1g motor into 2g body

[AustinBionic]

Now i've been researching on DSM's, DOHC VTEC's and i-VTEC motors, and Toyota's VVT-i and VVTL-i, and I've been a fan of the DSM motors for a long time, but as of late I've been hearing about putting in a 1g motor into a 2g body, and from what I understand the 1g motor was built better than the 2g motor, but if I was to swap that motor out and put a 1g motor then I'd stand a better chance for boosting higher than the 2g motor. So my question is this, What would I benifit by putting a 1g motor into a 2g GST or GSX body car? is there tq difference? and if I was to buy a GST or GSX with over 100k on the stock motor and tranny, and on the body, and got a lower miliege 1g motor would I fine for boosting? Because I heard that the DSM swaps doesnt require tranny swaps either.


P.S. I also heard there was gome 2g parts that can help the 1g motor as well does anyone know what parts they're talking about.

 

[Aikouka]

Most people don't look to put just a 1g engine in, but a 6-bolt engine into their 2g. The 1g engines overall were rated at a lower BHP than the 2g cars, but the difference of the 6-bolt is the stronger internals and the less chance of crankwalk.

 

[AustinBionic]

Most people don't look to put just a 1g engine in, but a 6-bolt engine into their 2g. The 1g engines overall were rated at a lower BHP than the 2g cars, but the difference of the 6-bolt is the stronger internals and the less chance of crankwalk.

Ohh ok, so what can I do to provent Crankwalk? or would it be a better idea and just get the 1g motor?

 

[Aikouka]

Ohh ok, so what can I do to provent Crankwalk? or would it be a better idea and just get the 1g motor?

To my knowledge there's really nothing you can do to prevent it. Some people get it, some people don't (even 6 bolts get it.) But the way I see it, if you're afraid of wasting time and tuning an engine that might go bad, then get a 6-bolt 4g63.

 

[AustinBionic]

but then why do I hear people say that the 1g motor is better than the 2g?

 

[Tallen]

Crankwalk is a game of Russian Roulette.

The 6-bolt is not technically stronger, just a more reliable base. A 1GB 7-bolt will yield you the same results.

2G's have puny little rods that tend to want out of the block by whatever means necessary. They do have better pistons though! The main selling point behind a 6-bolt is reliability. Why spend $2k on a 7-bolt block when there is the chance (see Russian Roulette) that crankwalk may occur. 6-bolts have low frequencies of crankwalk, though it does happen, just as it does with ALL engines. I have a 6-bolt block/head sitting in my rec room staring at me. I suggest you do the same. Get that 1G engine, but don't just throw it in. Build her up with some rods, pistons, cams, balance shaft removal, valves, springs, and retainers. You'll be happy you did.

 

[AustinBionic]

well I can do the samething to a 2g and get results as well.

 

[AustinBionic]

So if I got the car with a 100k on it, would it be safe for me to boost once I did the upgrade path?

 

[MrPikolo]

So if I got the car with a 100k on it, would it be safe for me to boost once I did the upgrade path?

That is very hard to tell without actually looking at the car. You can have a car that has 100k on it and never been abused, but then you can also have a car with 100k on it that was brought up to redline every time before the guy shifted.

Does the car run smooth? Burns anything? It should be "safe", but there are to many factors to be able to answer your question completly.

 

[AustinBionic]

well I've rode in it and it rides smooth and has no problems...hes put a new timing belt and the whole nine in it...but still has stock gauge and stuff like that.

 

[Aikouka]

Crankwalk is a game of Russian Roulette.

The 6-bolt is not technically stronger, just a more reliable base. A 1GB 7-bolt will yield you the same results.

2G's have puny little rods that tend to want out of the block by whatever means necessary. They do have better pistons though! The main selling point behind a 6-bolt is reliability. Why spend $2k on a 7-bolt block when there is the chance (see Russian Roulette) that crankwalk may occur. 6-bolts have low frequencies of crankwalk, though it does happen, just as it does with ALL engines. I have a 6-bolt block/head sitting in my rec room staring at me. I suggest you do the same. Get that 1G engine, but don't just throw it in. Build her up with some rods, pistons, cams, balance shaft removal, valves, springs, and retainers. You'll be happy you did.

Ig 7-bolts aren't as strong as 6-bolts. I've seen the rods and compared them, the 6-bolt rods are thicker than the 1g 7-bolt rods.

 

[AustinBionic]

but what Im saying is if I build the motor anyways, I stand a greater chance of not running into crank walk right?

 

[98RedGs]

well I've rode in it and it rides smooth and has no problems...hes put a new timing belt and the whole nine in it...but still has stock gauge and stuff like that.

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech.asp



Theory of a walking crank
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm


1g Engine in a 2g dsm.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/1g2g.asp
Another 1g engine in a 2g dsm vfaq
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

The swap won't require a transmission, but it will require a flywheel tho.
1g engines bottom is definately built better because it can walk but usually dosen't.


1g rods are better
2g pistons are better
1g throttle bodies are better
2g ecu's are way better (dsmlink) (woot)
1g rear ends are way better in certain years (4bolt rear)
2g Exhaust manifolds
1g turbo stock (on manuals only, not the auto's)
1g head

Multiple other things but those always start debates.
IE: Which one looks better on the outside and other things like that.


There's guys on here with 150k+ miles running 18-20 lbs and even more than that daily.
You won't have a problem as long as you boost responsibly and don't dog the car. So that won't be a problem.