350whp

[krummel21]

Alright I've been reading threads and eveyone I've one has either said that the Evo 3 could do this and that it couldn't. What Turbo would I need for this goal and what supporting mods could get me to that point.

 

[DSMSpyder99]

your gonna need more than a 16G for 350WHP on pump gas and stock internals. You are going to need a TD06 20G or a T3/T4 50-Trim. Check out the tuning guide

http://dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/

 

[Generation1JeY]

Big 16g is capable, better choice would be a 20g.

If u have the money for supporting mods and u want as much power as u can get then go with the 20g, its worth the extra money.

Supporting mods:
-190 fuel pump (250 with a fpr)
-680< injectors
-SAFC or DSMlink
-FMIC
-2.5"< Turbo-Back
-ported o2 housing
-datalogger for monitering engine vitals
-act2600

Just follow the upgrade sequence on this site, they cover the supporting mods

ya on pump gas it will be tricky with a B16G

 

[krummel21]

Is there any big set backs on the 20g compared to the Evo III

 

[Generation1JeY]

longer spool up time, costs more, greater supporting mods needed, more tuning required.

It wont be difficult to get 350whp from a 20g though.

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

Explain as to how tuning a bigger turbo is "more tuning?"

You're going to have to tune either way, and no one turbo will be harder than the other.

 

[Generation1JeY]

Explain as to how tuning a bigger turbo is "more tuning?"

You're going to have to tune either way, and no one turbo will be harder than the other.

evo3 turbo isnt as much different from a stock turbo as the 20g is, more adjusting is necessary to give it what it wants.

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

If you want to talk sizes, the Evo III is much bigger than a 14b. 405 cfms compared to the 575 from the Evo III. I believe the 20g is 680ish?

Regardless, tuning should not be an issue when buying a turbo, because the injectors are the problem. Turn the boost down, tune from there, slowly raise the boost and increase the amount of fuel, and you'll be fine.

 

[DSMSpyder99]

evo3 turbo isnt as much different from a stock turbo as the 20g is, more adjusting is necessary to give it what it wants.

tuning is tuning just because the turbo flows more air doesnt mean it "harder" or needs "more" tuning. Going from a T-25 to a 16G is a pretty big difference. Once you change the injectors in any car it will need tuning. Sorry man but your statment is incorrect and i agree with Coup D E'Tat

 

[krummel21]

At what RPM is the Turbo Fully spooled

 

[Dieselboy]

more tuning required.

:laugh: we'll just leave that one alone.

As for comparison, the 20G will yield more horsepower overall. However, 350whp is a very logical and realistic goal with an Evo III B16G. The decision should be based on your goals and desired driving characteristics.

Do you want more topend power, think you may want to eclipse 350whp some day, and possibly want 11's? Maybe the 20G is for you then. Or would you prefer quicker spool up, better mid range power, and 12's is pleanty fast enough? The B16G can accomplish that for you. Regardless, you will need all supporting mods necessary. One thing about the 20G is that the turbo outlet faces down (unlike the B16G and other stock mitsu. turbo's where the outlet faces up), therfore you will need to decide before purchasing your FMIC (or settling for an upgraded SMIC for the B16G).

 

[krummel21]

Is there plenty of room left for the 20g to go after the 350whp mark? Also is it a very good turbo for daily driver. When does the turbo reach full boost and when does the Evo 3 reach full boost. I would use it for a race here and there for the people that see my car and automatically want to go at it. Which a great plenty of them are guys with camaros and everyone most them have the 350 under the hood. So I need something to make the big 8 cylinder look bad by beating it with a four.

 

[iowaboostin]

You don't need 350hp to beat the average 350 in Camaros/Mustangs. It sounds like you just want to beat up on some V8s.. in that case all you'd need is the B16g/EvoIII16g, supporting mods, and some driving skill.

 

[gamingguru]

Um... the "Average" modded stanges,Z-28, Trans Am etc. are hella fast. My brother is into mustangs and the turn our all kinds of power. One 2000 blower and you can put your car into the 11's. Now I know that most mustanges on the street aren't running a procharger or something simmiliar, but if you plan on beating modded V8's then I think that you will be in for a suprise.

BTW: one of my friends with a trans am is running 10's of the motor.

 

[pinknuggit]

yeah its going to be rough to beat a modded ls1. They are capable of getting high 12 second 1/4 mile times bone azz stock. An lt1 is an easy target, but anything with a ls1 in it is going to be tough.

 

[krummel21]

so you don' think i could take them with the 20g?

