The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1600cc, needs over desire

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yes, now it seams that I'm back weighing the benfits vs. issues w/ these large injectors again. Several people on the dsmlink forum have had great drivability success w/ this size. But now I'm seeing guys here that are running into the tuning incriments issue that at first I suspected but put to rest w/ my research... I wonder how some have gotten a good tune and some have had their tune fall into the 0.5% adjustment range where 1% one way is too much but not enough if you leave it. Well, I could always add another stage of injectors when the time comes...
 
I think some peoples idea of good driveability is not really my idea of good driveability. I consider good driveability the ability to start on demand(whatever the outside temp)idle under 1500RPM,and have good throttle response and fuel economy, even closed loop emissions. While big injectors can be street driven I don't like giving up the good for the bad. One reason I run staged injection. Also the secondary injector position(in the manifold) seems an important issue for driveability.
 
I just tried a set of FIC 1600S and I hated them. Could'nt them to idle and drive just right, but top end was great. I've wasted about 8 gallons of c16 trying to get them right got them close but not like my 1000s.
dsm-onster wrote

" Fortunately we have resistor packs and can swap it out for a set of lower impedance resistors to counter the higher impedance of the FIC 1600s "

I would like to know more about that.
Lee
 
Couldnt you just get a wet of 950's or whatever you feel like. and if you ever start flirting with the limits of them add a secondary injection system with another set of 950's? this would keep drivability and give you plenty of fuel when you need it?
 
I wouldn't attempt to run 1600's unless you have a standalone and control over your injector pulse width. Also I run a base fuel pressure of 25 psi.
As far as drivability, it depends on your tuning.

Another tip for saving C16... I do all my base tuning off 93 pump, then switch to C16 when I am ready for serious boost. Your timing plays the biggest factor in fuel octane requirement, so just use moderate timing until dumping in the blue juice.

I have had no problems with my set of 1600's from FIC.
 
Which standalone are you running? I'm using dsmlink to tune with but still they won't idle and drive like I'm use to. With the 1600s in there I really hated to drive the car it would stumble, stall etc. My 1000s ran like stock. I'm out of injector and don't have many choices to chose from. Thanks for the tip. But it's a LOT more to it than timing, total different tune on 93 than on 116 not even close.

Lee
 
I am running a TEC II. I also have a TEC3r I am going to upgade to after building an entire new harness for the car. I have no experiance with a DSMLink and have no desires to screw with a factory ECU or firing system. I no longer run a cam angle sensor(its only there to plug the hole) and use a fabricated crank trigger system. I assisted Electromotive in developing a DSM specific unit 5 years ago. Mine has since been modified from their final off the shelf design. Also I have no need for a resistor pack or other factory components.

I have the ability to run a minimum injector on time of 1.00 milliseconds, my TOG(Time On for one Gama) is 5.75 milliseconds and injector recovery time 1.2 milliseconds. With those basic injector parameters I was able to get the car to idle at 1050 RPM @ 58KPA on many sets of different cams including HKS 272/272 using the 1600cc injectors. To get the car to motor around with out kicking and sputtering, I had to play with the TPS/MAP blend configurations, but it was doable. I put 500 miles on the car last year just driving around town and got around 13 MPG, not bad IMO for regulated garden hoses. To get the car to pick up at low engine speeds(under 4500 and <10psi) I typically run between 36-42 deg timing even on 93.

I have had no severe problems going from pump gas to C16. Ofcourse it requires more tuning, but my fuel chart changes very little(1-5%).
 
I almost went AEM, even knowing I would have to install an unmolested 1G engine harness. The Electromotive coils are great, but plug wires are driving me nuts(the damn boots keep coming off) and at the time I didn't know how to utilize a COP with the TEC units. Then I heard from another reputable person in my area using one that the timing drifted utilizing the factory CAS. After that and discovering the TEC3r would run COP I decided on purchasing it. Also I am already familiar with the software, the only major change is more options and expanded fields :)

Again congrats to you new ET... maybe I'll catch up one of these years.
If its not too touchy of a subject PM or email me some info about your stall converter and its street manners.

Paul
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top