1G Rebuild

[Ricerocket24]

I have recently pulled the head off my 1G motor to begin rebuilding the bottom end/head. I'm on a bit of a budget and looking to freshen up the motor while building something I can get 300-400 horsepower out of. I've found a few rebuild kits around the net that look decent enough for what I'm building, but I'm not sure if its the best route to take or not. I already have many of the add ons associated with building a hotter motor (larger turbo/injectors, fuel pump, FMIC, SAFC, etc.). What I was looking into was the topline kit with the slightly higher CR pistons, but junking the headgasket for an MLS and using ARP headstuds in it. Is this a resonable build route to expect the sort of horsepower output? As far as the head goes, revised larger ported lifters, valve guides, seals, 272 cams. Any help would be awesome, I've been sitting here beating my head against the desk trying to decide what to do.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

2G Pistons on 1G Big Rods would suffice if you want to go that route. Stock, however, the 1G Pistons/Rods will handle quite a bit of punishment. As far as Head choices, if you can pay to have the head/block surfaces machined and surfaced then an MLS headgasket is the way to go. ARP's are always a plus, however the 6 Bolt Block head-bolts are also very strong. ARP's would only give you less reason to worry.

A slightly larger cam size, 264's or 272's (if you want a nice lope) will help, but keep in mind that if you're doing that you might as well replace your entire valve-train. -shrug- I mean, if you really want to do it right. On a budget, though, 264's will make a decent difference.

For your ring/bearing/timing belt/components needs, I'd recommend giving Bruce at PartsDinosaur a call and talking with him. Great damned prices and I haven't bought a single bad item from him. For additional power, just check out the upgrades path and see what you can do besides rebuilding your engine.

 

[Ricerocket24]

If the surfaces of the head/block weren't machined and resurfaced, is there a better option for headgaskets that are reliable enough when running higher boost? Im leaving the block in the car and doing it that route due to the shop I work at being ass holes about personal cars in or around their shop >.>

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Sure. Composite Headgaskets can and have handled boost levels of 25PSI and higher with the correct application, torque, and of course ARP head-studs. If you can clean the head and block surface yourself very, very nicely and check the flatness with a mechanics' level then you can get away with an MLS headgasket. A small imperfection, though, will render the gasket useless and you'll be spewing Oil, coolant, or both.

Grab yourself a good composite head gasket, a set of standard ARP head-studs, replace the rod bearings with proper bearings, replace the piston rings, hone the cylinder walls, and break the vehicle in properly (There is mass debate on how to break an engine in. I prefer Motomans' Method.) Remember to replace timing belt, balance shaft belt (or do a BSE), auto-tensioner, idle and tension pulleys, the seals on your cams, and if you want to upgrade to better Cams, then grab a set of 264's. If you have a proper way to tune, a set of 660 injectors and an e16g will make a very noticeable difference. If you don't, then 16PSI will still be wonderful with the larger cams.

 

[Ricerocket24]

If new pistons were something I was looking at, what kind of compression ratio would be suitable?

 

[crusada]

i agree 2g pistons 1g rods would be good enough and like it was mentioned the 6bolts can sustain alot of power had a friend of mine that was running right at 400 and it ran wonderful just with 264 crower cams a hans craft super 20g open 02 dump dsm link wide band with 660 injectors and front mounted of course all it had was the head ported and polished with a composite headgasket and arp studs and revised 3g lifters for engine work it ran amazing