 

[OneFastEclipse]

A 20g will destroy most V8's you run into. I am sporting a 14b on my 2g GSX automatic at only 17psi and I walk most v8's. Your talking almost 300cfm's more than the 14b out of a 20g. Properly tuned 20g's can push over 400hp to the wheels which about destroy pretty much anything. Of course your going to run into a few people that will beat you (you'll never be the fastest), but it will just make it all the more fun. Most cars that have only bolt ons (including V8's) won't have much of a chance. (I don't classify heads and cams bolt ons for those that will want to argue with what I just said)

 

[slider85]

nobody has said this yet, but be sure that your tranny and clutch and other driveline components can handle 300-400whp. or else you'll be going nowhere fast.

 

[leakyfaucet]

An lt1 is an easy target, but anything with a ls1 in it is going to be tough.

They're almost the same engine. Performance wise, they don't differ that much. How can the one be an easy target and one be tough? :laugh:

 

[Generation1JeY]

I dont understand whats so wrong about what i said.

The farther away u go from a stock turbo the more trouble its going to be to give it what it wants.

If u put a 16g on a stock dsm vs putting a 20g on the same car, which one will run better? If i'm seriously wrong then someone explain to me why i'm wrong, but i dont understand if u have a bigger turbo u will need to adjust everything more to make it happy?

 

[krummel45]

If you want 11's go talk to your brother it looks like he knows what he is doing.

 

[paul s]

To get 350awd hp you will need lots of mods. I just got back from a AWD mustang dyno and "only" got 350awd hp.. I have 50trim, cams ++++++++ that many bolt ons..all on pump gas..I get 11.9 at 119 in the 1/4.. decide what kind of car you want to buid, a street car or a drag car, if you want a 100%street car go with evo16g and some cams that will give you wicked bottom/mid range and you will be able to beat most V8. You will loose bottom end power if you go with a big turbo and cams..

 

[Slipstream]

I dont understand whats so wrong about what i said.

The farther away u go from a stock turbo the more trouble its going to be to give it what it wants.

If u put a 16g on a stock dsm vs putting a 20g on the same car, which one will run better? If i'm seriously wrong then someone explain to me why i'm wrong, but i dont understand if u have a bigger turbo u will need to adjust everything more to make it happy?

Adjusting it more isn't harder than adjusting it at all. It is true that the tuning runs further from the stock base lines, but compensating for the changes isn't any more difficult, since they need to be compensated for regardless. For instance, think of an older VCR (damn kids and their dvds) you put 1 tape in, and have to make some adjustements to the tracking to get it to play clearly, you put in a different tape and you have to make some adjustments to the tracking...either way you're making tracking adjustments...1 isn't any harder to adjust than the other as it's the same adjustment you're making. This is over simplified of course because we're dealing with a/f ratios, knock, spool times, tp% etc...but the concept is the same...you'd have to adjust the same things for either turbo...not to the same settings, but the same basic concepts and relationships....that's why it isn't any harder to tune.

 

[pinknuggit]

They're almost the same engine. Performance wise, they don't differ that much. How can the one be an easy target and one be tough? :laugh:

whattaaa u talking abowwwtt?
LT1 and LS1 are completely different motors. Different blocks, Different heads (alum vs. cast), different everything. They went in the same cars, though.
An LT1 car is an easy target because they usually will run high13's to low 14's stock. A few simple mods to your dsm and you can do better than that. Easy target.
An LS1 car is a hard target because they are capable of getting high 12's stock. Bolt on some long tubes, ls6 intake, high stall converter, and a rearend gearset and you can say hellooooo to some badass 11 second 1/4 mile time slips.
There are as many mods available for a SBC as there are number of dsm's ever produced.

 

[saw wave analog]

if your v8 guys are anything like the ones in my town you are going to have a hard time ever catching them. pretty much all of the modded f bodies around here are on the low end of 12's and under. v8 is just an easier platform to get those kind of numbers out of. ls1's stock are as fast or faster than most dsms with all the basic street mods done. if you want to be a serious v8 killer its going to take a 50 trim or bigger, cams, a bigass i/c, and nitrous wouldnt hurt either. unless you are talking about killing stock v8's.. but what is the fun in that.


to this day the only f body ive ever beaten has been an lt1 z28 with cai, a chip and a couple other little things done to it. i beat him in the quarter but he came flying by me at about 100mph. my town has a shitload of serious f bodies though.. but anyone on basic mods that is saying they are beating ls1's with ease is lying to you imo. stoplight to stoplight maybe, but get one from a stop and wait until they hit that bastard 3rd gear and just start reeling you in.. assholes