$200 reward: Hesitating above 4500, loss of power, no cel, help!!

[swarm]

a little history about this problem.
I bought this car with 70,000 miles on it. it's a '95. when I bought it, it did not boost properly, or so the previous owner thought. turns out, it is boosting fine, because i installed an autometer boost gauge and it reads 14psi until it drops off in the higher RPM's down to 11psi.

Anyhow, here's the problem:
i accelerate, first gear seems fine, above 4500rpms in any gear, it feels like it's no longer pulling under boost, but it still accelerates like it's N/A.. boost gauge never drops below 11psi. Air/Fuel gauge goes really lean. here's a log. i can't read this log on this computer so i can't just paste it here. www.icehouse.net/turners/firstlog.db1

I know what the car SHOULD feel like because i used to own a properly running one, but it didn't like it's own flywheel, and decided to launch it out the hood.

With MAS plugged in, it does this bad running, with MAS unplugged, car runs rich as hell. this means my MAS is good, right?

I have also done a boost leak check with negative results.

mods:
MBC@14psi
Walbro 255HP
K&N filter
BPR6ES, taylor 8mm wires


Here's what I'v replaced:

Walbro 255HP FP
Reinstalled honeycombs
Fuel Filter
Fuel rail
coil pack
MDP sensor
front 02 sensor


I have owned this car for 5 months now, and have never felt it run properly. I am willing to pay someone a $200 reward if they give advice that fixes the problem. I just want this car to run properly stock before i MOD it. =(

 

[IceDragon]

you said it goes really lean up higher rpms... I can think of only two things though, injectors not big enough, or the ECU is an NT one... sounds to me though like your injectors hit their height real early

 

[swarm]

injectors were already on my to-do list, but they're all stock, as is the ECU.. :\
they shouldn't technically be maxing out when the car is all stock, right?

 

[siceclipse]

maybe your fuel pressure regulator

 

[swarm]

I just had a thought. i'm going to go test my alternator.

FPR has also been replaced with a known working unit. forgot to list it

 

[Mackzero]

I can't view that log, but I think that you timing is being pulled from knock. Check your knock sensor. Maybe you could unplug it, it throws a code, but I am not sure what the car will run like w/o it though. Anyway, check everything that would make you knock bad. Also, make sure your plugs are good, and gapped right.

 

[Mackzero]

You also could be running TOO rich, because of that pump.

 

[swarm]

I installed that pump because i thought the stock one was pooping out. no change in the car's condition.

plugs are good, new, and gapped properly.

 

[CyberEye]

Check your O2 sensor, sounds like it's dead or dying. And your CEL wouldn't necessarily
come on. My O2 sensor was completely dead, absolutely no signal coming from it to the computer and my light didn't come on, and the car did the same thing. Started bogging/hesitating above 4000rpms, getting really lean.

 

[swarm]

As my first post stated, i have already done my o2 sensors

 

[nelapse]

I dont know awhole lot about turbos but it sounds like a fuel cut to me.
If I were you, I would reset the ecu and let it learn itself again and see if that helps. Sometimes those trons get out of hand.

 

[CatchMe]

Check your timing - make sure the timing marks are aligned on the cams and the crank. You may have jumped a tooth or whom ever did the timing belt might have not aligned everything properly. The timing may be retarted causing a loss in power like that. Good luck

 

[power=dsm]

i would first stratoff by checking the fuel sytem on the car . then if everything checks out check the timming and also tour base timing swap ecu with a friend maybe something is wrong eith urs.
After that check the turbo maybe it's dieing on you

 

[90AWDTalon]

I cant open that log, what did you log with?

 

[swarm]

nelapse I dont know awhole lot about turbos but it sounds like a fuel cut to me.
If I were you, I would reset the ecu and let it learn itself again and see if that helps. Sometimes those trons get out of hand.

first, please use some logic. i said i replaced the fuel filter -- anyone who can do this without removing the battery is very good.
thanks though


to the people about the ecu and timing, i havn't checked timing, but the ecu has been tested with a KWU

mike, i logged with palmnstein

 

[90AWDTalon]

Was that a full throttle pass, because according to that log you never went 100% throttle. I'd suggest checking the TPS.

 

[Defiant]

plugs are good, new, and gapped properly.

Make sure they're NGK BPR6ES at .028, and replace the ignition wires.

 

[Jarrad_GST]

I agree with catchme who said its your timing thats off. My car does the same after I did a 6 bolt swap. Did you check for boost leaks with a compressor. It could just be a boost leak. Maybe a headgasket problem? But I am thinking its your timing is off. Get a timing light and make sure your timing is 5 deg. advanced at idle and ground the wire. Just check out vfaq.com to do it right. Good Luck.

 

[siceclipse]

You said you reset the ECU already while replacing the fuel filter. Did you reset it correctly? From what I have learned, you reset the car, let it idle for 10 min. and then shut it off. In that time dont move it or touch the gas pedal in any way. Then go out for a nice 5-10 min drive. Reason being you have reset the ECU and while the short term memory can come back as soon as new data is learned there is no long term yet.


I hope this helps (I hope im not talking out of my a$$)


Good luck

 

[CatchMe]

Just check that timing... you never know who the previous owner had do that belt. You should be checking it anyway to see what kind of condition its in. Im very sure that this problem is timing related from what im hearing from you.

 

[slowoldman]

I would lean toward the cam timing.

What kind of exhaust do you have? I did have a similar power problem on a NA car when the cat was getting plugged. When exhaust can't flow boost will fall and power without a doubt will suffer.

 

[nelapse]

first, please use some logic. i said i replaced the fuel filter -- anyone who can do this without removing the battery is very good.
thanks though


to the people about the ecu and timing, i havn't checked timing, but the ecu has been tested with a KWU

mike, i logged with palmnstein

As I recall You asked Everyone for help. In return I am insulted? Why don't you just take it to a shop if you have an extra 200 bucks to shove up your ass. I bet a mech would be able to tell you for about 70 bucks Now you use some logic

 

[xbeck]

check timing first. then if that's ok, check and make sure all the marks line up.

 

[swarm]

I will check timing and stuff again

I have stock exhaust

Defiant, I have 6es's gapped to .028 and taylor 8mm wires.

nelapse, sorry if you were offended, it was not my intention. i was tired and cranky when writing the post. I can't take it to any local mechanics, because they are all morons x10. they all lie and try to make tons of money.

90AWDTalon, can you please post that log in a more traditional format? i am unable to open it, but it seems you can. I checked my TPS, at idle it was at 1, so i adjusted it to 10, now at WOT it reads 82, but i will fix that soon too. it didn't seem to help the problem at all though.

Yes, i checked for boost leaks with a compressor

i guess i need to check timing then. the logger, at idle, says my timing is at 6, is that the same thing as checking the marks?

 

[KGB Pilot125]

aret he injectors out of an auto? just a thought