2.4 Swap under way..... Need all the info possible.

[96SSITalon]

I have searched on this board and found lots of info on coverting a 96' talon 2.0 DOHC to the 2.4 block. i was just wondering if there is anything i missed. any 2.4 block can be used out of a chrysler? and what is/where is everybody getting there rotating asseblys from? i'd like to doa 2.4 w/ new crank rods and pistons but having a hard time finding what i need. i can only find 2.0 parts. thanks

Josh

 

[jwreed09]

hey man..good luck with the conversion. i've searched forums on here and can't find much for mating the 2.4 bottom end to the 2.0 top end. keep me posted on any info you can find out. maybe you could use this thread as to help other tuners on how to do the swap! take pics when ya do the install and after man. good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Gorkoracing]

Check 2gnt.com. A bunch of people on there have done it or know how to and what all is required. They'll also help ya out while you are in the process of doing it too. Lot of knoledgeable guys on this subject there.

 

[dustyduff]

Try these two links for some information. I did a search on the web a while back and came up with these.

http://www.4g64performance.com/1g_parts.htm

http://www.carotica.com/4g64/

 

[DSM-ZERO]

The passenger side motor mount doesn't work, you will need a bracket made

the lower water pipe will need to be creatively held to the block, since the bolthole doesn't bolt up right

the dipstick will need to stick between header runners 2 and 3. Check the oil on a cold motor only

oil pan doesn't work well with the exhaust. Can be modified by cutting support ribs to make work with the crossmember, but for the exhaust, I am at a loss. Custom pan necessary

PT Cruiser alternator bracket works (can't remember the belt size)

must use underdrive pulley

recommend sandwich adaptor and oil filter relocation due to crappy location

custom ps and sc brackets need to be made, as well as a way to tension the belt

starter requires some notching of the bracket that holds the lower water pipe in order to bolt it to the transmission

the 4 corner head bolts must be from a 2.4, not a 2GNT, as the 2GNT corner head bolts (4 of them) are too short to meet the threads in the 2.4

2.4 oil pan gasket is needed

the main seals from the 2.4 are different then the 2.0

I recommend removing the balance shafts. They are on the bottom of the bedplate and can be removed by pulling 4 bolts and cutting the drive chain. There is now an oiling hole that must be blocked. I recommend tapping it and screwing a bolt in there, using red loctite

I also recommend baffling the oil pan if you remove the balance shafts. there is now a 6.5 qt. capacity in the pan which is too easy to slosh around.

2.4L valve cover doesn't fit well. Not sure if silicone sealant would fix this or not.

2.0 sensors (oil pressure, knock, and crank angle sensors) must be used. The 2.4 sensors don't fit the harnesses. Must get creative on knock sensor placement.

coil pack must be rewired: switch the outside wires

cam position magnet must be removed, the location nipples filed off, and replaced, turned counter clockwise 90 degrees.

Injectors must be rewired, move 4-3, 3-2, 2-1, 1-4.

This is all that I can think of off of the top of my head. I would not recommend this swap to my worst enemy.
-=B-=

Here is more info on doing the swap
As far as rebuilding the 2.4 www.fasterthanyou.com might want to ask them on where to get piston's and rod's
A 2.4 block out of a stratus or seabring will work

 

[GSGoinFast]

Try these two links for some information. I did a search on the web a while back and came up with these.

http://www.4g64performance.com/1g_parts.htm

http://www.carotica.com/4g64/

dont follow either of those, although i dont think one of them works. hes talking about the 420a 2.4 swap, not the 4g63 head to 4g64 block swap. i know, talking about the 2gnt engine in the 2gnt section is weird, but we are giving it a shot.

go search on 2gnt.com, that place has threads about the 2.4 swap pouring out its ass. im sure you will find anything and everything you need to know there.

 

[TRUSTEDONE2003]

i have some info for you guys venturing into 2.4 land. i am also in the swap process and the stock 2gnt mount WILL work, it just needs modification. 2 of the 3 bolt holes line up. for the 3rd, cut, add aluminum spacer plate, and reweld the mount to fit the odd hole on the 2.4 block. you will also have to shim it just a bit to clear the t-belt. pistons and rods can come from the srt-4 or contact bob stockum, he has great deals on piston/rod combos for us. search for him on yahoo and you'll find his site. great pics of some pt cruiser engine builds and baffled oil pans. the water pipe and oil pan however need some creativity. i will be making these in the coming months, and a replacement throttle shaft for the jeep tb (60 mm) that uses the stock 2gnt spring-no sloppy accelerator pedal. i recently aquired a job as a cnc machinist. unfortunately i have to take it easy until my 90 day probation is over but then it's on, i can use the shops machines to my hearts content. hopefully i can help some of you guys also. if you use your stock cam gears, you have to flip them over to the 2.4 side BUT you have to remark them with the 2.0 timing marks. (ask DUDEMAN about this, he just went through it all) another thing, the exhaust downpipe or header has to be extended about an inch due to the one inch higher deck height of the new block. as stated above the injectors due need to be rewired 1-2,2-3,3-4,4-1 and if you stay n/t you want 24# or accel 310 injectors. the two outer wires on the coil pack need to be switched. pt alternator bracket was already stated and the 2.4 valve cover would be a bad idea in my opinion, the spark plug wells dont align properly. i just took all the numbers/letters off of mine and had it powdercoated. i have a buddy that does powdercoat if anybody needs that also. the whole point of this swap is the torque jump if you're staying n/t, supposedly about a 70 pound/ft jump. should set ya at about 220 on a stock engine, better than that with mods and/or turbo obviously. there are guy's at 2gnt shooting at 600-700 hp!! no crankwalk either, maybe mopar gets the last laugh eh?anyway, that's all i can think of now. if you have q's for me, pm me here or i go as 2point4 at 2gnt. hope this helps you guys...chris

 

[Dudeman]

My reply is a little late because I was out in SC living it up before I have to take off for school.

Everything Chris said was on key. The 2gnt engine mount just needs the front lower bolt hole redrilled, shaved down in certain areas and shimmed outward to clear the timing belt and waterpump pulley.

MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE CAM GEARS CORRECTLY!!!!!!! 3 weeks to figure out something so damn simple.

The wire are of course are 1-2 2-3 3-4 and 4-1. All you need to do is resolder the backwires.

The new wiring should be

1 White into Tan
2 Tan into Yellow
3 Yellow into Blue
4 Blue into White
*This is on my 95, I'm not sure how the wiring colors goes for other years.

On the cam sensor remember it moves opposite to the cams so to move it 90* advanced you move it counter-clockwise when facing it.

Changing the outer coil wires all you have to do is pull the terminals out of the plug and switch them.

As far as internals, SRT4 internals are cheap but I got Wiseco molycoated pistons and Eagle h-beam rods for close to $1000 through a local machinist.

I'm at about 9-1 compression right now, and after 3000 miles in a 10 day period I say... this is F-ing great. I love this new found torque, you will deffinately get the hole shot on likes of a gst. I'm now working on going turbo with a Holset HX35, and it will be deadly.

 

[audiousECLIPSE]

Any idea on how much something like this would cost? Assuming you did it yourself.