461/1000 - Long term build

[slugsgomoo]

slugsgomoo submitted a new DSM Profile :

461/1000 - Long term build

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[slugsgomoo]

slugsgomoo updated 461/1000 - Long term build


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[iceguru1114]

I love that you are autocrossing this car. What class are you running?

 

[slugsgomoo]

I actually have some plans to autocross but that was actually at a drag racing event called "NW Street Car Challenge". It had dig & roll racing to 1320 & 1600' and was pretty fun.

My car is preposterously laggy for autocross though.

 

[slugsgomoo]

slugsgomoo updated 461/1000 - Long term build


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[92gsxbafaro]

was that the one out in bremmerton? any plans on coming out to the one this spring?

 

[slugsgomoo]

I'd like to, but I doubt I'll be coming to the race in spokane, it's simply too far to risk going without a way to bring the car back if I break it. I'm looking forward to some west side events though, or possibly even Renegade in Yakima.

 

[slugsgomoo]

Just a short video clip I took of the car doing a 2nd gear pull

 

[GST with PSI]

Nice, man. I'm assuming you're getting the tune worked out? How's the motor doing?

 

[slugsgomoo]

motor is really tight, runs well. I'm not really tuning much more out of it at this point, since my injectors are 1000cc & at 48psi base, I'm running 100.8% duty cycle and that's not quite at redline (car is now healthy to 9500, log was breaking up at 8100). Still healthy AFRs and the car seems happy so

Also worth mentioning that this past fall I installed some brakes that are capable of dealing with what the T67 can bring...

So I took it out for a spin this weekend, but mostly it's just been in winter mode.

 

[GST with PSI]

Your build is one of the few I could drive over my own, Andrew. Absolutely clean, and every detail is done right.

Any plans to make the shootout this year?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Nice color and wheels.

 

[familyMAN]

Love the last pic

 

[slugsgomoo]

So after 5 years, and not that many miles of 2.0L goodness, I pulled the motor and sold it to a local to go into a 2G auto car, hopefully he's able to make some good times with it. The car was definitely fast, but I have had a 2.4 sitting around partially assembled for the last three years and I needed motivation.

New setup will be a 10.5:1 2.4L with a 2g head, some other happy hooey to go along with that. I'll still have the HKS manifold with the T67 because old school is... well cheap because I already own it.

Also converting to a manual master brake setup, using twin Tilton MC's and a Wilwood balance bar. Hoping that turns out the way I want it to, but I'll probably hold onto the stock lines, prop & master until I decide I love it, before I sell them, just in case.

 

[slugsgomoo]

So I haven't done a ton in the last two years, partly because when I made the last post I had a kid who was under 2 months old, and life got busy. In the meantime I did a gut to the studs/rafters/joists remodel of my main bathroom... Y'all know how it goes.

In any case, the brake upgrade is done, and I'm adding a pic to this post, but the whole set of pics is on imgur and I don't feel like reposting, so click here

Finally, this setup is probably not easily duplicated, and realistically, the benefits versus something like an Ostar setup may not be huge- and that's cheaper and less complicated (and basically bolt in), so YMMV.

There's some interesting tech stuff I've learned throughout this though:

I will say, for anyone staying on power assist brakes, or going to the Ostar setup Craig has (liv4psi/mygsx2120), an adjustable bias valve (especially with a remote to adjust from the cabin) would be a big upgrade over the stock proportioning valve. Wilwood proportioning valve with remote bias adjust (definitely cheaper on summitracing though!). You'll also need one of these bad boys to handle the rear lines since there are only 3 output ports (2 front, 1 rear)

From talking to a few folks with adjustable bias on their racecars, generally you adjust bias towards the rear until you start getting rear lockup under hard braking, and then you adjust back towards the front a bit. It should result in getting the absolute maximum braking performance you can, since you're not under utilizing the rear. TBH, other than having to build lines (either SS or hard lines) to make it work, that's not really any more expensive than an OEM ABS delete, and you get a big performance perk IMO.