2 sets of valve guides eaten w/ 272s and performance springs

[Evo3Codriver]

My first build w/ 272 cams and the Crower valve springs blew up between 3000-5000 miles. After just a couple thousand I could hear the valves rattling in the guides (thought it was a lifter) until I lost a valve entirely and it lunched a Wisco piston and Eagle rod and had to sleave that cylinder.

Rebuild thinking I just had crappy valve guides and this second build last maybe 7000 miles before consuming oil, having blowby, losing power so I tear it all apart again. Found alot of scouring of cylinders, bearings, oil pump gears/cover and thought it was that there must of just been a lot of abrasive grit left in oil cooler and perhaps oil pump was sticking cause aftermarket gauge would go pegged at 100PSi when factory dash gauge would remain normal (thought faulty aftermaket gauge and even replaced sender and it did same thing). Anyhow, looked more closely at cylinder head today and the vlave guides were toast and they destoyed the seals rendering them useless. Thinking these guides were the source of the grit as the wore themselves out.

What gives? What are the best guides to get? Tired and its getting expensive.

 

[GVR4592]

The guide is probably not at fault, it's most likely the person doing the work. Find a new machinist, or if you're doing it yourself, let somebody more qualified handle it. ### kind of guides are you using, cast iron, bronze, copper, or inserts?

 

[Artago]

My first build w/ 272 cams and the Crower valve springs blew up between 3000-5000 miles. After just a couple thousand I could hear the valves rattling in the guides (thought it was a lifter) until I lost a valve entirely and it lunched a Wisco piston and Eagle rod and had to sleave that cylinder.

Rebuild thinking I just had crappy valve guides and this second build last maybe 7000 miles before consuming oil, having blowby, losing power so I tear it all apart again. Found alot of scouring of cylinders, bearings, oil pump gears/cover and thought it was that there must of just been a lot of abrasive grit left in oil cooler and perhaps oil pump was sticking cause aftermarket gauge would go pegged at 100PSi when factory dash gauge would remain normal (thought faulty aftermaket gauge and even replaced sender and it did same thing). Anyhow, looked more closely at cylinder head today and the vlave guides were toast and they destoyed the seals rendering them useless. Thinking these guides were the source of the grit as the wore themselves out.

What gives? What are the best guides to get? Tired and its getting expensive.

Wow. I have the EXACT same problem. Rebuilt motor, 272's, bronze guides. I also found scoring, consume oil, smoke, blowby, "abrasive grit", aftermarket gauge pegged at 100psi (replaced the sender).... the list just goes on and on.

What I wanna know if what you (or anyone else reading this) has done? What guides did you go with? Did it work out for you? Please let me know because I don't want to destroy the motor.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Evo3Codriver]

What I wanna know if what you (or anyone else reading this) has done? What guides did you go with? Did it work out for you? Please let me know because I don't want to destroy the motor.

Pretty sure now that the first build had crappy bronze guides supplied by the machine shop.

Bought quality guides the 2nd build and convinced now that the problem with that build was stuck oil pressure release valve in oil pump(maybe from first engine blowing up debris stuck in it) just wore out the entire engine.

Trust your aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I didn't and even replaced the sender for it thinking that was the problem. The factory oil pressure gauge never read high enough that you think there might be a problem.

I've rebuild since my original post with a new oil pump and now oil pressure reads 25-50 lbs.

 

[Artago]

Pretty sure now that the first build had crappy bronze guides supplied by the machine shop.

Bought quality guides the 2nd build and convinced now that the problem with that build was stuck oil pressure release valve in oil pump(maybe from first engine blowing up debris stuck in it) just wore out the entire engine.

Trust your aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I didn't and even replaced the sender for it thinking that was the problem. The factory oil pressure gauge never read high enough that you think there might be a problem.

I've rebuild since my original post with a new oil pump and now oil pressure reads 25-50 lbs.

Who built your first motor?

What valve guides did you have in there? (What brand?)

What valve guides are you using now? Bronze? Iron? Other? What brand?

What oil pump did you have in your first build? Why did the pump need replacing?

How many miles since the head rebuild? Any problems?

Sorry about all the questions but my car is going to the shop next week and I want to help steer them in the right direction. Any help and info would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Evo3Codriver]

Who built your first motor?

What valve guides did you have in there? (What brand?)

My brother-in-law built the motor but a machineshop assembled the cylinder head and supplied the crappy bronze valve guides. Don't know the brand.

What valve guides are you using now? Bronze? Iron? Other? What brand?

Ferrea Competition Plus valve guides purchased at Slowboy Racing

What oil pump did you have in your first build? Why did the pump need replacing?

Was OEM Mitsubishi oil pump. After the motor lunched a valve and piston from having crappy valve guides, the following build had the high oil pressure issues caused by a sticking oil pressure release valve, possibly from debris from previous motor blowing up.

How many miles since the head rebuild? Any problems?

150 miles. Also used Ferrea valves and Ferrea Competion Plus Valve stem seals from Slowboy.

All specs of my car here:

ProRallyCodriver's 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse on CarDomain - Page 3

 

[Artago]

Thanks for the info. I'm still debating as to what valve guides to go with. I have some type of Bronze valve guides in my motor now but they wore out real fast. I ran about 10 PSi (not beating up on the motor as all) and they died on me within 5000 miles. This is a street car that is my DD so I need durability and longevity. So I was thinking of going with the OEM iron guides from slowboy found here: Slowboy Racing :: Engine :: DSM Engine :: Head Parts :: Valves & Guides :: SBI Iron Valve Guides (Set of 16)
Do you think this is a wise choice? My goal is 350-400 AWHP... will these be ok for that?

Like I said I don't know why my old ones died so fast. So this has me worried. I was told that Iron guides last longer and can take more abuse. Is this true? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom