2G 350hp Build Questions

[camgst]

I have some questions about building my car up. My goal is 350hp. I have done the supporting mods as you can see in my profile.

In getting to 350hp, I have been told that I must upgrade my cams, head studs/gasket and timing belt/balance belt (gates blue).

My engine has never been messed with and has 80k miles on it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it? I am really not interested in putting 264 or 272 or any cams in because this is my daily driver and I do not like being loud. My TB was replaced OEM around 5k miles ago.

Which of these three is absolutely necessary? Yes I've done my research, hard to find straight answers. Anything else I'm missing? Let me know

 

[Nate355RS]

With a 68HTA all three are recommended, and with your goals and it being a DD I'd recommend the cams. You'll get more horsepower with lower boost, and any modern 272 cam isn't going to hurt driveability. If they're degree'd and tuned correctly. I'd be surprised if you could get 350 from your turbo on stock headstuds and cams on pump gas.

Did you replace the other timing components when you replaced the timing belt? Did you also do the balance shaft belt?

 

[ErikTande]

I'm making about 370hp on a stock motor, stock cams, etc. Daily driven. I do have ARP head studs. I'm on e85 as well.

 

[FryboyX]

To my understanding on turbo cars can't you just buy a boost controller and turn the boost up? Assuming your fuel system allows if.

 

[Jacolu3]

The head gasket and head studs might not be necessary but by doing it you'll have a piece of mind. They stock ones might hold 350 but for how long? And the timing belt should be done around 60k mile, so if it was recently done you done need to do it. But if you don't know if it was done it would be safer to do it.
On pump gas you'll probably going to need some cams. It all depends on how much boost your looking to push.

 

[Jacolu3]

To my understanding on turbo cars can't you just buy a boost controller and turn the boost up? Assuming your fuel system allows if.

This is true but you need to do some tuning adjustments to compensate for the extra boost and extra air flow.
And all turbos have a limit on how much boost you can push through it before it become inefficient.

 

[Jacolu3]

And not sure if you missed it in your profile but if you don't have a 3" downpipe then you should invest in one. It will make the car louder but will be worth it.

 

[Type1DSMr]

Oem timing parts will handle 350hp without a problem. No you don't need cams for that goal, but they would help that 68hta spool faster and make more power. However, Arp headstuds would be a good idea for running over 20psi of boost. Also, I assume that 350hp is actually 350whp goals. If so, I would replace that stock clutch with one that can hold the power you want.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Again assuming 350 is 350 WHEEL hp. OEM timing stuff is good for that. It's common to see OEM stuff last on 450whp+ stuff even.
You will need ARP head studs and a boost controller. I'm on 91 as well on a 20G making over 350whp now @20psi.
You can run 1G cams which are a bit more aggressive. The cooler you keep the air the better. Invest in a CAI or make one. There is a write up on here

 

[camgst]

Did you replace the other timing components when you replaced the timing belt? Did you also do the balance shaft belt?

Yes all timing components were replaced. Balance shaft belt too. How does one tune for cams? I am currently tuning with EcuFlash for my black box.

I'm making about 370hp on a stock motor, stock cams, etc. Daily driven. I do have ARP head studs. I'm on e85 as well.

Oh good to know. Thanks for the insight....I don't think my injectors are big enough for e85.

The head gasket and head studs might not be necessary but by doing it you'll have a piece of mind. They stock ones might hold 350 but for how long? And the timing belt should be done around 60k mile, so if it was recently done you done need to do it. But if you don't know if it was done it would be safer to do it.
On pump gas you'll probably going to need some cams. It all depends on how much boost your looking to push.

Yeah it was just recently done. I agree that I should do the head studs. I'm currently only at 10 psi with the 68hta. Looking to go up to 18 at least.

And not sure if you missed it in your profile but if you don't have a 3" downpipe then you should invest in one. It will make the car louder but will be worth it.

and yesss I have a 3" downpipe I will add that to my profile

Oem timing parts will handle 350hp without a problem. No you don't need cams for that goal, but they would help that 68hta spool faster and make more power. However, Arp headstuds would be a good idea for running over 20psi of boost. Also, I assume that 350hp is actually 350whp goals. If so, I would replace that stock clutch with one that can hold the power you want.

Yeah it isn't spooling very fast. I don't start until maybe 3500rpm. Yeah whp would be nice . I just had my clutch done 5k miles ago, going to wait for this one to go.

Again assuming 350 is 350 WHEEL hp. OEM timing stuff is good for that. It's common to see OEM stuff last on 450whp+ stuff even.
You will need ARP head studs and a boost controller. I'm on 91 as well on a 20G making over 350whp now @20psi.
You can run 1G cams which are a bit more aggressive. The cooler you keep the air the better. Invest in a CAI or make one. There is a write up on here

Yes whp would be nice. Good to know about 450 though. I have a boost controller and will probably be doing the arp studs. I keep looking at it logically and think I should just have the cams done while he's in there doing the studs. Good insight about the 1G cams and the CAI, I'll look into that.

 

[lasershark]

Well you already have a turbo that will get you there but not on 10psi. Something else you could look into would be some meth/water injection, especially if you don't want to go the e85 route. This will help you out with the 91 piss gas.

 

[Jacolu3]

You can tune the cams with adjustable cam gears.

 

[Type1DSMr]

How much boost are you currently running? What rpm until you reach your max boost?

 

[camgst]

How much boost are you currently running? What rpm until you reach your max boost?

We're running wastegate pressure, gets to 10 psi at around 5300 rpm.

 

[Type1DSMr]

We're running wastegate pressure, gets to 10 psi at around 5300 rpm.

Something is wrong than because the fp waste gate is a 18psi ,and even the newer 8cm reach mid to high 20s around 4250-4500 rpms. The older 68hta spool up high boost in the mid to high 3k rpms.Of course, every set-up is different and varies. I would do a boost leak test and check your tune.

 

[camgst]

Something is wrong than because the fp waste gate is a 18psi ,and even the newer 8cm reach mid to high 20s around 4250-4500 rpms. The older 68hta spool up high boost in the mid to high 3k rpms.Of course, every set-up is different and varies. I would do a boost leak test and check your tune.

we are using the t-25 wastegate but yeah I'll check for leaks and work on my tune.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/diy-ram-air-duct-for-cold-air-intake.195667/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/diy-cold-air-intake.194759/

 

[ghettotroof]

can u change ur tune easily I'm not sure about ecu flashing but with ur set up I feel like that's a good turbo u should easily be able to up ur boost to 25 psi + and hit ur mark maybe add and apexi afc 2 if tuning is hard for u my 16g was creeping to like 30 psi tuned on an afc 2 650cc injectors stock motor car felt super fast hg did pop after one summer but car had like 168xxx I wouldn't be scared to run 25 psi if I was u

 

[tunernewb92]

You can tune the cams with adjustable cam gears.

OP he is talking about "degreeing" your cams. Jafro has a youtube video on it for our cars but its a very time intensive process. Arguably, all cams can use degreeing, but your higher end like Kelfords or Crowders shouldn't need much at all as they have a higher machining tolerances than say BC's.