1995 Eagle Talon Tsi ( eclipse body conversion)

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1995 Eagle Talon Tsi ( eclipse body conversion)


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Unfortunately I don’t have a garage or a shop to store my car for the winter. (Yet) Come spring I’m doing rust removal. Strut towers are solid just some paint cracking and surface rust. My big concern is the wheel wells in the rear, and underneath. In front of both rear tires the body has some vehicle cancer. I know you can usually find body panels, rocker panels, wheel well replacements, ect. For most cars. Is there any replacements I can buy? Or am I limited to finding a junk 2g and cutting them off myself? I REALLY don’t want to get rid of the car, and I’m determined to get it road worthy and cancer free. Any ideas of where to look would be much appreciated .

 

[pat white]

oh ....some of that looks nasty ...plus a wasp nest ?

 

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oh ....some of that looks nasty ...plus a wasp nest ?

Yea it’s pretty atrocious. has some new tenants that need to be evicted . Other than that it’s a pretty solid car. I’m skilled enough to be able to repair it myself. I do all my own work. Just didn’t know if other people had the same problem, and what they did to fix it. If it’s easier cutting the part off a donor car, or cutting out the rust, rust convert what’s left, and weld in new metal.

 

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It’s been awhile since I’ve posted. My car has been sitting the past 3 years. 3 weeks ago I was able to bring it to work and use our mulch tent. It was sitting until I was able to afford the new clutch and anything else it needed. Life happened and got in the way. Long story short I’ll be posting updates of everything. From it being neglected for years, to ready to terrorize the streets . I’m new to the dsm community so any feedback is appreciated!

 

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I didn’t take many pictures of disassembly. As you can see my clutch decided it didn’t wanna be a single piece anymore. Luckily it broke it a way that none of the friction surfaces were damaged. It actually didn’t damage anything! It was a ACT 2600 with unknown miles. My brother in law recently traded his Evo X MR for a built 95 GSX. Along with the trade he got extra parts that I bought of him. I got a practically new 2600 disc and pressure plate. 6 bolt flywheel. A 2g Fluidyne radiator and slim fans. A black oem mitsubishi steering wheel. And black oem driver seat ( in market for passenger side) a Carbon Fiber hood. 4 new 245/45r18 pirelli tires and a few other goodies. I bought new redline trans fluid and oem radiator fluid from STM($30 for 1 gallon) upon tear down I found my m8x60 bolt under my starter( the only one that bolts INTO the trans) missing. A few days before my clutch went it would jerk harshly in reverse. I think the bolt came loose, and caused my clutch to snap because of the extra play. And because my dumbass rushed, I forgot to check the clutch fork position. Didn’t notice it until my car was almost back together. So..... I wasn’t about to rip it back out. I took a washer and cut a hole just enough for a bolt to slide through. And welded on some 0.030 welding wire as a handle. I loosened the pivot ball, slid in the washer and clamped it down. Pulled off the welding wire and was very amused as my intoxicated idea worked. Instead of ripping out the tranny, I did some surgical work through that little clutch fork window. Now the fork was sitting slightly to the drivers side from center. Next I adjusted my clutch pedal and slave.

 

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From sitting so long I saw the condition of the fuel injectors. I knew I had to rebuild the o-rings. I bought a “rebuild” kit for my FIC 750cc. I also later found the O-ring from my fuel rail to my return line was leaking. After that I wanted to do an oil change before I tried to fire it up. I have a 6 bolt, and the previous owner threw in a 2g oil filter( skinny and longer) and it’s VERY close to my 3” downpipe. So I bought a 1g oil filter(shorter and fatter) and put in 4.5 quarts of VR1 20w50.