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6 Bolt Swap Lower Radiator Hose

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XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,994
88
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North Carolina
Alright, so this has been asked a hundred times, however, all of the answers are focused around cutting the counter weight off of the shifter arms. In my situation the radiator hose doesn't rest against the counter weight, it actually rests against the shifter cable where it connects to the arm itself. So, installing my intake causes the hose to press firmly against the shifter arm and thus doesn't let me shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th.

So, cutting the counter weight wouldn't solve my issue. I'm using a stock 2g lower radiator hose. Any alternatives?
 
Well to be entirely specific as I should have been - Intake is Injen. It's a 6 bolt block mated with a 2g head. 6 bolt water pipe.

Going to try a 1g lower radiator hose this afternoon.
 
Its very common for a one G lower hose to be cut about in the middle, a metal pipe insert is then placed inside where the hose was cut in half. This allows you to twist the hose to the exact shape to clear every thing. Then you end up with two hose clamps in the middle of the hose but that's no biggie.

Another option is to get a stick of stainless and custom make metal radiators hoses. That's what me and a friend ended up doin. Cut weld cut weld full stainless tig welded shiny ass show stoppin pus$sy poppin metal radiator hoses.

Oh, and the counter weight can be cut off with no ill side effects at all.
 
I'm aware that the counter weight can be removed, but stainless steel radiator piping? Hahah. I don't have the patience for that. I may try the cutting of the hose. Any idea of the size right off the top of your head?
 
Why not use the 2g thermostat housing on the 2g head, with the 2g lower radiator hose? I have a 6-bolt swap with 2g head and 6 bolt block, I used the 2g thermostat housing with the 2g lower radiator hose without any trimming of the counterweights whatsoever (if you still have the 2g thermostat housing). I have an extra one laying around somewhere.
 
heres a stainless hose, if you know how to tig its really not that big of a deal, its well plenty worth the effort as the upper hose can be shaped to go away from the hotness of the turbo header, the lower hose can be custom shapped to clear everything absolutley perfect.

sorry i dont have a good picture curently on my laptop of my lower hose, but the under side of the hose's both have bungs. my lower hose has two bungs in it. one just has a plug but the other has an additional pitcock-drain.

the stainless hose's can have nice little tricks like this added for things like after market water temp gauge sensor, or hose barbs screwd in to water feed a turbo or what ever.

the picture provided here needs to be zoomed in (sorry) but you can see the very nice "cut-weld, cut-weld" method of doin this. if i re-did my hose's id leave my bottom one alone as its perfect but id re-do my upper hose to incorperate a nice built in swirl pot.

i know, i know seems like alot of work, but if you got the goods under the hood why settle for a shucks p.o.s rubber hose? wish i had a picture of my lower hose, it would give you the perfect idea.

im sure if you get a 1G lower hose and cut it in the middle and re-cuppler it together with a round pipe insert like i earlier mentioned would work just fine though.
 

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heres a stainless hose, if you know how to tig its really not that big of a deal, its well plenty worth the effort as the upper hose can be shaped to go away from the hotness of the turbo header, the lower hose can be custom shapped to clear everything absolutley perfect.

sorry i dont have a good picture curently on my laptop of my lower hose, but the under side of the hose's both have bungs. my lower hose has two bungs in it. one just has a plug but the other has an additional pitcock-drain.

the stainless hose's can have nice little tricks like this added for things like after market water temp gauge sensor, or hose barbs screwd in to water feed a turbo or what ever.

the picture provided here needs to be zoomed in (sorry) but you can see the very nice "cut-weld, cut-weld" method of doin this. if i re-did my hose's id leave my bottom one alone as its perfect but id re-do my upper hose to incorperate a nice built in swirl pot.

i know, i know seems like alot of work, but if you got the goods under the hood why settle for a shucks p.o.s rubber hose? wish i had a picture of my lower hose, it would give you the perfect idea.

im sure if you get a 1G lower hose and cut it in the middle and re-cuppler it together with a round pipe insert like i earlier mentioned would work just fine though.

That looks ridiculously nice, but again I just don't have the patience. I've been taking this build slow...like 8 months slow, and I don't think I can talk myself into any more delays with it being this close and knowing I still have a few more hurdles to overcome such as the CAS wiring and setting up EvoScan/Flash.

At any rate, I found a hose that works great! It leaves the perfect amount of clearance, doesn't pinch, and routes fine. It's a tad snug on the lines themselves but nothing that can't be worked on with a little wiggling. I cut off the counterweight as the bottom of it would hit the hose and I just didn't like that.

The pictures attached show the shifter in 2nd, 5th, and also the intake snorkel installed. It actually doesn't touch anything and basically stays to itself.

SKU # 5196248
Part : 70783
 

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I just recently picked up a 95 gsx with a 6 bolt swap and i believe it still had a 2g lower radiator hose and what made my problem worse is that i have a 3 or 4 inch intake pipe so hose sat on top of the shift linkage rubbing very hard. What i found was a hose from i believe a 98 to 04 nissan pathfinder and a few other of their suv's the part number is dayco 71626cs. I can have pics up tomorrow, will work great for those with a larger intake as my situation.
 
I just recently picked up a 95 gsx with a 6 bolt swap and i believe it still had a 2g lower radiator hose and what made my problem worse is that i have a 3 or 4 inch intake pipe so hose sat on top of the shift linkage rubbing very hard. What i found was a hose from i believe a 98 to 04 nissan pathfinder and a few other of their suv's the part number is dayco 71626cs. I can have pics up tomorrow, will work great for those with a larger intake as my situation.


Could you post pics? I would like to see how this looks. I'm considering just purchasing a generic Ebay hose that is bendable and making it fit.
 
The hose is sitting right on my linkage and going into 2nd and 3rd is a pain. I have the FP 4"intake, which is already huge- So the hose has to come off the block a little before bending under the intake- causing it to sit on my shift cables. Like, right on them.

Was going to get some ebay hose and route it over the intake, or try to squeeze it between the intake and the block. Any suggestions?
 
i wish this stuff was posted in the 1G in a 2G how-to-build thread. Every thread says to use a 1G lower hose, then i buy it, and find out this problem after installation. Now its junk and i gotta buy another one.
 
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