1g Clutch Job

[ZDA1728]

Hey guys I finally smoked my stock clutch in my 1g. Looking for a cheaper option as it is my daily and I don't need a crazy clutch setup at this time. Lot of mixed info out there so wanted to start a thread.

Specifically looking for info/user experience with exedy OEM clutch kit and Also comp stage3/4 or act2100/2600 as I am looking for a cheaper option. Also, this will be my first clutch job so if you guys have any tips that would be great. I will be doing it on jack stands with no trans jack. Will probably have to call a buddy to lift trans back in with me. I have basic handtools. What else should I be looking to purchase besides clutch kit, gearoil, rear main seal/gasket and oem TOB? I realize I may need to have other things replaced depending on damage upon inspection.

 

[sonicselli]

I have no experience with the exedy, so I will only offer some tips. As a job like this can be overwhelming its pretty easy especially if you have someone to help you put it back in. Remove sensor,cv axles&carrier bearing, 7bolts to tcase if I'm not mistaken, probably intake as well just to access bell housing bolts(don't forget the little one),slave, mount bolt, bam easy enough just make sure its supported throughout this process. Taking it out will require some maneuvering and more so to get it back in... With due to clutch and pressure plate pretty self explanatory, torque everything to spec!!! Tighten as you would a tire with opposing sequences. With the trans clean out the bell housing, IK often it is wise to replace the release fork. Caution!!! If you have no a/c remember to include spacer or washers behind carrier bearing where a/c bracket is supposed to mount to, I forgot this once and broke a bolt, almost would have had to pull engine because of this stupid mistake. Hope I'm not forgetting anything, good luck. Keep updates.

 

[828DSMs]

As sonicselli said it can be overwhelming but with some help it can be pretty easy only two things I will add is remove the shifter cables from the tranny. Also I have experience with the act 2100 I put it in my 1gb I got it with a street solid disk. I'd you don't mind a little chatter then go with the street solid but if you do get a sprung disk

 

[19gsx91]

I have a lift at my house and with the right tools it'll take me about an hour and a half to two hours to get the transmission on the ground, and about another 2 and a half hours to get it back together.. easily a one day job if you have all the tools and parts you need in front of you.

take your time, take pictures if you have to, don't miss that little 12 mm bolt on the backside of the engine because it will ruin your day very quickly. I'd look up jafromobiles videos, he has a how to on removing the transmission from his car and he'll point out a lot of things you might easily miss. (it is for a FWD car but everything applies except driveshaft and t-case if you are awd) Tomsturbogarage also has some very helpful videos, I highly recommend taking the time to watch those at least once or twice if you aren't comfortable at first.

Overall it might seem to be intimidating but it's not a big job if you take your time and pay close attention to what your doing.

and as far as clutch goes, I got an exedy stage 2 from ebay for my FWD laser and it was great for me, 30k miles and 2 owners later and it's still holding strong.

 

[lasershark]

Another quick tip... Bag and tag the bolts and nuts you remove. It may seem tedious and annoying but it will help you out for the first couple times.

 

[828DSMs]

Agreed keeping my bolts and nuts bagged and labeled helped me alot the first time I removed my transmission

 

[sonicselli]

And 2 bolts to the starter... passed my mind as well

 

[aviatorgeek]

Don't forget the transmission bolt that is above the tcase, its the only one that bolts in the tranny from the driver side. If you forget this there will be uneven pressure on your clutch/flywheel, as mentioned Jafro has a video on it. I've put 2 clutches in my 1g, the second being an OEM Exedy. No issues, as Exedy was the OEM supplier for Mitsu. Always use an OEM throw out bearing, replace the ball and fork, salve and master cylinders as a good measure. Also cant stress the importance of proper adjustment of the clutch master rod and clutch pedal. Jacks has a video on this too. Redline MT-90 is also the fluid you want to use. You will also need tcase fluid, the best way to "top it off"...fill as much as you can through the fill port, close it up and pour most of the fluid down the bearing side (the part that faces the rear driveshaft), then slide it on the driveshaft (try not to spill!). When the car is driveable the first time, take it around the block to test out your new clutch, then with the car level, take off the fill port and let the extra fluid drain. This will make sure your tcase is 100% full. Lasty check your pedal assy underneath the dash for play where the pedal lever meets the rod. These wear out and you will have excessive pedal play before the pedal starts to engage. Been there, done that.

The Exedy replaced a 2600 that was a major PITA to daily.