$499 FMIC Kit, You run it?

[OneFastEclipse]

I stumbled accross this FMIC kit for 2g DSMs and was wondering if any of you run it. Seems like a great deal and the core looks pretty nice. Thought I would ask for your guy's inputs. http://www.forceinductionracing.com/lafrmoinkit.html

 

[98turbo]

The only problem I see it that the pipes aren't flanged at the ends to prevent your couplers from coming off.....other than that, it looks really good...

 

[JiveMasterT]

you know, it looks like a good kit, but it's not flanged for any blow off valve and that doesnt look like short route piping to me... the core looks pretty good, but the piping doesnt look too great. just my opinion.

edit...
also just noticed none of the pipes are beaded on the ends... higher boost applications will most likely blow the couplers off on a regular basis.

 

[joeracer321]

First, the core looks similiar if not exactly like the cheap chineese core they are selling on ebay for $120. Then notice they supply you with worm drive clamps. They do not work well under boosted applications. Next for those familiar with the cheap chincy chrome plated pipes, the chrome flakes off and the piping will begin to rust. Just my $.02.

 

[Bostedquest]

and the couplers are not reinforced either... no white dots...

 

[OneFastEclipse]

I guess the main question is does anyone see a problem with the core itself? It's decent size and should fill the bumper nicely. The probs with the pipes can be solved fairly cheap so that isn't a issue and I already have T-Bolt clamps.

 

[dnhieu]

I would say that is a great deal. just buy a pack of beer and have your buddy weld some beeds on it and you have a fmic that only cost 500 dollars and some change.

 

[red91gst]

I guess the main question is does anyone see a problem with the core itself? It's decent size and should fill the bumper nicely. The probs with the pipes can be solved fairly cheap so that isn't a issue and I already have T-Bolt clamps.

See if you can get a picture of the core from the endtank. Alot of the cheap cores have little to no fins inside for heat exchange, just basically an open tube. Just somthing to look at

Nate
SBR

 

[MaNGiNa24]

First, the core looks similiar if not exactly like the cheap chineese core they are selling on ebay for $120. Then notice they supply you with worm drive clamps. They do not work well under boosted applications. Next for those familiar with the cheap chincy chrome plated pipes, the chrome flakes off and the piping will begin to rust. Just my $.02.

Looks exactly like those cheap tube and fin cores runnin around on ebay, those pipes look like a 10 year old could bend them and they aren't beaded.

But if you want cheap, it'll sure as hell out perform a stock sidemount, but won't yield the performance of a quality bar and plate core. You can bring the pipes to any shop that deals with pipe bending and they could either flare out the ends or weld a bead. You can get a dozen t-bolt clamps on ebay for close to 30 bucks and i wouldn't worry about the silicone couplers.

If you want cheap you'll get it, but I'd prefer a short route kit that'll go strait from the I/C outlet up to the TB without all the bends.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

that is the same core as the one that street imports sells by some chinese company. I have personally seen three of those with the endtanks blown clean off.

 

[skinnypimp]

besides that the intercooler looks shitty, force induction has a bad name on the dsmtrader. i've read several posts were they scammed people.

 

[Nayr747]

Looks exactly like those cheap tube and fin cores runnin around on ebay

The core is obviously bar and plate... Yes it's the same ic that goes for around $200 on ebay. Here's a pic from the side.

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And you can bead the ends yourself real easy. From RRE:

Welded Beads
Weld a circle or at least three to four section of beads around the end of the pipe. Make sure they are ground and finished kind of smooth so that the weld bead will not cut up the hose while sliding the hose over the end of the pipe.

Epoxy
Clean up the end of the pipe, no oil or paint at all. Rough it up a little with at least 80 grit sand paper, rougher (36 grit) is OK too. Mask off a stripe of exposed pipe. Run a bead of thick epoxy around the pipe. While the epoxy is still a little wet, pull off the tape. This will leave a bead of epoxy around the pipe end that will help keep the hose from blowing off.

 

[my_gst95]

I run that ebay core ($190) on my 1g and works solid at 25psi on my setup. I made close to 11 runs on the dyno back-to-back without signs of air temps rising. Works fine for my To4b. I'm sure you could get together pipes and hoses and better clamps then the remaining 299 you'd have to spend with that kit.

my_gst95

 

[devlish]

I run that ebay core ($190) ... I'm sure you could get together pipes and hoses and better clamps then the remaining 299 you'd have to spend with that kit.

same here (street imports core), no problems yet on 18psi, runs strong to redline, no noticable heat soak. for a budget price and decent looks, i got all my pipes done locally for under $100, and bought some couplers and clamps from RRE. i'm happy so far with it.

however, the kit mentioned, i agree with having the pipes beaded. i had a friend weld a bead on mine, doesn't look the greatest, but it's solid! besides, it's under couplers anyways and holds strong on a leak test at 20psi for quite a while. for a budget kit, it looks good just get the pipes beaded.

as for the short route piping... i think it's controversial. i talked to both RRE, SB, and Buschar before doing mine, and all said pretty much that same thing: you won't notice hardly any difference in performane with the short piping, or going the stock UICP direction. little harder to route, and more pipe, but performance wise, you'd be hard pressed to notice the difference.


