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4G63 Engine Specs?

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JrRelic

15+ Year Contributor
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Dec 28, 2004
Inver Grove Heights, Minnesota
Hey, does anyone know the dimensions and mounting spec of the 4G63 engine?

I found a 94 Eclipse without an engine. I know someone who CNC Machines engines in his garage. If I can find the dimensions and mounting points of the 4G63, he will help me cut one out. I have seen some of them he has done and they are tuff to break, if we are able to tune it half way decent I should be able to run 30+ PSI on a 9.5:1 CR (he has one that is close to that already).

Can anyone help? Once we get everything tuned and finished, I will help people who ask to get a hold of him.
 
30 psi at 9.5:1?? Hmm.. What all does he do to make 'em that strong?
 
Direct proting for 1 thing. Forged steel cylinder sleeve for another. Trust me they are engineered to be strong.
 
How much does he want to do all this? I live in Wayzata, so I won't have to bother with shipping or anything.
 
JrRelic said:
Direct proting for 1 thing. Forged steel cylinder sleeve for another. Trust me they are engineered to be strong.
There's nothing to be sleeved in a DSM block.

It's not a matter of strength, it comes down to what you can do with gasoline. You'll never see 30+ PSI on a 9.5:1 CR on gasoline.
 
First. It will be a whole new block, that will be made to fit in it's place.

Second. If tuned properly yes it is possible to do 30 PSI with a 9.5:1 CR. The problem lays that it is only possible to do with Direct Port Injection. Every other means of getting the fuel into the combustion chamber tends to generate a lean AF ratio, due to evaporation some of the fuel doesn't get mixed with air.

Most of why gas tend to pre-ignite is due to hot spots and higher air temps after the injection that raises the temp to about the 300 degree point of auto ignition. If the engine is direct ported, it can be set up so there is insufficient time for the fuel to heat enough to pre-insight.
 
So your saying he is going to create his own 4g63 from scratch? The engine already has "direct port fuel injection" so your not doing anything different there. It won't be possible to tune for no detonation on 9.5:1 CR with 30+ psi of boost on 93 octane. Assuming you get 93 octane out there. You will be running race gas all the time. If this is a track only car then by all means, have at it. If you want specs, I'm surprised nobody here has said this yet, but get a shop manual. You can get the CD manuals off ebay for $10.
 
Yes it will be a track car.

And I have all the manuals on the car that I can find. None of mine show any of that information.
 
30psi is possible, but you have to run it on race fuel and not on pump gas. pump gas is not safe to run 30psi, especially on a DSM motor. u also have to have about $30,000 to invest in motor and tranny components. o ya quit being a douche, and lay off the dsm's.

steve
 
This car is going to be primarily a track car. DSM's are in my oppinion the second best plateform in reguards to potenial, the first being the Toyota Supra.

The blower will only be set that high when on the track. I intend to drive it and not trailer it to the track. When it is street driven, the boost will be set no higher that 15 PSI to maintain some streetablity.

I really would like it if someone where able to answer the question posed in this thread. And not nocking me down for what I am trying to do.
 
No one mocked you any more than you deserved. Find a block in a junk yard and that will tell you all you need to know. While you're busy looking at that block...call up Magnus or AMS and ask them what a nice rebuild on it would cost...this will save you time and money because hopefully after looking at a 4g63 block you will understand why no one makes aftermarket blocks.

-T
 
First: None of the junk yards have a 4G63 block, near me. I have looked.

Second: I don't want to buy one.

Third: I know why an "aftermarket block" isn't needed. That block is build stronger than some big block V8's are.

Every place I have looked comes up empty with the information I am looking for. None of you know me, my intensions or ideas. I would prefur it if you have nothing of benifet to add, that you don't add anything at all.
 
your being very diffcult.
Just find a junk yard. I don't care if you have to go across the state. Find one, look at it like we've been saying be OMG that we are right about it and then call up Magnus like he said....it would be the quickest way for you. And the best help we could GIVE you.
 
The fastest DSM's use stock blocks...Are you trying to beat people like shephard?
 
JrRelic said:
First: None of the junk yards have a 4G63 block, near me. I have looked.

Second: I don't want to buy one.

Third: I know why an "aftermarket block" isn't needed. That block is build stronger than some big block V8's are.

Every place I have looked comes up empty with the information I am looking for. None of you know me, my intensions or ideas. I would prefur it if you have nothing of benifet to add, that you don't add anything at all.

Nice to see that someone else out there can think outside the box too. Most DSMers think that if you aren't doing what they are doing that you are stupid. That you don't know what you are doing.

I personally would redesign the head myself if I had the resources to build it. But they are right when they say to use a stock short block design. it is a well designed peice...it can take the abuse...

