1995 GSX Strip down & Wire Tuck for Racing Applications

[jw4free]

Well, I feel it's time to start my journal.

After 2 years, I have finally got the car back together and it runs.

Here is a list of electrical modifications.
Relocate Battery
Install Master Cutoff

Relocate fisible link to center console (under armrest cover)

Relocate relays to under dash support infront of ECM.
Alternator
Headlights
Taillights
Radiator (HI)
Radiator (LO)

Relocate Fuel injector resistor (where engine fusible link box used to be)

Reroute all wiring from left fender under radiator to engine fusible box.

Reroute wiring harness along firewall.

1G CAS 4wire connection

Delete Crank angle sensor
Delete Power steering pressure switch wire at ECM
Delete manifold differential pressure sensor at ECM
Delete A/C compressor signal at ECM
Delete Waste Gate solenoid controller
Delete EGR solenoid

Added one 10gauge central wire and spliced in all necessary engine hot wires.
Relocated engine grounds.

Delete all air bag wiring including computers under center console.
Delete all stereo, speaker, amp wiring

Delete Brake fluid reservoir wiring
Delete A/C and heater wiring
Delete Cruise Control wiring

Fuel Pump rewire
Custom radiator wiring harness
Custom Headlight, turn signal wiring harness
Custom Oil pump pressure sensor and signal wiring harness


First step with any extensive electrical project.....Purchase the year specific factory Service and Electrical manuals.

Second step....make a lot of spreadsheets. I have spreadsheets galore.

Third step...do the research. Nearly everything I needed to know was either posted on DSMtuners, or easily searched through GOOGLE, or in the Service manuals (though I did find some typo's along the way from all sources). Though one last nagging question remains regarding the Idle-up circuit (see my posts....anyone, anyone at all?).

I will break this all down and include pictures of the final product, because we've all seen the in-progress pictures of wiring chaos and it can become disheartening.

 

[jw4free]

Tools and Materials:

Waytekwire.com I'm not affiliated with them, but they seemed to have a good mailorder selection and I got most of what I needed in one bulk order.

Wire Spools 16 and 14 gauges (18 would have been a good idea instead of too much 14 gauge):
Red, Black, White, Brown, LT. Green, Blue (14 color choices) 250 ft. lengths.

Double row Terminal blocks (These sucked, I should have bought stud type junction blocks to connect 10+ AWG near fusible link.

Multilink ring terminals (Assorted 20-18, 16-14 - 5/16 stud size)

Delphi Packard Metri-Pack 280 series System of cable seals, male / female terminals, and connector bodies (Pretty bulky, I might recommend 150 series and sealed electric headers in hindsight.)

Weather-Pack Hand tool crimper.
Klein Tools Stock no. 517 (hand shears excellent all around tool for wires, heat shrink, tubing wrap and expandable sleeving)

Spiral wrap tubing - 1/4" tubing (also highly recommend 3/8", much better quality than auto parts junk)

Expandable sleeving - 1/4" (I have to confirm)

HI Torque Heavy Duty Mounts (for securing wiring harness w/ up to 1/2" cable ties)
Cable ties - Black

Polyolefin Heat shrink Kit - 3/16" (too small to be useful) to 1" sizes
Heat Gun Kit (way better than butate lighter)

Relays (from Advanced Autoparts, probably should have bought from Waytek in bulk)

Summitracing.com
Plastic Battery box with 25' of wire
firewall bulkhead
Master cutoff switch

There are more items and I will update after a proper inventory of materials on the car and tools acquired with pictures (waiting on my new phone w/ camera, crawling out of the dark ages).

 

[jw4free]

I took it out on Saturday after an overdue wash. I found out I wired the turn signals backwards (Just swap two pins in the engine bay). Hazards, and power windows and power mirrors work.

Oh, yeah and I realized I hooked up the manual boost controller in backwards. It pulled hard past 20-25 psi. Wow. This car is quick.

No carpet, nor interior panels, or rear seats make for a very loud interior. I could hear all the road debris getting kicked up by the tires.

Man I wish it was early spring. The drag strip is shut down for the season.

 

[jw4free]

I may call the harness different that the Service Manual

1. Instrument Harness (Attaches to the back of the Dash)
Delete: from Pass side to Driver's side
C-10 - Front Speaker
C-11 - Front Speaker
C-13 - Glove compartment light switch
C-12 - Glove compartment light
C-09 - Rear wiper and washer switch (optional, I have no windshield wipers, and don't race in the rain. Use rain X and drive faster to keep the rain off the glass)
C-08 - Defogger switch (optional, see above)
C-01 - Front Speaker
C-02 - Front Speaker
C-03 - Auto cruise control main switch
C-27 - Fog light switch (Optional- keep them if you like them - Mine were already gone, space behind the bumper becomes a premium depending on size of intercooler and piping.)

Keep
C-21 - Harness interconnect(Inst to Dash)
C-22 - Harness interconnect (Inst to Control:
C-07 - Hazard warning switch (Optional, nice to have, may need to relocate to repurpose section of dash (monster tach or gauges)
C-06 - Right side of Inst Panel
C-05 - Center of Inst Panel
C-04 - Left of Inst Panel
C-26 - Remote controlled mirror switch (Optional, nice to have item)
C-23 - Rheostat (Optional, dash light dimmer switch)
C-24 - I can't remember (More on this later)
C-25 - Harness interconnect (Inst to Body) goes outside the car under plastic fender well. I took the fender off to access and relocated inside the vehicle. Very important (More on this later)

2. Dash Harness (Lays on top of the dash core support
(Later)
3. Control Harness (from ECM to Engine Bay)
(Later)

Please PM me with comments, corrections, additional topics, etc.