing marks, & install the cas. with the little tiny marks on the rotor shaft lined up with the mark on the housing.

 

[Project Draven]

i already lined it up with the notch and mark o nthe housing at tdc so i wil try to swap those wires back
and seee what i get
i'll post in a momant after i try it

 

[TALONTRAX]

here you go

 

[Project Draven]

swapped the wire back the way i had it the first time started seemed like it was gonna idle good then it just sputtered and died also on ether it won't start without ether

 

[Project Draven]

well i removed my ecu and this is what it looked like looks all good from here no leaking caps no burns or black spots anywhere on both sides so what else could be causing this i mean this is a major headache

 

[TALONTRAX]

If it won`t run without spray, you have a fuel pressure/delivery problem. Now you are gonna have to check your fuel pressure. If it`s low, It may start & idle, but it won`t accellerate, or not start at all. You need to connect a fuel pressure guage in the pressure line to the rail(rig up a t fitting or something). I think it should be 40-44 psi.

If the pressure is ok, there is an injector problem(not pulsing, or incorrect pulse width), possibly an ecu.or cas problem.

 

[Project Draven]

perhaps i should go ahead and put the original cas back on and try to see if my injectors will be firing because when i had each cas out and plugged in i could hear the sparking i could hear the high whine of the fuel pump but should i have heard anything else?

 

[TALONTRAX]

Another thing you should do is hook up a scanner or logger, & check your values(coolant temp,tps,etc.). A bad coolant temp.sensor could lean out the inj.pulse enough to not start a cool engine, or a bad maf. sensor would act like that. Or, try disconnecting 1 sensor at a time while trying to start. I`d do the coolant temp first, then the maf. second.

 

[Project Draven]

just curiousity i recall hearing a air hissing sound from under the hood when its chugging could a vacuum leak cause some of this problem i mean it sits there and chuggs till i go to give it gas then it just dies but as for the sensors i will try to get a logger to check it out hopefully someone i kno has one i can use

 

[TALONTRAX]

A major vacuum leak will give you problems. First, it will substantially lean out the mixture, & it will run lousy. Second, If you have a map.sensor(I`m not sure if the 1G`s do), the low vacuum will drastically effect the map. value. Find & fix the vacuum leak(s) first before continuing to diagnose the electronics . . .

 

[Project Draven]

it was the line coming off the intake manifold for the bov i fixed it i havn't tried to start it yet

 

[TALONTRAX]

That`s a good save. Start it up & see how it runs.
Btw: you need to set your timing with a timing light, since you had the cas.out.

 

[Project Draven]

hmm i need to find a timing light so it can't be run till i set the timing?

 

[Project Draven]

i tried to swap the wire back the way i had it and now i can't get the wire order i had before so i need to figure that out then i need to start it up and see what i got so far

 

[TALONTRAX]

It will run with the timing out of spec, but I wouldn`t drive it under boost until the timing is set correctly.
There are 4 wires coming out of the cas:
Balck = ground
Red = key on batt +
White = cam position output (injector sequence)
Yellow = crank position output

 

[Project Draven]

yeah the cas i am using has

red---key on power
black---- one thick
black----one small
yellowish white---

this is a 91 cas that i wired up to the existing harness

 

[TALONTRAX]

Like this?

 

[Project Draven]

kinda like that but the connector is on the cas same location though just has the connector where the wires would be

 

[TALONTRAX]

Does it run on the original cas? I would use that one if it`s good.

 

[Project Draven]

the original cas was only firin 1 and 4 coil this cas fires both coils so maybe i will try to swap them back and see what i get

 

[TALONTRAX]

I have a good one if you need it, It`s just like the one in the pic . . .

 

[Project Draven]

alright pm me and let me know the details.....thanks

 

[yamaha4life89]

Try changing the coil pack.The next step after that check biss screw turn it all the way in then 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 turns out. If idle is still bad turn the car on and spray carb. cleaner around all vacc. lines,tb,and ic piping etc. If your idle goes up when spraying theres a leak.

 

[eclipsh]

Woah... I just read through this thread and I don't know quite where to begin. There is some good advice and some not so good.

First off, before replacing any electronic equipment try testing it using a multimeter. Your Haynes, Chilton's or factory repair manual will outline all the methods for doing so. The test for a coil pack in particular is very easy. Testing parts instead of just running out and buying new ones saves you money, time and energy. Besides which, you don't necessarily know if the new part is fully functional so you might cause more problems. It is rare, but new parts can come broken and you'd never know it. TEST TEST TEST...

Reading through here, something I'd check right off the bat would be voltage at the fuel pump. It should be up around battery voltage when the car is idling. If it is low then you may have a short in the lines going to the fuel pump. This can happen inside the fuel tank as well if someone installed a pump incorrectly. It happened to my car and had me completely stumped.

If the voltage to the pump is good it can't hurt to check your fuel pressure too. It is a lot cheaper and easier than replacing your CAS, ECU, coil pack etc.

The base pressure with the FPR vacuum line removed should be around 37 psi on a 1g turbo car. Running with vacuum it should be around 33-35psi.

If you're on a tight budget, go get a water pressure gauge from the plumbing section in your hardware store. It will cost about $5 along with a T-coupling and some barbed fittings to hook it up temporarily. Buy an extra two inch length of rubber fuel line, pull the fuel return line from the hard line under the clutch master cylinder and hook your gauge up in between. It'll take five minutes tops and you'll know if you really are getting enough fuel to your rail. These gauges aren't very accurate but it will at least give you an idea.

If that tests good (37psi), then check each of your fuel injector clips to see if they are getting a signal. You can do that with a needle-type volt meter while cranking the car over. If any of them aren't getting a signal you likely have a bad ECU or wiring harness. The wires at the injectors can be brittle and break so be careful. While the caps are off (and the car is off too) you can also hook a 9v battery up to each injector and see if it opens. You'll hear it click if it does. It is just a simple electro-magnet inside so you can't hurt it unless you leave the battery hooked up for a long time and overheat it.

A simple vacuum leak tester will tell you if you have major leak issues. A big leak, like the BOV line you found, WILL prevent the car from running for long. Just hook a rubber cap with a nipple to the turbo inlet and pressurize the system to 20 psi and spray everything down with soapy water. Bubbles and hissing will tell you where your leaks are. Look on VFAQ.com for detailed instructions on how to build and use a tester.

It also can't hurt to check your SMIC for fluid buildup. Though unlikely, if the car has been sitting for a long time it might be full of water and trying to suck all that air through is causing issues.

So... run some tests and see what comes back. Stop spending money on repairs until you know what actually needs to be fixed.

 

[Project Draven]

just great i just noticed that my timing belt is sorta walking towards the valve cover.............it seems tight on both ends so i don't know geez new problems coming out of the frame work