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6 bolt swap and high idle

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2g6boltgst

Probationary Member
8
0
Jun 22, 2005
Vancover, Washington
Ok, 6 bolt swap is in my car and running grate, but some times the damn thing will randomly idle at 2000 rpms. Right now I have the TPS unhooked so I dont get Random missfires. So if I am able to fix the random missfires and hook the TPS back up, will this fix my idle problem? And how would you go about fixing this problem? I have heard there is some sort of sensor you can splice into the MAP.

Thanks
 
how bout' ya just plug the TPS in and see what it does ?
Ya can always clear the cel.
the only fix for the random misfire is a dsmlink.
the "pot" mod on the maf wire dont work very well.
 
If I plug the TPS in I get random missfires, so I leave it unpluged. So if I can fix the random missifres then I think I will be ablke to fix my idle because I can plug the TPS back in.
 
On the contrary for the POT mod it works very well for me I have ZERO RM since doing it and no tuning or running issues AT ALL with my car.

Others maybe have had trouble but it could be caused elsewhere at least try the mod before spending 600 bucks on dsmlink plus an Eprom ECU.

The pot cost me 6 bucks Canadian to do and was more then worth it.
 
ok, its strange, my car idles grate utill it gets to a sertin temp then it will idle at 1500 rpms, then if I shut the car off and start it again it wll ideal at 2000 rpms , if I shut it off one more time and turn it on, it will idle at 3000 rpms!!!!! but when the temp drops to under half it will idle prefect at 900 rpms. I dont get it!, pisses me off though.
 
Check your timing. If it is off, it may be causing your random misfire. Adjust the BISS screw and you can set your idle back to 750.

Brian
 
I have the same exact "problem". Just got the 6 bolt 2g running and it idles between 1200 and 1600. Will simply turning the biss screw lower the idle? If so, am i turning it clockwise or counter closkwise? I know its as easy as trying it but since these forums are here, why not ask before attempting.
To the people mentioning the isc, how often do these go bad? My 7 bolt was running perfect and i am using the isc from it, so what are the odds that it went bad during the swap?


Thanx
 
I have the same problem, replaced the ISC and adjusted the BISS screw, no help. Did anyone solve this problem yet?
 
Sorry I have to bring this one back from the grave.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same swap and TPS disconnect done.

I'd like to know what the guy that originally posted this thread did to fix it short of DSM link? I don't see how we could all be having the ISC and coolant temp sensor go dead right after doing the swap..... I'd also prefer to not do another hack with the POT mod if possible.
 
MyBeatGSX said:
Sorry I have to bring this one back from the grave.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same swap and TPS disconnect done.

I'd like to know what the guy that originally posted this thread did to fix it short of DSM link? I don't see how we could all be having the ISC and coolant temp sensor go dead right after doing the swap..... I'd also prefer to not do another hack with the POT mod if possible.


Plug your damn TPS back in. The car doesn't know it's idling so it's just adjusting fuel for the air it's reading. The Idle switch on 2G's is incorporated into the TPS connector, if it's not plugged in then the ECU never sees the idle position.

How do I get rid of the Random Misfire stutter and check engine light?
================================================================================

RM (Random Misfire)The ECU is flagging a misfire condition because the crank
sensor which originally drove the hyper accurate signal for the 2G ECU has now
been replaced and simulated by the not so accurate 1G CAS. The only remedies
for this symptom once you have it is:

1. Start over again and do it the original RRE way by modding the oil pump case
and keep the crank signal. RRE does not do it this way anymore, so why would
you?

2. Wire in a potentiometer on the barometric sensor wire going to the
ECU,thereby fooling the ECU into thinking you are at very high elevation (low
barometric pressure) so it doesn't check for RM. This sounds simple, but if you
don't tune the engine to compensate for the additional timing, you will end up
turning your piston's to goo which also kills your turbo. (Not a recommended
fix)

3. Cutting the TPS sensor wire. This actually appears to work for some
people,but since TPS is useful for data logging and tuning, its not a good long
term fix. This may also effect engine performance during times when the ECU uses
rapid changes in throttle position.

4. Buying DSMLink and clicking a tiny little checkbox which basically disables
the ECU logic that checks for RM.

There are your options I highly suggest number 4. :thumb:
 
There is a big long article somewhere in DSM Tuners that explains how to troubleshoot high idle speeds.
I had about the same problem and found the TB gasket to be leaking. If it was bad enough the MAF wouldn't see the air and give less/more fuel under boost/vacuum and it might misfire.
Just do a boost leak test to make sure this isn't the problem
 
Trust me, as soon as I have the money DSMlink will be the first thing I buy. I was looking for a quick fix for the mean time. I can't plug the TPS back in because the car will run like garbage and stall when the code gets thrown. So I guess I deal with it for now and keep saving up.
 
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