1999 GST-X Summer Convertible

[awdonlyalways]

Currently built...

Engine:
-2.3 stroked 6 bolt
-Eagle H beam rods
-un-cut 4g64 crank
-ARP high tinsle main studs
-ARP head studs
-Mahle 10:1 forged pistons
-Mahle tru-seal hi comp rings
-Block blasted
-Balance shafts eliminated
-6 bolt head
-Big port and polish job
-Kelford 280 cams
-Buschur racing 1mm oversized valves
-Buschur racing dual valve springs
-Buschur racing titanium retainers
-Ferrea Valve seal kit
-JMF Drag version sheet metal intake manifold
-JMF s90 70mm Throttle body
-ID 1000 injectors

Induction Related:
-Forced Performance HTA86 dual ball bearing turbo
-Tial Q blow off valve
-Custom manifold
-Precision 46mm Wastegate
-Custom dump tube
-Turbosmart dual stage boost controller with high/low boost

Drivetrain:
-ACT Race twin disc
-ACT prolite AWD flywheel

Handling:
-Lowered 1.5"
-Short throw shift

Safety:
-NHRA spec roll cage
-4 pt harness'


Far future mods are as follows.
-Tranny build
-4 spider diff
-Beefy axles
-Carbon fiber driveshaft
-4 Bolt LSD
-Coilovers with Cup Kit
-Big brakes
-Polyurethane bushings


For this journal, I'll document my progress on the car as far as the above mods go, but will document maintenance, parts, or other nick nacks found along the way. I don't have a time frame in mind, just that I'm slightly satisfied with my current setup. Feel free to comment or add your thoughts on my posts; I'm very open to opinions.

 

[awdonlyalways]

What a clip!!

Within 2 days, both my doors failed to unlatch, but was lucky enough to get in without a jimmy. So I opened up the door panel and sure enough the latching bar was unhinged from the handle.

You can see here, the plastic half of the clip snapped off.

My spare Probe GT was gracious enough to have a clips that fit the driver and passenger side handle control arm.

I find this clip superior then the existing ones, it even looks like a little hand!!


The passenger clip was good, but the reason why it wasn't working was because the handle control arm did not press down all the way on the actuator to release the door latch. Not wanting to pull it all apart just to make it perfect, I simply flattened the control arm a little bit with 2 pliers just enough so that top of the swivel was resting on the release actuator. I maybe bent it back 10 degrees.

After this, I attached the control arm, tested locking and opening the doors and zipped the panels back on. Now both doors work perfectly.

 

[awdonlyalways]

Heres another clip for anyone interested.

 

[awdonlyalways]

Radiator Fan Shroud and Fan Mounting

My previous custom down pipe came dangerously close to the ground, but in order to route it across the sub-frame, I had to make room and reposition the oem radiator fan.

As you, can see there was almost no ground clearance with it in place like this and on my roads, won't last very long, not very long indeed.

First step was removing the bumper and its stripped bolts. Then I measured my clearances from the top of the front support to the bottom, middle of the center, hood latch bracket, and my desired depth including the fans.

My measurements for the shroud were as follows:
From underneath the top support bar to the bottom of the frame was 12", and I wanted to mount the shroud to the very edge of the radiator. So I made the width to 12 1/2". Then I cut the corner pieces to size by way of eye ball. To cut the fan hole, I outlined the 10" fan with a pen on the cut sheet metal while fitting the cut corner pieces in. I measured the inside diameter of the fan and drew a circle around the center. Then I drilled a hole in the center and used sheet metal shears to make it easy.

Since, the corner piece was 1" deep, I had to cut each corner 1" to prevent overlap. Then I drilled 4 holes on each along side.

I wanted the fan shroud to sit as close to the radiator as possible, while never actually touching it. To do this, the right side of the shroud needed to sit on the very edge of the radiator, but the top, bottom and left side needed to be raised up a few millimeters. With a flat aluminum bar, I cut 3 10" sections and placed them in between the shroud and side edge.

After I determined it was all going to line up ok, I bolted it all together, using hammered flat shelving brackets to tighten the corners up.

Rudy stayed for awhile around this time.

Good dog. He can sleep around me hammerin, sawing, and drilling, but gets scared at a distant firework.

I then epoxy'd all gaps and bolts and gave it a couple coats of zinc, resistant primer.

All of the following was used in the making:
-16 1/2 inch stainless screws and bolts
-8 3/4 inch stainless screws and bolts
-50 pack of stainless washers
-Aluminum milled corner piece
-Aluminum flat piece
-Zinc sheet metal (wanted aluminum, but Home Depot didn't have a clue)

Fans:
Size LengthDepthWidth Airflow
CFMCurrent
Draw

12" Medium Profile Fan - Straight Blade - Push13.23"2.48"12.64"122713 Amps

10" Low Profile Fan - Straight Blade - Push 11.20"2.05"10.59"6496.5 Amps
-Bracket & strap kit 7.64 inches


To mount the fans, I used the strap kits to bolt directly to the side of the radiator. The 12 " fan bolted directly to the fan shroud, and the shroud directly to the top and bottom frame.
These fans from A1 electric were significantly cheaper then SPAL name brand, so I had no hopes for receiving the niceties such as extra bolts and strap tie downs. The bracket attachments would slide down on the fan, and they seemed to want to wiggle out with enough playing around. There were holes directly to the side of the bracket attachment, so I again hammered down some door latches or whatever they were and used 40 thread ct. 1" screws, which were actually 1/8 " too long with 1/2 " washers, so I snipped the excess.

Heres the complete finished product:

I was really surprised at how sturdy everything came out. That top shroud bracket fits directly underneath the top bar. The nut was a little difficult to get on there, but I don't see myself needing access to it very often and I used medium strength threadlocker to ensure its longevity.

I completed the pusher fan installation with the radiator mounted so to get the best possible precision on the shroud and mounting.

 

[awdonlyalways]

IC Piping and Cleanup

Now that the fans were out of the way, I could run my custom turbo down pipe over the sub frame. I ordered an ebay 2.5 " IC piping kit. The collection of 90/45 degree silicon fittings and straight pipes allowed me some trial and error room, but I really didn't need that much as the 90 degree pipes/fittings were sufficient enough.

I hadn't actually wanted to run the hump in the middle, but my radiator outlet tube was in the way.


The IC intake needed a single 90 degree fitting as seen below.

After I took this photo I put the bottom c-clamp further on the fitting so it overlapped some.

The IC outlet had no support and was relying on the throttle body clamps. For additional support, I bent a zinc angle bracket around a chisel and bolted directly on to the fog lamp screw hole (or whatever it was, I wasn't using it).

While I was finishing this part up, I decided to strip my spare Probe GT for some line supports, bolts, and funny nik naks. I found the power steering cooling line was prone to excess vibrations and rubbing up against the frame with the now rusted completely brackets that held it in place. The Probe's brake line support worked beautifully.

Now that everything was bolted back on and fitted, I wired up both fans to my existing radiator fan harness wires. The low (01) was soldered directly to my 10" 6.5 amp fan, while the 12" used the high (03) on connected via a relay and direct battery power draw. I used the 30 amp fuses between the relay and power.

I let the engine idle for 5 minutes, and the low fan turned on. Then I gave it a few successive revs, and the low actually turned off letting me know 12" fan was likely never to see operating status unless I hook my compressor back up, but I like the additional cooling potential anyways.

Thanks to 1990TSIAWDTALON for the relay advice.