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ECMlink 2.3 stroker with evolll 16g and maf running lean

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james2042

Proven Member
44
0
Nov 10, 2013
Ticonderoga, New York
Guys I need some help. I am getting my car tuned remotely . So far the idle and cruise feel much better. We are now on wot and the car is running lean. We have to keep adding flow (46 lbs/m as of now) on an evolll 16g . Also the manifold gets red hot after a 3rd gear pull. Any ideas that may help? :pray:

Aeromotive afpr @ 43.5 psi
Fic 850's
255 wally
Boost @ 25 psi
LC2 @ 14.7 narrowband sim
6 bolt stroker
greddy fmic ,bov
stock head
Stock 2g maf
evolll 16g
3.5 inch apexi front to rear with a magnaflo muffler



Attached is the last 3rd gear log
 
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What fuel you run on ? (Octane)

Also look at wb factor it's telling you what to do at each HZ point .

I run 93 pump gas.

I know it can be tuned around it. We are trying to figure out why we have so much air flow. I'd rather find the problem and fix it then make the tune work. Thanks James
 
Strange, because when you add fuel via MAFComp (I would smooth out your table), BoostEst will increase. So if you're sure you are running 25psi, and it already thinks you're running 30+, then it seems like it would make it worse. I wonder if it has anything to do with the increased displacement.

Who is remote tuning your car?



On a side note, did I buy a subframe and a bunch of other stuff from you last year, or was that someone else in Ticonderoga?
 
Strange, because when you add fuel via MAFComp (I would smooth out your table), BoostEst will increase. So if you're sure you are running 25psi, and it already thinks you're running 30+, then it seems like it would make it worse. I wonder if it has anything to do with the increased displacement.

Who is remote tuning your car?



On a side note, did I buy a subframe and a bunch of other stuff from you last year, or was that someone else in Ticonderoga?

Different guy from Ticonderoga. Tuner I really don't know as i'm going through a friend to get it tuned. The tuner has done very good by him though and has a good rep. Thanks for the input I will relay it.
 
Strange, because when you add fuel via MAFComp (I would smooth out your table), BoostEst will increase. So if you're sure you are running 25psi, and it already thinks you're running 30+, then it seems like it would make it worse. I wonder if it has anything to do with the increased displacement.

Try double-clicking boostest and putting in 2.3L for displacemnt :thumb:

I'm really not a fan of tuning based on boostest and frankly I don't understand why so many people are obsessed with it, considering it is useless outside of 5-6k rpms WTF...I guess it's helpful as a sanity check. IMO, it is much better to tune with wbfactor, but to each his own...

Also look at wb factor it's telling you what to do at each HZ point .

+1!
 
I am hoping I found the problem. I removed the fuel pump and it's a oem replacement pump not a 255 wally.. The guy that sold me the car swears it had a 255 wally. :mad:

I will try this again with a 255
 
I have had almost the exact same setup, except I had hks 264 and JMF intake manifold. What lean problem are you talking about? Top of the gear (2-4% WB Factor) or that large lean spike when u first hit the gas?

1 Thing - do a TPS adjust in ECM link WOT should be 100 not 99
 
I have had almost the exact same setup, except I had hks 264 and JMF intake manifold. What lean problem are you talking about? Top of the gear (2-4% WB Factor) or that large lean spike when u first hit the gas?

1 Thing - do a TPS adjust in ECM link WOT should be 100 not 99

Notice my maf comp is 24% to get a 10.8-11 on a pull. We found the pump was only a 190 and installed a 255. Found a couple small boost leaks and fixed them. Flow is 46 + lb/min and I believe it should be around 38 ? I have no power maybe around 240hp at 25lbs of boost. Tuner thinks I may have a mechanical issue. :confused:

I have done the tps adjust and had it at 100%,I think it got switched back to a previous flash.

This is my last 3rd gear pull.
 
A few things:

-TPS is still not adjusted correctly
-Set your WB and AFRest to line up on top of each other so u can clearly see when they differ (right click preference Min -4.7 Max 21.2)
-MAF comp is off, should be smooth and linear (throttle tip in is lean and top end is a tad rich)
-Boostest is set for a 2.0, yet u have a 2.3. This is why it is saying 40psi when in reality u are hitting 30 or less.

I guess you are on the stock intake manifold, if so it is killing your top end power. I would also get a Map sensor and plug it in where the MDP sensor is and see if actual boost matches boostest.
 
A few things:

-TPS is still not adjusted correctly
-Set your WB and AFRest to line up on top of each other so u can clearly see when they differ (right click preference Min -4.7 Max 21.2)
-MAF comp is off, should be smooth and linear (throttle tip in is lean and top end is a tad rich)
-Boostest is set for a 2.0, yet u have a 2.3. This is why it is saying 40psi when in reality u are hitting 30 or less.

I guess you are on the stock intake manifold, if so it is killing your top end power. I would also get a Map sensor and plug it in where the MDP sensor is and see if actual boost matches boostest.

Yes my intake manifold is stock. I lined up wb and afrest apparently I have to do that before each log? It does not save the preference. I will calibrate the tps again. This was done once and my old log said 100%. Not sure why it is switched now. Here is a log with boost est preference set at 2.3l . I plan on taking the bottom cover off and checking mechanical timing today. I will do a pull with tps calibrated and wb/afrest lined up after that. If my mafcomp is linear it just runs lean. That's the reason we think there is a mechanical issue. I will have to order a map sensor. I did just install a new glow shift boost gauge yesterday that reads 24 psi Thanks
 
I am going to explain how I think MAFcomp works based on what I have read and experienced. I might be wrong, I never claim to know everything.

The maf measures how much air and its temp going into the turbo. Based on a 2.0 with stock cams, and stock intake, and stock intercooler......the ECU is calibrated to work with the stock maf. Once changes have been made to engine, that calibration is off. Sometimes very little. In your case, the engine is 15% bigger, and cams are larger, along with fmic making air colder. So you need to tell the ECU it is getting more air than it thinks it is getting by adjust the MAFcomp. You are compensating for the increase in airflow.

Your MAFcomp looks good except that huge dip at 300-500hz. That dip is telling the ECU less air is coming in than what is really coming in, causing a lean spot. The spot can be found in your log.

How to fix?

Go to log and click around in the lean spots and u will get this:
340hz - WBfactor +10%
400hz - WBfactor +6.7%
500hz - WBfactor +3%

Take these percents and add them to the mafcomp table u have. U have at 400hz 7.8. So 7.8 x 1.067 = 8.3 (try 8.6 like u have for 300hz)

Change 300,400,and 500 to remove that dip slightly. Drive car and repeat process until dip is gone.
 

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All timing marks are lined up at TDC . The car now runs very rough after fixing the bad key way and putting it in time. Cylinder 3 and 4 plugs are black if you take the injector plug off it changes nothing. Take them off 1 and 2 and the car stumbles.

Figured it out. Firing order is different on a 6 bolt swap. Time for tuning.
 
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Update for anyone that was helping. After we figured out the firing order was different on a 6 bolt swap we started tuning. The car runs super now and is making roughly 350 awhp
 
This is my last pull.
 

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From what I can see the log looks good.

Do a full 1/4 mile log or atleast up to 7k in 3rd from a stand still. That is the best way to tune in third. By the time u get to third, fuel pressure has caught up, intake temps should stabilize, and u will see if timing needs to be adjusted. The E16g starts to blow hot air in third.

How in the turbo intake setup?
 
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