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1g Clutch Pedal Removal/Install

So if don't know it already, the clutch pedal in the 1g DSM has been known to go limp with age. If you are suffering this issue then, this guide should help with removal of the clutch pedal assembly/core. It probably the least favourite job I have ever done.

This guide is re-posted from dallasdsm.org. I have fix the picture links and will be mirroring them soon so in-case they ever go down I can fix this.

Tools needed:
12mm socket
12mm wrench
Some extensions help out a lot
Pliers

I believe that's all you will need. But, may be mistaken.

Now, my pedal assembly cover/whatever you want to call it was already removed. I'm sure you can figure out how to remove that yourself. If not you shouldn't be doing this VFAQ.

First off we will disconnect the battery. Now, we will start by removing the steering colum. Start by unplugging all of the wires that run up to the steering wheel. Pictured here.

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Then we will removed four bolts that hold the column up. They are circled here.

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Then we will removed four more bolts circled here.
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Now, the steering column should drop to the floor. And we will want to get it out the rest of the way. (At lest I did, I didn't want it in the way while working under the dash. To get the steering column out the rest of the way there is a bolt circled that needs to be removed. *Note* pull this bolt all the way out.

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Alright, now that the steering column is out of the way we can start with the assembly. Start by removing these 5 bolts circled here.

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While down there you will have to disconnect the brake pedal from the master cylinder. There is a cotter pin holding this together. I can remove this by hand. Pictured here.

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Go ahead and unplug all of your brake and clutch pedal switches pictured here.

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There is also a little fuse box that needs to be removed. It's pictured in the left of the picture above.

Now there are two bolts straight up above the brake pedal that need to be removed. Pictured here.
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Over to the right, where the clutch master cylinder sits. There is one bolt that needs to be removed, circled of course. While over there you may was well disconnect the clutch master cylinder. I find it easier to un-screw the rod than to fiddle with the cotter pin holding this together.

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Can't forget the steering column brace pictured here needs to be removed. There are 3 bolts holding this on. All are circled.
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Ok, now we head out to the engine compartment. You will need to removed two nuts holding the clutch master cylinder on. Pictured here.

Pull the clutch master cylinder all the way out of the firewall. It should look something like this.
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Now, disconnect the brake fluid reservoir from the firewall. Bolts are circled of course.

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The brake master cylinder should pull out of the firewall. Pull this out as far as you can without breaking anything. It should look something like this.

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Now, you should be ready to pull the clutch pedal assembly out of the car. You'll have to rotate it around the speed-o cable. But, it should come right out. I rotated my counter clock-wise. Once you get it out it had better look like this.

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And here it the problem that everyone end up with.

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I tired welding mine. That doesn't work. Spend the $30 and get the kit from FP and do it right. It'll last you another 10-15 years.

Now all you have to do it replace the lever and bushings and put 'er back together. I hope this helps some people. Good luck.


*Note* I am not responsible for any thing you do to mess up your car. This is not a guide, it's a reference.
 
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