I would focus my energy on the things mitsu screwed up...the timing belt setup...the interference design...design a twin plug setup...maybe convert to a direct cylinder injection design...if you have a properly controlled direct injection system, you can run as much boost as you want (don't have to worry about pre-ignition)...etc...

Scott

Scott
 
Finally someone that understands!!!

But yes the head is one of the things that will go "under the knife." I have noticed some of those things could easily be improved upon.

I would also like to get everything but the alternator to no longer be driven by the crank. Significant power gains were achieved by taking the cooling fan off. It would be interesting to find out how much more power will reach the wheels, particularly considering that some of the things driven by belts don't need to be running much, even daily driving (i.e. power steering, A/C). (No comments on the last statement, I know they are driven intermittently.)

BTW: the primary reason I want to rework the block it to lighten it up. For roughly every 11-pound lighter a vehicle is, you get the same effect as adding 1 Hp. So I can make it lighter and more powerful, over all it's better.
 
JrRelic said:
Finally someone that understands!!!

But yes the head is one of the things that will go "under the knife." I have noticed some of those things could easily be improved upon.

I would also like to get everything but the alternator to no longer be driven by the crank. Significant power gains we achieved by taking the cooling fan off. It would be interesting to find out how much more power will reach the wheels, particularly considering that some of the things driven by belts don't need to be running much, even daily driving (i.e. power steering, A/C). (No comments on the last statement, I know they are driven intermittently.)

BTW: the primary reason I want to rework the block it to lighten it up. For roughly every 11-pound lighter a vehicle is, you get the same effect as adding 1 Hp. So I can make it lighter and more powerful, over all it's better.

Just FYI...all dsms come with electric radiator fans ;)

And if you want to lighten the block, why don't you just start with a stock one and mill away?...if you are thinking about going to aluminum, I would think about that again...I know everyone hates on cast iron, but it is perfect for high boost apps...great impact strength, awesome thermal conductivity and thermal capacity, great toughness, good elastic properties...there are other reasons oems use it other than cost...

Scott
 
I know they come with electric cooling fans. Almost every car since the late '70's early '80's have come that way.

Aluminum has 2x the thermal conductivty of iron or steel. But no I am not planning on using soley that. I will be using 52100 alloy steel for the cylinder housing, that alloy is used to make bearings and knives. And is one of the best alloys for "high wear" applications like that. And because iron and steel weigh close to the same lbs/ci, but that grade steel is stronger. I can cut out a lot of the iron and replace it with less steel than I took iron out, making it lighter, and stronger.

But you are right, iron or aluminum need to be on the outside of the block due to how well they take that type of punishment.

The 4G63 enigne is already a great engine. But if it can get stronger and lighter :thumb:
 
If he already has one running on 30 psi and 9.5 to 1, why are you asking for mounting dimensions???? He already has one, he should know it already. Besides why waste your money??
 
DV8 said:
If he already has one running on 30 psi and 9.5 to 1, why are you asking for mounting dimensions???? He already has one, he should know it already. Besides why waste your money??

not to but in or try to stir thigns up but some of the crap people say on here stupid. First, he wants to do something that no one else has or maybe really thought of much. So instead of people trying to help him (some have though as much as they can) they tell him to not do it, dont waste money and just go with what works. Why, so he can be like every other DSM'er out there? Nothing would be interesting if everyone went with the same setups all the time. Ya there are certain things that work best but whats wrong with trying something new? REGARDLESS of whether it would cost them thousands of dollars more than if they just went the way everyone else did.

I know this comes up all the time but remember, everything made for these cars were designed and tested somewhere and new things come out. The FP turbos were built because they wanted something large that would fit without screwing with the water pipe and making a new turbine housing etc. What if they asked people what they thought and then listened when others said, dont do it, costs too much. just go with what is known to work. That is bull crap.

Now for the question asked, the best bet you will have is to get a block from a junkyard or buying it from someone. Regardless if ou have to go across country to get one. NO ONE on here has the dimensions you are looking for. Actually I doubt anyone outside of mitsu has what you are looking for. Get a block, make your own casting etc of it, and figure out what you can change... like getting rid of where the balance shafts go as thats more iron not needed and more space. I believe what you are looking for can only be attained by getting a block. Unless you have some way of getting the casting molds mitsu uses, you wont find any dimensions anywhere (if you do, please share with others)

Now, go do or work on what you are doing. Who cares if no one else has ever done it or if there proven ways of doing something already. As the moto of my job goes

"Imagination at Work" Without imagination, nothing new will EVER be created. No new turbos, no more efficient designs, faster spooling, cooler running turbos, better intercoolers with less pressure drops, new materials etc.

Look at all the work Magnus did. You think they listened when others told them not to do stuff? or any of the other vendors? Buschur started somewhere. The archer brothers started somewhere. Tym Switzer started somewhere.

Good luck with your project and hopefully you find out something new, even if its not what you originally planned on.
 
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