90 DSM dead... Head Gasket & Knock!!!

[flaatr]

So I'm fairly new to the forum... been lerking for a while.

Today I drove about 60 miles and the car ran great... pulled fine, temp needle top center... no issues. Got off the freeway and within a block the needle jumped (no I'm not kidding) to the red. I pulled over and noticed a sweet smell (not good). I got the fans on, dual 12" pullers, and got water into the system and got the temps down... now I have rod knock. Yes, FML

As I am new to DSM, I was looking for some advice. First the coolant problem... is there an known issue with the gauge? There is a lot of pressure in the coolant system now... I assume this is the head gasket... yes?

So friends... I need help!!!

The rod knock is a bad thing but it's not knocking toooo bad so I might, temporarily, pull the pan and slide in new bearings. I mean, what could it hurt? I know the engine is eventually gonna die, I'm not fooling myself.

I noticed there are many options for head gaskets... any favorites and why? I will throw in ARP hardware at the same time.

-Raffi

 

[92tsiawdguy]

Well if you blew the head gasket when it over heated then water entered the oil system. That will ruin oils lubrication properties. Thus causing a rod or main bearing to spin.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Blowing a headgasket is, sadly, common apparently.

What you need to do is pull the head, inspect the pistons, have the head and block surface checked for warps/dips, and repair the engine. You also need to drain your oil, drop the pan, and clean EVERYTHING. It should be safe, at this point, to check the bearings and whatnot. You can then inspect the possibility of having caused any type of scoring on the crank. If so then that will have to be fixed. If not, replace the bearings.

After everything is said and done, you then need to figure out why you over heated in the first place. What you likely did was upon blowing the headgasket, you lost a lot of fluid. The air where the sensor was could have been at the correct temperature, but when the thermostat opened and that boiling coolant rushed in, the sensor would have then 'jumped' to the now current temperature.

Likely, you thought you were fine... but in reality you were scorching the engine.

 

[nuclearr]

To answer the question about the gage. If you run the car low on coolant the gage will not work due to the sensor location in the water neck/ thermostat housing. When it is low on coolant the sensor just reads air, giving a false cooler reading.

I recomed geting a used engine. Then take your current block and save it for a rebuild.

 

[1990AWD]

I would also recommend the Mitsu MLS headgasket originally used on the Evo III; it's top quality. And ARP head studs but make sure that head and block is perfect for the MLS gasket.

 

[flaatr]

Thanks for all the responses... I like to see all the support! I got a couple more questions.

Is the MLS Gasket a dealer item and with ARP hardware will it hold over 20 psi?

What is a good source, besides cl, for used engines and how much should I expect to pay?

Do you guys have any places you recommend for parts? (letting my newbism show)

-Raffi