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2gnt crank pulley

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Reese92tsi

15+ Year Contributor
181
2
Nov 3, 2004
Raleigh, North Carolina
I'm working on a friends 95 Eagle Talon ESI and we're having trouble getting the crank pulley off, we're replacing the cam seals. We've tried using a 3 claw puller but its not working very well. Whats the best way to get the crank pulley off?
 
check out the tech guide for udp install. the 3 claw is the best way to get it off. while you have it off replace it with a lighter balanced pulley.(obx,afx,unorth.) mine was hard to get off too. good luck
 
Keep working that bad boy, its going to take some major elbow grease and arm power to pull that sucker off its been on there awhile (96's/96's).

Also, what 3-claw are you using? Your center poinbt is long enough to reach the bottom of the bolt hole, right? And you did drop your motor first, correct?
 
i am having the same problem on a 98 gs right now. the bolt itself is out, and ive been working with the 3 prong puller and its not budging..do you guys recommend using something like an impact hammer to try to shock it loose?? i wonder if using some pb blaster would help out???
 
Deffiantly don't use a air hammer on it, thats your crank we're talking about.

Get a 10.9 bolt thats the same thread size as your stock crank bolt, but make sure its about 1 or 2 inchs longer.

Your going to have to drop the left motor mount and unbolt the lower crossmember at the front of the radiator. This will let you tilt the motor down enough to get clearance to get the pulley out.

Thread the new bolt into the crank about 1/2-1 inch in. Now hook your 3 jaw puller to the pulley and put the center bolt against the new crank bolt. Use a braker bar for the first few turns. After its moved outward a little bit go ahead and use an impact gun on it. It should come off no problem.

When reinstalling it, heat the inside of the pulley and put some oil in there. That will help it slip on a lot easier. Use the bolt and some big washers to put the pulley back on. Make sure you use a air nozzle to blow out the crank hole. You don't want anything in there. I actually put my retap through the crank to make sure the threads are perfect every time I take mine off.
 
an air hammer is going to mess the thing up...trust me ive done it...get a heat gun heat the thing up till its nice and warm...i reccomend some thick leather gloves and start to move it off slowly......and dont use a tourch like i watched some mechanic at the ford dealership i worked at do...it burns a lot of things up...LOL...good luck...putting it back on...just stick the crank bolt in get it started grab your air gun and it should push back on no problem for you...
 
Autozone.
Harmonic Dampner Puller.
Free rental.
Done.
 
SnoopySLR said:
Deffiantly don't use a air hammer on it, thats your crank we're talking about.

Get a 10.9 bolt thats the same thread size as your stock crank bolt, but make sure its about 1 or 2 inchs longer.

Your going to have to drop the left motor mount and unbolt the lower crossmember at the front of the radiator.

Thread the new bolt into the crank about 1/2-1 inch in. Now hook your 3 jaw puller to the pulley and put the center bolt against the new crank bolt. Use a braker bar for the first few turns. After its moved outward a little bit go ahead and use an impact gun on it. It should come off no problem.

When reinstalling it, heat the inside of the pulley and put some oil in there. That will help it slip on a lot easier. Use the bolt and some big washers to put the pulley back on.

First half is perfect. I didnt have to oil or heat the pulley to get it back on. Also, it might be a good idea to go ahead and get a new OEM bolt for the pulley. It cost me about $8 from satan when I installed , my UDP. Good luck.
 
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