Resolved 2G Need help re-wiring walbro 255

[2GEEZEY]

I was reading the vfaq, but the pictures are to small and not really detailed, its hard to follow what the guy is doing.

I was wondering if anyone has better pics or a link that could help me out. My battery is relocated to the trunk so i dont have that much wiring to do, just a little confused about it.

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

 

[2GEEZEY]

I did change the set up to Aproductions picture, i just put the stock ground back together, and used a seperate ground for the relay.

and for Steve, theres no way to get it to prime like that? it sounds soooo sick i was wondering if you can get it to do that.

 

[Aproductions]

I like that sound too!!

most people hate it.

 

[2GEEZEY]

mine whines while the car is running, just it doesnt prime when i turn the key " on". what do i do

 

[gofer]

I did change the set up to Aproductions picture, i just put the stock ground back together, and used a seperate ground for the relay.

and for Steve, theres no way to get it to prime like that? it sounds soooo sick i was wondering if you can get it to do that.

I like that sound too!!

most people hate it.

mine whines while the car is running, just it doesnt prime when i turn the key " on". what do i do

It might sound cool but its actually a safety hazard and it doesn't kick on the fuel pump with the key in the "ON" position for a reason. Imagine you get in a car accident and for whatever reason you roll and a fuel line gets cut open... Your knocked out and the key's still in the "ON" position supplying power to the fuel pump thats spraying fuel everywhere.

If you ask me the last thing I want spraying everywhere while theres sparks flying and me stuck inside my DSM is fuel.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

mine whines while the car is running, just it doesnt prime when i turn the key " on". what do i do

Get an AEM EMS. It will prime/run the pump when you key on. Seriously though...... Is it really that important to you?

 

[boostforfun]

Or spend $1,100 less and just replace the fuel pump trigger wire with one that takes its signal from a keyed on position.

I would never do this, however, for all the wonderful flesh burning reasons stated so eloquently above.

Seriously, I know it sounds all race-car-ish, but I have found that the less you screw with the factory systems on a DD, the better.

 

[black_gst]

Get an AEM EMS. It will prime/run the pump when you key on. Seriously though...... Is it really that important to you?

I have ECMLink set up to do the same (prime/run the pump when you key on), it helps the car start easier.

I plan to intercept the trigger wire from the ecu and put in on a switch so it can be a master on/off switch for added security and convenience

 

[2GEEZEY]

yeah it is actually, my car wouldnt take as long to start. it cranks for a few seconds, because theres no fuel pressure.

and what if i hooked up a cutoff switch? i need to do that for my battery as well.

 

[gofer]

yeah it is actually, my car wouldnt take as long to start. it cranks for a few seconds, because theres no fuel pressure.

Your fuel system should hold pressue to the rail, if not than something isn't working properly. It could be an AFPR, fuel injectors, fuel pump or a small leak in the fuel line, but typically its the AFPR.

 

[2GEEZEY]

i have a fuel labs afpr, how do i check it for leaks? it doesnt seem like anything is leaking.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

yeah it is actually, my car wouldnt take as long to start. it cranks for a few seconds, because theres no fuel pressure.

and what if i hooked up a cutoff switch? i need to do that for my battery as well.

It should start to crank, build pressure, and fire up almost immediately. If you are cranking for a few seconds something isn't right.

 

[2GEEZEY]

like i was thinking and gofer said, i could be leaking fuel pressure from my afpr. It doesnt seem like anything is leaking. how do i check for leaks?

 

[gofer]

It won't "leak" visibly, it leaks fuel back to the tank therefor relieving the fuel pressure in the line from the tank to the afpr. Let your car idle for a few minutes and then shut it off, run out and check your AFPR gauge and see where its at right when you shut off the car. If its at 0 already more than likely your AFPR needs rebuilt, if it slowly decreases then it could be your fp or injectors. Of course leaving a car sit for a weekend or longer fp will drop but the fuel system from the tank to the fpr should have pressure in the line.

 

[2GEEZEY]

alright one sec

 

[Aproductions]

what do you do with this wire?

the one with the arrow.

 

[2GEEZEY]

i left that, and made a seperate wire from the relay for the ground. I used 8 gauge for that ground aswell as the main power. I did it how u originally posted it

 

[Aproductions]

so you just left the wire that I have the arrow on?
so it doesnt go anywhere?

 

[steve]

If you were paying attention, you don't have an extra wire unless your replacing the ground for the pump and in that case the extra wire is the old pump ground and won't hurt anything to tape up out of the way.

 

[Aproductions]

alright, thats what I didn't understand. I redid the ground wire too and maybe some people don't. So I'll just tape off the rest of the black and white wire I have for the old ground.

Thanks

 

[2GEEZEY]

i actually kept the factory ground on the fuel pump connector, and grounded it off the relay.

 

[gixrman]

i have ecmlink set up to do the same it helps the car start easier... i plan to intercept the trigger wire from the ecu and put in on a switch so it can be a master on/off switch for added security and convenience

Did you ever do this? I have a Aeromotive FPC that needs the signal wire from the ecu cant figure out which wire it is at the fuel pump connector.