~Kurt

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Why would you pay 500 for that? When you can get the intercooler by itself for 200 or less on ebay. Are the pipes, couplers, and cheap clamps worth 300 to you?

 

[devlish]

Why would you pay 500 for that? When you can get the intercooler by itself for 200 or less on ebay. Are the pipes, couplers, and cheap clamps worth 300 to you?

those pipe aren't, unless you get them beaded. however, all the parts are in place, no shopping. i think i had about $75-100 in pipes, about $40 in couplers, and maybe $25-35 in clamps. worst case, $200 plus beading and welding for free from a friend.

but for me... the powdercoating set me back a bit though

see pics of the finished prod here, sorry if i'm hi-jacking the thread
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184518

 

[Thomas91169]

That FMIC can be had off ebay for around 200. its the same one I run and since i got one, each of my freinds with dsm's have gotten them.

you can grab 2.5" piping from www.magnumforce.com. get yourself.......

(3 qty) 2.5" U Bends in 6" radius, Mild Steel
(1qty) 2.5" straight pipe, 5 feet.

then mock up the fmic and piping. youll have to do a few cuts, so hopefully you have a table vice and a hacksaw or sawzall. then mark where your pipes need to be welded, and have either a buddy or muffler shop weld them up and add beads at the end. shouldnt cost more than 40 bucks for welds, free if you or a buddy can do it. you wil need to go to home depot and get some metal hanging strips(the ones with the holes in them, bout a inch wide) and some screws and hang the fmic that way. theyre easy to bend and twist to get to work for you. oh and btw you might want to paint or powdercoat the piping after its welded and cut. i havent and mine is starting to rust, its been 6 months.

heres my setup. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/509528/7

total for my fmic setup was something around 320 if i remember. i laugh at those spending 1000+ on one, just for a name.

 

[MattnGsx]

You could build, buy, whatever that exact kit for $342 shipped, saving yourself $158 bucks plus shipping. All you have to do is cut a couple of pipe.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7978720964&category=33742
160+44sh= $204
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7978856667&category=38634
110+28sh= $138

 

[Nayr747]

You could build, buy, whatever that exact kit for $342 shipped, saving yourself $158 bucks plus shipping. All you have to do is cut a couple of pipe.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7978720964&category=33742
160+44sh= $204
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7978856667&category=38634
110+28sh= $138

The couplers in the second link are kind of crappy though. I have those on my intake but it doesn't see any pressure. If it were me I would buy the ebay IC, then get some mandrel bends like Thomas91169 said and splurge on some nice couplers. Man I need some money!

 

[devlish]

RRE sells intercooler hose by the foot, it's the nice nylon reinforced stuff. something like $12/foot i think. that's good stuff.

 

[blackGSX2g]

I did what Thomas91169 did and got pipes from Magnum Force, but I only needed to order 2 of the U-bends. I was able to use my aftermarket UICP and hack it up to fit the shortrouted piping. I agree that you will probably not notice a big difference between shortrouting and stock routing, but it was far easier to shortroute it on my car. Plus, I can run a cooling duct up to my air filter through the stock UICP hole.

In short, I would not buy the kit. My FMIC setup cost like $275 shipped total for everything (except maybe a few T-bolt clamps here and there). It's all a marketing thing, people like having everything all in one package. If its worth it to you to have everything all included for double the price of what it should be, then go for it. Otherwise, go here and get the cheaper piping.

http://www.magnumforce.com/ubend.asp

 

[MattnGsx]

How heavy are those u-bends?

 

[Nayr747]

I just thought of something. If the pipes are gonna rust on the outside then there gonna rust on the inside too. For exhaust pipe it probably doesn't matter but I would think you would get rust going into your engine with ic pipes made of mild steel.

 

[guitarXgeek]

I just thought of something. If the pipes are gonna rust on the outside then there gonna rust on the inside too. For exhaust pipe it probably doesn't matter but I would think you would get rust going into your engine with ic pipes made of mild steel.

Exactly. Aluminum is probably the best piping to use for intercooler pipes. Mild steel is a cheap alternative, but not at all worth the very few bucks you saved from not going with aluminum. There is a reason that all the vendors use aluminum piping in their kits, you know

 

[Nayr747]

So where's the best place to get the aluminum bends? Is it harder (cost more) to weld aluminum pipes than steel ones?